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Wine Review

New Zealand Pinot Gris 2006

By Raymond Chan
The importance of Pinot Gris as a variety in this country can not be denied. Now with 1,081 hectares planted, it is the fifth most widely planted variety after Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Merlot. It has now overtaken Riesling in acreage. It accounts for 4.4% of the total 24,660 hectares planted in New Zealand. With a 56% increase in plantings in 2006 over the preceding year, a 42% increase over that in 2007 forecast and a 13% increase again for 2008, Pinot Gris is the second fastest growing variety after Sauvignon Blanc.

Pinot Gris is planted throughout the country. Here are the estimated 2007 figures:

Auckland 40 ha,  Marlborough 383 ha,  Waikato 2.1 ha,  Nelson 52.5 ha,  Gisborne 8.7 ha,  Waipara 57 ha,  Hawke’s Bay 232 ha,  Canterbury 33 ha,  Wairarapa 38.4 ha,  Otago 111 ha

Wine consumers are also finding favour with the variety. It fits in comfortably between Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay in style and good examples have proven to be versatile with a range of foods and cuisines. Categorised as an aromatic variety, Pinot Gris’ expression is decidedly subtle. Good versions have good weight and balance, and show spicy complexities over simple stonefruit characters.

The number of Pinot Gris labels has grown exponentially, and interest is high with the wine media. However, Pinot Gris has drawn a critical eye. The number of top examples is not many, and the majority of them are dilute or ordinary, if not well-balanced. The wine judging circuit is viewing the variety more critically, recognizing these deficits. If winegrowers and winemakers do not have high aspirations with the variety, then they should beware. Sales of Pinot Gris will not be automatic!

This tasting of 18 examples, all from the excellent 2006 vintage from throughout the country was a popular and well-subscribed one. The theme was to examine the variety from New Zealand’s differing wine growing regions as well as a general ‘health check’ for consumers. The labels chosen figure among the better-reputed, many having a good track record in wine competitions or with several well-received vintages behind them. My notes on the wines, served blind, in three flights of six, follow:

Flight One


Waipara Hills Waipara Pinot Gris 2006
14.5% alc, 4.0 g/L rs. S/S fermented, no oak influence. Straw yellow colour with a pale edge. Full, aromatic, stonefruit and pear nose, some tropical fruits, well-ripened. Sweet fruited from ripeness, pears and stonefruits again, full-bodied on palate with excellent acidity. The alcohol is noticeable. Good long finish. Regarded as a good and typical example of the variety. The second preferred of the flight by the group of tasters. My score 18.5-/20

Saint Clair Marlborough ‘Godfrey’s Creek Reserve’ Pinot Gris 2006
13.5% alc, 5.5 g/L rs. Brancott fruit, cool S/S fermented, partial MLF. Pale straw yellow colour with a pale edge. Very tight, fine, steely nose, intense and with some power. Some SO2 on nose. Dryish on palate, steely and crisp, very clean and powerful, excellent clarity and cut. Still tightly bound, this should develop well. The third preferred by the group. My score 18.0/20

Kumeu River Kumeu Pinot Gris 2006
12.8% alc, 9.5 g/L rs. Indigenous yeasts, no oak, 50% MLF. Pale straw yellow with a pale edge to the colour. Soft, full, fat nose, tropical fruits and pears, some sulphidic notes with MLF diacetyl complexing the bouquet. Off dry, this is soft and rounded on palate, with some broadness. The acidity is low, and gives the textures fullness and accessibility. Again, complexing MLF flavours and sulphide notes apparent, and disconcerting for some tasters. The least preferred of the flight. My score 17.5-/20

Gladstone Waipara Pinot Gris 2006
14.0% alc, 2.9 g/L rs. S/S fermented, a small portion in old French oak. Lees stirring post ferment. Pale straw yellow with a pale edge. Very fine, steely nose with florals and pears. Excellent aromatics. Dryish, the fruit giving a degree of sweetness, ripe fruited, pure, clear, crisp and steely even. Medium depth, and there is a little phenolic grip on the back palate. Good minerality. The second least preferred of the flight. My score 17.0-/20

Carrick Central Otago Pinot Gris 2006
13.5% alc, 6.0 g/L rs. Fruit from Cairnmuir Road, Bannockburn. Warmer ferment temperatures with some solids, 20% in old French oak. Very pale straw colour with a pale edge. Very full, fresh nose, cooler fruit expression with nectarine and herb elements. Dryish on palate, crisp, fine and elegant on palate. Medium weighted and in depth, with excellent balancing acid freshness. Very clean, clear and with good length, though a little linear in expression. The fourth preferred in the flight by the group of tasters. My score 17.5-/20

Astrolabe Marlborough Pinot Gris 2006
13.0% alc, 7.5 g/L rs. 87.4% Pinot Gris, 11.6% Gewurztraminer, 1% Chardonnay, from Wairau and Awatere Valleys. Mainly S/S fermented, a small portion on solids in old barriques with wild yeasts at low temperatures. 100% MLF. Pale straw yellow with a pale edge. Very full, rich and ripe nose with tropical fruit aromas, spices and pears add a degree of complexity. Slightly sweet, this is soft, rich and full on palate with florals, spices and pears. The acidity appears a little low, but this gives softness and fullness. Still an excellent backbone and very good length. A harmonious and decadent wine. Easily the most preferred of the flight. My score 19.0-/20

Flight Two


Coopers Creek ‘Select Vineyards’ Marlborough Pinot Gris ‘The Pointer’ 2006
13.5% alc, 7.4 g/L rs. Fruit from Omaka Valley, S/S fermentation in Auckland, no press cut, no MLF, two months on lees. Pale straw yellow colour with a golden hinted hue. Full, robust nose with plenty of ripe stonefruits, spices and tropical notes. Slightly sweet, this is full and solid on palate, the flavours of ripe tropical fruits are upfront. Palate has good acid freshness, but alcohol is noticeable, and results ina little overall coarseness with the size of the wine. Good length. The fourth preferred of the flight by the group of tasters. My score 18.0+/20

Esk Valley ‘Black Label’ Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2006
13.5% alc, 26 g/L rs. Fruit from Eskdale and Te Awanga, some botrytis. Pale straw yellow with a pale edge. Full, upfront stonefruit nose, some heat, less nuance. Medium sweetish, rich and luscious with tropical fruits, pears, honey and stonefruits. Excellent balance on palate, with power and depth and sufficient acidity. Medium length finish. A crowd pleaser and the most preferred wine of the flight for the group, though some tasters saw the style too sweet. My score 18.5/20

Gibbston Valley Central Otago Pinot Gris 2006
14.9% alc, 6.5 g/L rs. Bendigo and Gibbston fruit. Low temperature ferment in S/S. No MLF. Very pale straw yellow colour. Very fresh, clean, tightly bound pear aromas, but with excellent aromatic expression. Off dry, this
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DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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