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Wine Review

German Riesling 2004

By Raymond Chan
This was our second look at German Rieslings from the typical, but very good 2004 vintage. Following the hot and dry 2003 vintage, 2004 saw wines displaying floral, mineral and apply aromas and flavours, and wines that possessed noticeable acidity. They certainly do not leap out of the glass, nor do they have great fruit weight or breadth, but they are models of elegance and freshness. They should keep well.

This tasting looked at a broader spread of wines than usual, from five different producers, all well respected, if not among the most highly regarded in Germany. From the Nahe region, there were two wines from Hermann Donnhoff. From the Saar, we had a wine from von Hovel and three wines from the great Egon Muller. And from the Mittel Mosel, three wines from Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt and four from Fritz Haag.

The tasting was designed around three flights, the first being five different Kabinett wines. Second were the three E. Muller wines of different Pradikat levels, and thirdly, four F. Haag wines of differing Pradikat levels. All of the wines were served ‘single blind’, the order within each flight randomized, though the theme known. Following are my notes on the wines in the order of presentation:

Introductory Wine


Donnhoff Riesling QbA 2004
9.5% alc. Very pale straw with slight green hues. Some SO2 over minerals, florals and apples on the nose. Slightly sweet, again some SO2 present, but good body and depth, with fresh acidity. Quite crisp, with more linear flavours and not quite the nuance. Good length. Straightforward Riesling and good with it. 17.0-/20

The Kabinett Wines


A diverse group of wines from very different sites and areas and from three different producers. There seemed no similarity between the three von Kesselstatt wines, nor did the Nahe or Saar wines show their distinctive regional traits clearly. Only the Wehlener Sonnenuhr showed typical delicacy and elegance as expected.

von Kesselstatt Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2004
8.5% alc. Very steep, rocky site with blue-grey slate. Pale straw yellow with green hues. Very clear and pure nose, elegant aromas, very delicate and finely expressed florals. Slightly sweet, sheer lacy, delicacy and finesse on palate, florals predominant. Excellent acidity, with excellent depth, all in proportion. Racy and long on the finish. The most preferred wine of the flight by far for the group of tasters. My score 18.0/20

von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 2004
8.5% alc. Stonier soil and more open terrain in the Saar contribute to the lightness of Saar wines. Pale straw yellow with green hues. More punch on the nose, but with steely aromatics. Fine, crisp, intense and minerally. Coolish green notes and some SO2. Slightly sweet, quite full and solid with depth, density and weight on palate. Softer on palate, some roundness. Not quite the nuance in this. Second least preferred by the group. 17.0+/20

von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett 2004
8.0% alc. Powerful wines can come from this amphitheatre-like site. Pale straw yellow with some green. Good deep nose with a soft, but solid core of yellow florals. Riper aromas. Slightly sweet, the acidity is pronounced, leaving the wine less rich than the other wines in the flight. Quite steely, the fruit is less rich. The palate is carried somewhat by the acidity. But there is great length. The third preferred of the flight by the group. 17.0+/20

von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett 2004
8.5% alc. The Hutte site in the Saar is owned in entirety by von Hovel, producing wines more delicate than Scharzhofberg. Pale straw yellow with slight green hues. Very pronounced nose, cool blackcurranty aromas, deep and solid, with a sulphide amalgam. Slightly sweet, full and solid on palate with blackcurranty fruit and some sulphide. Not as rich on the palate, the acidity is prominent. The least preferred of the flight by the group. 16.5-/20

Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2004
8.0% alc. The Leistenberg site is on the right bank of the Nahe as the town of Oberhausen, lighter and racier wines than the left bank sites. Pale straw yellow with green hues. Very delicate, soft nose, with ripe floral aromas. Slightly sweet, this has a degree of richness and lusciousness. Fullish, but balanced, with excellent acidity, there are lovely fine textures and substance. Real poise to the wine. The second preferred wine of the flight by the group. My score 18.0-/20

The Scharzhofberg Wines of Egon Muller


Three wines from one of Germany’s great producers. Egon Muller has 7 ha in Scharzhofberg, and produces around 4,200 cases annually. The Scharzhofberg wines are renowned for their great elegance, essential steeliness and pronounced acidity. Here the wines had immense presence, more so than the rest of the wines in the tasting. Sulphur levels were high, but not to dampen the fruit. All three wines seemed to have the potential to show considerably more with bottle age.

E. Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese 2004
7.5% alc. Pale straw yellow with green hues, light edge. Full and substantial on the nose, rich floral and honey notes, botrytis, soft, full and layers of aromas unfold. Very rich and sweet, quite luscious, but with perfect acidity to prevent any cloying. Somewhat disjointed and still to come together. Lovely textures and weight giving slight grip, but absolutely fine. The fruit depth is enormous and there is great presence. Honey, tropical fruits and passionfruit show. But there is restraint and style. A rawness still and the potential is obvious. This just builds with time in the glass. Easy to underestimate what has been built into this wine. The concentration in this wine is phenomenal. Initial score 18.5/20, but with air time 19.5-/20

E. Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 2004
9.0% alc. Pale straw yellow colour, even, some green hues. Very fine, tight and crisp nose, pure flint and mineral. Some SO2 showing, but the fruit comes through. Dryish on palate, again some SO2, but the fruit is tightly bound. There is depth and a little grip from the fruit extract. Crisp and racy from the acidity. This is just waiting to develop richness. 17.5+/20

E. Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese 2004
8.0% alc. Brilliant green straw-yellow colour. Classic, cool and steely, minerally Riesling aromatics, a little blackcurrant and exotic musk componentry, great depth and concentration to the nose. Slightly sweet, luscious and juicy fruit flavours on attack. Still tight and dense on middle palate, with fabulous depth and concentration. Flavours unfold in the mouth and the potential to develop is obvious. The acidity gives perfect balance and contributes to the precision and poise. 18.5+/20

The Brauneberg Wines of Fritz Ha

The Products...
E MULLER SCHARZHOFBERG AUS 04
E Muller Scharzhofberg Aus 04
E. Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese 2004 7.5% alc. Pale ...
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DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

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