By Raymond Chan
As this
country’s premier wine judging competition, the results of this event have high
credence among the wine industry players, the export markets and among wine
consumers who want to obtain and enjoy some of
New Zealand’s
best wines. The 2009 competition saw the
gold medal haul over the 100 mark, with 102 gold medals (6.16%) awarded, 215
silver medals (15.17%, and 387 bronzes (23.38%) from 1655 wines judged. This is slightly more in all medal counts,
indicating the increasing quality of the wines made here, as well as the recent
favourable vintages. There was almost
double the number of ‘Pure’ medals for sustainable wines awarded, 112 in 2009,
compared to 58 awarded in 2008, reflecting the greater achievement in
sustainability certification by the industry.
There were 19
golds awarded to Pinot Noir, 18 to Chardonnay, 13 to Sauvignon Blanc and 10 each
to Riesling and Syrah, showing how successful and established these varietals
have become. 7 golds each for
Gewurztraminer and Sweet wines prove our expertise with these difficult to make
wines. As can be expected, Marlborough was the most
successful region, garnering 41 golds, followed by Hawke’s Bay with 29. Central Otago
performed well with 10 golds As did Wairarapa/Wellington with 7 golds. It was pleasing to see great consistency in
the top producers, with Villa Maria, Pernod-Ricard and Saint Clair receiving
good counts of the golds. It was a most
pleasant surprise to see a small winery, from Martinborough build on its
success over the recent years with the trophy for Champion Wine of the
Show. Congratulations to Julicher Estate
for their Pinot Noir 2008!
Regional
Wines conducts a tasting of the top wines from the Air N.Z. Wine Awards every
year. It is interesting to see the
attendees reactions to the wines. While
most of the wines are appreciated for their quality, the styles of the wines do
not always find favour. It is a sign of our growing maturity that
wine enthusiasts feel confident in their own preferences. Another interesting observation is the
increasing accessibility of the top wines in quantities produced as well as
more affordable pricing. May these
trends continue. For this year’s tasting
there were 18 wines shown – all of the trophy winners. Following are my comments on the wines
tasted:
Introduction: Sparkling Wine
The Champion
Sparkling Wine was the Deutz Marlborough
Cuvee Blanc de Blancs 2006 (18.5+/20), 12.0% alc., 12 g/l rs, 100%
Chardonnay, on lees 3 years. Pale straw
colour, this was fine and delicately aromatic on bouquet, the aromas of
stonefruits, florals and yeasty autolysis showing. Dry on palate, this possessed a purity and
steeliness of minerally fruit with excellent bready-yeast flavours. Quite refined in expression, yet with
intensity of character and a richness.
The excellent acidity will ensure good aging over the next 4-6 years.
Flight Two: Aromatic Whites
A flight of
wines all sharing fruit weight and depth, all three impressive on palate
especially. First was the Champion
Sauvignon Blanc, the Catalina Sounds Marlborough
Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (19.0/20), at 12.5% alc., and 3.7 g/l rs, with 3%
fermented in oak. Pale straw in colour,
this had superb intensity of tropical fruits, passion fruit and subtle, but
definite pungent ‘sweaty’ notes on the nose.
The palate was dry and piercing with its depth, still tight and
concentrated, this possessed great line and length to its concentration. Everything was in proportion here. The 2009 vintage in Marlborough was a successful one. Then came the Champion Pinot Gris, the Couper’s Shed Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2009
(18.5/20), at 13.5% alc., and 13.24 g/l rs.
The fruit came from the inland Matapiro site, 35% wild fermented in old
oak. Straw yellow in colour, this had
shy, white stonefruit aromas, somewhat austere in expression. Slightly sweet on palate, this was richly
textured, being quite unctuous. Warm and
generous, the stonefruit notes were enhanced by subtle spice and warmth. This should show more over the next 2-3
years. Third was the Champion
Gewurztraminer, the Johanneshof
Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2009 (19.0-/20) at 13.0% alc. and 22 g/l rs,
from three sites with mixed clones, given some wild ferment and a little skin
contact. Pale straw yellow in colour,
this was relatively elegant on bouquet with pure rose water and Turkish Delight
aromas leading to more florals and spices with breathing. Medium sweet, the fruit concentration was a
feature and the tightly bound nature indicated some potential to unfold over
the next 4-5 years. Already there is a
lusciousness and oily texture providing real pleasure.
Flight Three: Rieslings
An excellent
group of Riesling wines, showing the diversity of style possible. With 10 gold medals awarded, this was a star
category at the show. First was the
Champion Riesling wine, the Esk Valley Marlborough
Riesling 2009 (18.5/20) at 12.0% alc. and 6.7 g/l rs, made from fruit drawn
from the Wairau and Awatere valleys, cool fermented using both inoculated and
indigenous yeasts. Youth pale straw
coloured, this had intense and tightly constructed lime aromatics. Dry on palate, this was a wine of power and intensity
with great fruit extract. Retaining
finesse and excellent acidity, the purity of the lime and floral fruits was
reminiscent of top Australian examples.
Next was the Champion Sustainable Wine, the Olssens ‘Annieburn’ Central Otago Riesling 2009 (19.0-/20) at 10.5%
alc. and 28 g/l rs, made from the older vines of the Central Block of the
estate Bannockburn
vineyards. Pale straw with green hues,
this had lush florals on nose with beautiful acacia elements lifting the
aromatics. Slightly sweet on palate,
there were flavours of florals, citrus fruits and a hint of honey, combined to
give an exotic twist. Excellent balance
achieved through the acidity present. An
outstanding wine. Final in the flight
was the Forrest ‘The Doctors’ Marlborough Riesling 2009
(18.5+/20), at 8.5% alc. and 44 g/l rs.
Fruit from the Conders Bend vineyard cool-fermented, this was pale straw
with green hues showing. Subtlety was
the feature here, with delicacy of florals and limes and the faintest honied
elements. Medium sweet, the pronounced
acidity prevents any cloying. This had a
beautiful delicacy, lending finesse and fine German spatlese style. This took the Champion Open White Wine
trophy. All three wines will develop
well over the next 5+ years easily.
Flight Four: Oak-Matured Whites