Drouhin 2003 White & Red Burgundy With 2002 Chablis Grand Cru

By Raymond Chan

This was our first look at the 2003 white and red burgundies from one of the leading producers. Earlier tastings of the wines from the hot and dry 2003 vintage had yielded favourable results, the red wines being bright in fruit, but at the darker end of the berry flavour spectrum. However the 2003 wines were also without any real deficiencies. Certainly wines that were from the lower and upper levels both performed well, surprisingly, as reports had indicated that while the lesser wines showed well in a ‘New World' sense, and that there was the a loss of terroir expression, especially at top end Premier Cru and Grand Cru level. But at this tasting, the additional question was asked: Would the combination of the hot and dry 2003 vintage and the more delicate, ethereal and ‘feminine' house style from Drouhin work together?

Our tasting of whites and reds from Drouhin was preceded by a pair of 2002 Grand Cru Chablis wines from the same house. 2002 has been judged outstanding for all of Burgundy and in Chablis as well. Following are my notes on the wines tasted. They were presented blind within the known flights.

Flight One: 2002 Chablis Grand Cru

Two classic Chablis wines, one coming ready to drink, the other with the ability to improve. The two were generally equally preferred by the group.

13.0% alc., domaine wine, from 14 ha, one of the lesser Grand Crus, producing ‘softer, sweeter' wines. Straw yellow with some depth, lighter edge. Light, shy nose, but with rich fruit underneath, some oak noticeable. Restrained richness on the palate with minerals and typical Chablis ‘flintiness'. There is power and depth here. Overall, the wine has a soft accessibility. Open and approachable, but with good fresh acidity still. Well-regarded wine. 18.0-/20

13.0% alc., domaine wine, from 15 ha, one of the best sites, producing round, rich wines. Light, pale straw colour. Intense nose with strong mineral aromas with ripe stonefruits underneath. Some SO2 which clears with air time. Tight and steely on palate, classic Chablis flintiness with stonefruit flavours. This is still very youthful and has potential to integrate and develop more richness. 17.5+/20

Flight Two: 2003 White Burgundy

A flight of white burgundy in the broader, or more powerful style. Three very diverse wines, but all with good acidity and none showing excesses of alcohol or heat. Fine wines, in fact.

13.5% alc., domaine wine, from the 25.18 ha site on the Pommard side, 12.6 ha planted to Chardonnay on the upper parts. Straw yellow colour with a pale edge. Full, powerful nose, quit fat and dense with rich tropical fruit flavours and mealiness. There is a high oak content here. Full and weighty, fat, dense and powerful, this is rich and oaky. A very solid wine, chunky even. Here the fruit and oak more in balance. Excellent length, this will age well. The second preferred wine of the flight by the group, and picked to be either the Beaune Blanc or Meursault. My score 18.0+/20

13.5%, domaine wine, from 71.88 ha from Corton hill. Very even, pale straw yellow colour. Quite delicate on the nose, shy. Very attractive acacia florals and nuances of spice. Very fine textured palate with steeliness and minerality. Excellent depth and intensity combined with immense refinement. The acidity is perfect, and the wine is one of great balance. There is an underyling richness and power, and warmth, but the fineness is remarkable. The most preferred wine of the flight by the group and picked by most to be the Corton-Charlemagne. My score 19.0/20

13.5% alc., negociant wine, from the 13.72 ha vineyard on the Puligny-Montrachet border, Perrieres regarded the best of the Meursault 1er Crus with raciness and elegance. Full, even straw yellow colour, a little golden hue. Full, soft, broad nose of nuts and yellow fruits, but with style. Quite elegant and fine-grained, with lovely balance, mellow in fact. Medium weighted with soft, rich nutty fruit flavours, benchmark purity. No blockbuster, and with real beauty. The least preferred of the flight, and evenly picked as Meursault or Beaune Blanc. My score 18.5-/20

Flight Three: 2003 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

Two wines from Puligny, showing the classic racy firmness and mineral, floral and nut amalgam. Again, with the style of freshness and balance, and no lack of acidity or elegance that might have occurred as a result of a torrid vintage.

13.5% alc., negociant wine from the 17.56 ha site producing wines deemed most ‘typical' of Puligny. Brilliant pale straw colour. Very fine, intense and minerally nose, lovely aromatics, enhanced by some new oak. Some SO2 also. Dry, refined, tight and steely on palate with minerals and florals. Excellent depth and substance here, with a roundness and softness on mid-palate. Some alcohol noticeable. Solid and rich finish o the palate. The lesser preferred wine of the two, but identified evenly as either Folatieres or Pucelles by the group. My score 18.5-/20

13.5% alc., negociant wine from 5.13 ha, the best 1er Cru bordering Batard-Montrachet and Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet. Pale straw colour with some green hues. Very refined, delicately pure and subtle aromas of minerals, nuts and florals. An intense delicacy of aromatics. Palate reflects the nose with sheer finesse and refinement, yet with wonderfully proportioned richness and freshness from the acidity. Mouthwatering with its clarity and purity of fruit. So subtle, this could be interpreted as dilute by some. The preferred wine of the flight, but not identified as the Pucelles. My score 18.5+/20

Flight Four: 2003 Cote de Beaune Red

A flight of very well made wines showing ripe fruit and aromatics, generally in the soft red fruits. The Corton was the bigger wine as expected. Of the two Beaunes, the Clos des Mouches showing more winemaker input.

13.0% alc., domaine wine from the 25.18 ha site regarded as a ‘flagship' for Drouhin. The wine includes a small percentage of Pinot Gris! Deep ruby red colour with a garnet edge. Full, solid, deep and dense nose with full soft red fruits and berries with noticeable oak. Quite youthfully hard and a little raw and even ‘green' at this primary stage. F