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Wine Review

Bouchard Pere, Joseph Drouhin & Louis Jadot White Burgundy 2004

By Raymond Chan
The 2004 vintage for white burgundy has proven to be a most useful one showing the typicity of the region, the individual terroirs and it has allowed the grape to express these characters without hindrance. After the torrid 2003 vintage and before the highly touted 2005 harvest, these wines have begun to show well. The vintage was one much kinder to the white wines than to the reds, and the good acidity levels providing a freshness to the wines.

This tasting looked at a range of Cote de Beaune white burgundies from three of the most respected houses based in Beaune. All three are significant vineyard owners as well as quality negociants. The Bouchard Pere & Fils firm has experienced a renaissance with its purchase by the Henriot Champagne house in 1995, and its reds and whites are receiving good press. The style emerging is one with a modern aspect. Joseph Drouhin has maintained its reputation as a producer of elegant, but traditional wines, some would say conservative. But finesse can be a virtue, and incoming oenolgist Jerome Faure-Brac will no doubt be keen to continue this style. The domaine of Louis Jadot is the source of some of the region’s most serious and complex wines. Winemaker Jacques Lardiere is legendary and all of his wines must be seen as important interpretations of their terroirs.

The tasting was conducted in Hawke’s Bay, with most of the attendees being winemakers, keen to see archetype white burgundy prior the nearing 2008 harvest. The wines were served blind in flights progressing from Meursault wines to premier cru Chassagne and Puligny wines then the grand crus of Corton-Charlemagne, Batard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, finishing with Montrachet. Following are my notes on the wines tasted:

Flight One: Beaune ‘Clos des Mouches’ & Meursault ‘Genevrieres’


Beaune’s ‘Clos des Mouches’ at 25.18 ha borders Pommard to the south. 12.8 ha of this is planted to Chardonnay on the upper parts of the vineyard, the wine is similar to Meursault, though can be more forward. ‘Genevrieres’, with 16.48 ha, produces opulent, lush and round wines. It is sited north of ‘Perrieres’, which borders Puligny-Montrachet.

Jadot Meursault 1er Cru ‘Genevrieres’ 2004
13.5% alc, Domaine Louis Jadot. Brilliant pale straw yellow colour. Nutty bouquet, slight oxidation, but tight and intense. Quite soft, full and broad on palate, a solid wine in structure and dimension, the flavours are nutty with oxidative notes. Good fresh acidity and medium length. Marginally the most preferred of the wines of the flight for the tasters. My score 17.0+/20

Bouchard Pere Meursault 1er Cru ‘Genevrieres’ 2004
13.5% alc, domaine wine. Very pale straw yellow colour with green hues. Very fine and tight on nose, great clarity of expression, some oxidative elements. Elegant on palate, this is fine textured and tightly bound. The palate is fresh and crisp with good acidity, and there is good power. Some alcohol warmth is noticeable. This will develop. The second preferred of the flight. My score 18.0+/20

Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos des Mouches’ 2004
13.5% alc, domaine wine. Light golden straw yellow colour. Soft and broad nose with tropical fruit aromas, nutty, oaky and a little reduction. A full, softish wine on palate, broad and rounder than the previous two. Not quite the depth or tight construction. But clean and fresh. Malo character noted by some tasters. The least preferred of the flight for the group. My score 17.5-/20

Flight Two: Meursault ‘Perrieres’


The best of the Meursault premier crus, more minerally and racy than other Meursaults. 13.72 ha, sited next to Puligny-Montrachet.

Bouchard Pere Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrieres’ 2004
13.5% alc, domaine wine. Very pale straw colour with green hues, brilliant. Very fine and intense nose, tight, powerful, nutty and minerally. Softish, fine textured palate, nutty flavours, with mineral notes. Very clean and crisp, there is good alcohol body and some richness, yet there is elegance from the acidity. The wine has depth and breadth and is one of balance and proportion. New World-like for many tasters. The most preferred of the pair. My score 18.5-/20

Drouhin Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrieres’ 2004
13.5% alc, not domaine wine. Straw yellow colour with light golden hues. Fine, tight and intense nose, some sulphides showing with minerals and nuts. Softer wine on palate, this is gentle, soft and accessible. Moderate nutty flavours with some oxidative notes. Some phenolic grip through the palate. The less preferred of the flight for the group. My score 17.0/20

Flight Three: Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru


Similar to Puligny-Montrachet, full, firm and racy, with a robustness. The ‘Morgeot - Clos de la Chapelle’ is a monopole lieux-dit on the southern side of the road and contains the Abbaye de Morgeot. The Marquis de Laguiche vines are in premier cru sites.

Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Marquis de Laguiche’ 2004
13.5% alc, Marquis de Laguiche. Straw yellow with light golden hues. Full and textured bouquet with breadth and volume. Nutty and waxy, almost lanolin-like, with oxidative nuances. Quite complex, with richness and bacon-like oak adding to the interest. Medium weight, this has soft, ripe tropical and mealy fruit that shows a lusciousness, along with the bacony oak. Yet there is elegance and fine textures. Alcohol and grip in the finish results in a dryness. The most preferred of the pair for the group. My score 18.0/20

Jadot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeots – Clos de la Chapelle’ 2004
13.5% alc, Domaine du Duc de Magenta. Straw yellow colour with some depth. Broad and rich on nose, solid and dense with nutty aromas, and some oxidative elements, giving a little coarseness. Full and rich on the palate, this has a cut which gives the palate a freshness. Complex nutty flavours with mealiness, the oxidation adds interest. Full and open in expression, with some style. The lesser preferred of the flight for the group. My score 18.5-/20

Flight Four: Puligny-Montrachet ‘Folatieres’


‘Folatieres’ is the largest premier cru of the commune at 17.65 ha. The wines are full and minerally, archetype of the commune. This flight one of two to compare the three producers across one appellation and vineyard site. Would house styles come through? And would the terroir be apparent in all three wines?

Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Folatieres’ 2004
13.5% alc, Domaine des Heritiers Louis Jadot. Straw yellow with light golden hues to the colour. Rich, complex nose with nutty fruit and mineral elements and toast oak. An intriguing, attractive, oxidative component. This is refined and excellent here. Elegant a
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DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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