The number of subtle and balanced,
very drinkable Syrah wines from Hawke’s Bay is increasing, complementing the
statement wines which show the excitement of this new-found variety. Whilst the ‘showy’ wines are indeed
magnificent with their depth, concentration and extraction levels, they require
cellaring to become approachable and enjoyable, especially in the context of a
meal. It is ironic that nature can force
the issue. The 2008 vintage in Hawke’s
Bay has resulted in Syrah wines of extraordinary suppleness, softness and
finesse. There is no denying the 2007s
are bigger, firmer, packed with more fruit, and will live longer, but the 2008s
offer much earlier gratification. They
are wines to drink while waiting for the 2007s (and maybe 2006s and 2005s) come
around. (Interestingly, the Bordeaux varietal wines do
not seem to show the same degree of variation.)
We offer two Hawke’s Bay Syrahs from 2008 that are delicious now and to
be enjoyed over the next few years:
Alpha Domus ‘The Barnstormer’ Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2008
As a relatively new entrant in the
Syrah stakes, Alpha Domus has had the benefit of looking at the development of
the various styles that is possible with the variety. The first release, the 2006 was a ‘toe in the
water’ which confirmed the value for the Ham family of proceeding with the
incorporation of the variety as part of the Alpha Domus portfolio. The 2007 release of Syrah was indeed a
noteworthy one earning critical press acclaim and a silver medal at the 2009
Royal Easter Show. The newly-released
2008 will be the last that blends contract Gimblett Gravels fruit with the
estate fruit grown in the winery vineyard in Maraekakaho Road. Winemaker Kate
Galloway incorporated the burgundian cold soak and fermentation
to 28°C with maturation in French oak resulting in a medium-full bodied wine at
13.0% alc. Medium deep, purple-hued ruby
red in colour, this has a pronounced floral bouquet complexed by dried herb and
charry oak notes, that resembles Pinot Noir.
The palate is relatively soft and gentle, moderately structured and has
restrained fruit that combines oak and fresh acidity in harmonious
proportion. Air time sees it reveal meat
and tar nuances. Indeed, it bridges the
gap between Pinot Noir and more full-blown examples of Syrah, such that it will
be a good accompanying Asian cuisine in addition to the expected Middle Eastern
and Mediterranean foods. Drink over the
next 3-5 years.
Craggy Range ‘Gimblett Gravels’ Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2008
Many wine lovers prefer Craggy Range’s ‘Block 14’ over the premium ‘Le
Sol’ Syrah, not only as the wine is around one-third the price and offers
nearly the same degree of character, but also because the wine is sweeter in
fruit expression and less structured, making it a more integrated drink. However, it is undeniable that ‘Le Sol’ will
keep better and ultimately be more complex.
The ‘Block 14’ moniker came about when winemaker at the time, Doug
Wisor, insisted on keeping the fruit of this foundation Syrah block separate. The wine proved so good that other blocks
were established on soils with identical profile, using the same ‘Heritage’
clone and 3309 and 101-14 rootstocks.
The 1.2 ha of ‘Block 14’ led to the expansion to 13 hectares of Syrah
planted. The 2008 ‘Gimblett Gravels’
Syrah incorporates the fruit from the other blocks, and maintains the style of
‘Block 14’, hence the name change. The
wine has a near-impenetrable purple hued black red colour, and a beautifully
aromatic nose packed with ripe black fruits, spices and pepper laced with
florals. At 13.7%, the wine is
full-bodied, but rounded in mouthfeel, despite the concentration and
extraction. The fine-grained tannins add
to the refinement and accessibility, and the fruit sweetness just adds to the
suppleness. The wine was matured for 18
months in 40% new French barriques and this is perfect for the fruit
richness. This will drink well over the
next 5-7 years, matching wild fowl, game and lamb. It is a serious 2008 vintage effort that has
the benefits of immediate drinkability.