July saw the annual Regional Wines and Spirits Emerson’s
Masterclass. As with past years an exciting array of beers not normally available
to the public were served up to those lucky enough to secure tickets. This year
Richard Emerson opened his ‘cellared library’ of recent Brewers Reserves giving
us all an entertaining insight into how brewers Richard, Father O’Leary, and
Jim formulate recipes in the interest of product development, and experimentation.
Through the 3 tastings it also became clear that sometimes fortuitous mistakes
in the brew house can result in fantastic beer.
We started the tastings with M’Lord Mild, the current Brewers
Reserve. Brewed as a new world twist on the traditional English mild ale style,
Richard wanted to prove that Bookbinder wasn’t a one hit wonder in the realm of
session beer. Richard told us about the Torrified Wheat that he added and the
nutty flavour it had imparted to the beer. He also talked of the trial hops
that he used which gave M’Lord a fresh hoppy note on the palate.
Next up was Gallifrey Pale Ale, known within the brewery as
Chico Pale Ale after the American yeast that was used to ferment it. Brewed
with hops that were left over from the APA which is sadly no longer brewed,
Gallifrey was packed with a fruity resinous hop character. Citrus and tropical
aromas gave way to a firm malty palate and a firm bitter finish.
With the Harvest Ale we were onwards into unknown hop
territory. Brewed just after the Hop Harvest with hops that were fresh from the
kiln, Harvest Ale was packed with unusually fresh zingy hop aromas and
flavours. Hops are usually rested after they have been kilned in order to let
all the volatile flavour and aroma compounds relax, using them without resting
them results in very unusual hop characters forming in the finished beer.
Harvest Ale had a big green hop aroma displaying loads of tangy passionfruit,
citrus and an almost tomato plant like note. In the mouth the fruit salad of
hop flavours continued all balanced by a supporting malt ‘cushion’.
With Very Brown Ale things started to get darker. Brewed in
the American Brown Ale style with loads of new world hop aroma and flavour
alongside the rich chocolaty malt profile, Very Brown Ale reminded a few ex-pat
Americans in the attendance of the sort of beers they missed from home.
Hoppy Porter entered new territory blending a chocolaty
smoked malt character with strident New Zealand hops. Hoppy Porter
presented with a massive aroma of fruity New Zealand Hops, Richard told us he
was aiming for Emerson’s Pilsner with ‘shades on’! In the mouth the beer was
roasty and smoky from the use of both dark and smoked malts. The over all
perception was of a complex although slightly thin beer. The Emerson’s brewing
crew had been so taken with the beer that they had decided to give the recipe
another go in the near future with an eye to giving it some more body.
After Hoppy Porter we tasted the recently altered Emerson’s
Porter recipe with a mind to comparing just how different two porters could be.
Smooth chocolaty and rich, Emerson’s oldest brand tasted fantastic. Richard
told us that since the decision had been made to drop the Oatmeal Stout from
his range, they had been blending the processes and recipes used in the
production of the beers to achieve one solid regular dark beer.
Next up we were to compare 2 versions of Old 95, one the
standard young Old 95 , the other a variant called Old Cascade. Old Cascade
came about when assistant Brewer Jim accidentally forgot to add the hops to the
end of the boil, in an attempt to save the situation the hops were added ‘dry’ to
the fermentor. Richard told us about the volatile hop compounds which make up
the hop flavour and aroma of a beer, when the hops go into the kettle many of
these volatiles are driven off in the boil, however when the hops are added
‘dry’ after the boil has finished these volatiles are retained. The difference
in the aroma and flavour of the two beers was significant. Old Cascade
presented with a massive floral, tropical nose while the standard Old 95 had a
less pronounced citrus hop aroma with hints of warm malt. In the mouth the Old
Cascade was mellow and rounded with more of the complex tropical notes that
were in the nose, the Old 95 on the other hand was a full caramel malt
character and a pronounced long bitter finish. The Old Cascade was a deserved
winner across the 3 tastings.
Finally we ended on this years JP. Richard brews a different
Belgian style beer each year to commemorate the life of Jean Pierre Dufour the
Belgian brewing scientist who ran the food science department at Otago University.
This years JP was brewed as a strong Belgian Dubbel. This years JP is a strong
rich dark ale spiced with star anis and brewed with the same Belgian yeast that
the first JP in 2007 used. It was agreed that this years JP needed a little
time in the bottle in order for it to round out. The combination of the star
anis and the Belgian yeast had created a mint flavour that along with the big
warming alcohol notes would round out as the beer aged.
Results across the 3
sessions.
|
M'Lord
Mild
|
15
|
|
Gallifrey
Pale Ale
|
22
(equal 3rd place)
|
|
Harvest
Ale
|
32
(2nd place)
|
|
Very
Brown Ale
|
21
|
|
Hoppy
Porter
|
22
(equal 3rd place)
|
|
London Porter
|
15
|
|
Old
95
|
10
|
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