New Zealand Pinot Noir 2004

By Raymond Chan

Pinot Noir has consolidated its position as third most planted variety after Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The 2006 projected estimates have Martinborough with 435 ha or 55% of the region's area planted to Pinot Noir. It is the Martinborough region's most planted variety. Nelson has 160 ha, 22% of the total area, Pinot being the second most planted variety. Marlborough has 1390 ha, 13% of the region's area, Pinot Noir being the second most planted variety. Canterbury and Waipara has 320 ha, 36% of the area planted to Pinot Noir and is the most planted variety. And Central Otago has 850 ha, 74% of the area planted, Pinot Noir being the most widely planted variety.

Following last year's tasting of super-premium Pinot Noirs from the successful, but small vintage of 2003, it was deemed important to repeat the exercise with the 2004s at Regional Wines, and it was from the above regions that the 20 wines reviewed in this report come from.

The 2004 vintage could be generalized as one with vigorous growth eventually resulting in high yields. Quality oriented Pinot Noir producers needed to manage the vines carefully as well as drop crop to keep yields to a low quality-focussed level. If the country could produce a broad range of good wines across the different regions in a vintage such as this, then it could be argued that we have come much closer to handling the variety with success! Certainly the 2004 wines overall lack the depth and concentration of the 2003s. However, many commentators have found the soft red fruit characters more representative of true varietal character.

This tasting put together a ‘selection of leading labels' presented blind and randomized with regards to area in order to determine quality and investigate if regional style was prevalent. It was noted that it was difficult to limit the selection to only 20 labels, as the number of exciting wines and labels is growing very quickly. Following are my notes on the wines as presented. I have noted how each wine was ranked in preference for each flight by the group and given my own score as well.

Flight One

14.5% alc., fruit from the Taylors Pass vineyard in the Awatere Valley. 11 months in 20% new French oak. Deepish ruby red colour with purple hues. Fresh, bright cherry and strawberryish fruit, with a slight stalkiness on bouquet. Fresh and crisp on palate with bright cherry/berry fruit flavours. The acidity is lively. Fruit is still tight and bound. Well-balanced extraction with moderate tannin grip in the mouth. Still primary and relatively simple. A pretty wine to many tasters. The second least preferred of the flight for the group. My score 17.0+/20

14.5% alc., fruit from 65% Bendigo Estate, 28% Thompsons and 5% Pisa Range Estate vineyards in the Cromwell Basin area. 11 months in 24% new French oak. Deepish ruby red with a sloight garnet edge. Softer, lighter, less distinctive nose, minerally and steely. A hint of oxidation? Soft and full on palate, moderately expressed strawberry and cherry flavours, but with high extraction of tannins and a fully structured palate. Medium length finish. Fruit a little flat. Slight oxidation. The second preferred wine of the flight by the group. My score 17.0-/20

13.5% alc., fruit from 65% Te Muna Road estate, Cleland and Bunny vineyards the remainder. 12 months in 30% new French oak. Soft ruby red colour. Full, soft and broad on nose, with forest-floor complexities and a gaminess. Quite even and with a completeness to the nose. A fullish-bodied wine with good structure. Quite dry and reasonably firm through plenty of extract. Good depth to the wine.

Forest floor, game and savouriness showing, suggesting a wine that is forward. But there is complexity and interest here. A touch of austerity and dryness on the finish, though. Middle ranked for the flight by the group. My score 18.0/20

14.0% alc., 18 months in 50% new French oak. Deepish ruby red colour with purple hues. Bright, fresh and youthful nose with lifted cherryish fruits and florals. An elegantly structured wine with soft and gentle berry fruits, a sweet, mellowness, but with good extraction and weight. The fruit sweetness gives way to the tannin, resulting in a drying finish. The most preferred wine of the flight by far for the group. My score 17.5+/20

14.0% alc., fruit from the Omihi Hills vineyard, Waipara. 15 months in 30% new French oak. Garnet red colour with some orange hues on edge. A soft, full nose, with berried fruits, jam and some ‘funky'bretty components. Attractive aromatics. Soft strawberryish, coolish fruit alongside jammy characters. Up-front and obvious, but essentially lacking the fruit sweetness and richness. Firm, but fine tannins. The least preferred of the flight. 16.5/20

Flight Two

14.5% alc, fruit from the Northburn vineyard, Cromwell Basin. 10 months in 40% new French oak. Dark, deep, ruby red colour. A full and powerful nose with rich and deep, dark berried fruit aromas, ripe in expression. Excellent intensity and concentration. The richness, intensity and concentration is a feature of the palate. Tannins are fine and firm. There is an excellent balance of richness with texture here, and the fruit along with extraction combine to show power. Outstanding wine and the most preferred of the flight by the group. My score 18.5+/20

14.0% alc., fruit from Long Gully, Mansons Farm, Target Gully, Pipeclay Terrace, Ferris and Keillor vineyards in Bannockburn. 11 months in 30% new French oak. Lighter ruby red with slight orange on edge. Lighter, pinched nose with some greenness and a little stalk. Fruit is modest, and there is a touch of reduction. Slightly stalky with a coolness. However there is depth and richness to the fruit, some concentration even. Acidity is noticeable. Fine-textured tannins and some length. Jusyt not quite the ripeness expected. The second least preferred of the flight. 17.5-/20

13.9% alc., fruit from Duncan's Paddock, MV Home Block, Wharekauhau, McCreanor's and Moy Hall vineyards. 10 months in 35^new French oak. Lighter ruby red with garnet hues, especially on edge. Bright, fresh, cherryish nose. Pure, clean, ethereal, lifted with perfumes and florals. E