By Raymond Chan
As this
country’s premier wine judging competition, the results of this event have high
credence among the wine industry players, the export markets and among wine
consumers who want to obtain and enjoy some of
New Zealand’s
best wines. The 2009 competition saw the
gold medal haul over the 100 mark, with 102 gold medals (6.16%) awarded, 215
silver medals (15.17%, and 387 bronzes (23.38%) from 1655 wines judged. This is slightly more in all medal counts,
indicating the increasing quality of the wines made here, as well as the recent
favourable vintages. There was almost
double the number of ‘Pure’ medals for sustainable wines awarded, 112 in 2009,
compared to 58 awarded in 2008, reflecting the greater achievement in
sustainability certification by the industry.
There were 19
golds awarded to Pinot Noir, 18 to Chardonnay, 13 to Sauvignon Blanc and 10 each
to Riesling and Syrah, showing how successful and established these varietals
have become. 7 golds each for
Gewurztraminer and Sweet wines prove our expertise with these difficult to make
wines. As can be expected, Marlborough was the most
successful region, garnering 41 golds, followed by Hawke’s Bay with 29. Central Otago
performed well with 10 golds As did Wairarapa/Wellington with 7 golds. It was pleasing to see great consistency in
the top producers, with Villa Maria, Pernod-Ricard and Saint Clair receiving
good counts of the golds. It was a most
pleasant surprise to see a small winery, from Martinborough build on its
success over the recent years with the trophy for Champion Wine of the
Show. Congratulations to Julicher Estate
for their Pinot Noir 2008!
Regional
Wines conducts a tasting of the top wines from the Air N.Z. Wine Awards every
year. It is interesting to see the
attendees reactions to the wines. While
most of the wines are appreciated for their quality, the styles of the wines do
not always find favour. It is a sign of our growing maturity that
wine enthusiasts feel confident in their own preferences. Another interesting observation is the
increasing accessibility of the top wines in quantities produced as well as
more affordable pricing. May these
trends continue. For this year’s tasting
there were 18 wines shown – all of the trophy winners. Following are my comments on the wines
tasted:
Introduction: Sparkling Wine
The Champion
Sparkling Wine was the Deutz Marlborough
Cuvee Blanc de Blancs 2006 (18.5+/20), 12.0% alc., 12 g/l rs, 100%
Chardonnay, on lees 3 years. Pale straw
colour, this was fine and delicately aromatic on bouquet, the aromas of
stonefruits, florals and yeasty autolysis showing. Dry on palate, this possessed a purity and
steeliness of minerally fruit with excellent bready-yeast flavours. Quite refined in expression, yet with
intensity of character and a richness.
The excellent acidity will ensure good aging over the next 4-6 years.
Flight Two: Aromatic Whites
A flight of
wines all sharing fruit weight and depth, all three impressive on palate
especially. First was the Champion
Sauvignon Blanc, the Catalina Sounds Marlborough
Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (19.0/20), at 12.5% alc., and 3.7 g/l rs, with 3%
fermented in oak. Pale straw in colour,
this had superb intensity of tropical fruits, passion fruit and subtle, but
definite pungent ‘sweaty’ notes on the nose.
The palate was dry and piercing with its depth, still tight and
concentrated, this possessed great line and length to its concentration. Everything was in proportion here. The 2009 vintage in Marlborough was a successful one. Then came the Champion Pinot Gris, the Couper’s Shed Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2009
(18.5/20), at 13.5% alc., and 13.24 g/l rs.
The fruit came from the inland Matapiro site, 35% wild fermented in old
oak. Straw yellow in colour, this had
shy, white stonefruit aromas, somewhat austere in expression. Slightly sweet on palate, this was richly
textured, being quite unctuous. Warm and
generous, the stonefruit notes were enhanced by subtle spice and warmth. This should show more over the next 2-3
years. Third was the Champion
Gewurztraminer, the Johanneshof
Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2009 (19.0-/20) at 13.0% alc. and 22 g/l rs,
from three sites with mixed clones, given some wild ferment and a little skin
contact. Pale straw yellow in colour,
this was relatively elegant on bouquet with pure rose water and Turkish Delight
aromas leading to more florals and spices with breathing. Medium sweet, the fruit concentration was a
feature and the tightly bound nature indicated some potential to unfold over
the next 4-5 years. Already there is a
lusciousness and oily texture providing real pleasure.
Flight Three: Rieslings
An excellent
group of Riesling wines, showing the diversity of style possible. With 10 gold medals awarded, this was a star
category at the show. First was the
Champion Riesling wine, the Esk Valley Marlborough
Riesling 2009 (18.5/20) at 12.0% alc. and 6.7 g/l rs, made from fruit drawn
from the Wairau and Awatere valleys, cool fermented using both inoculated and
indigenous yeasts. Youth pale straw
coloured, this had intense and tightly constructed lime aromatics. Dry on palate, this was a wine of power and intensity
with great fruit extract. Retaining
finesse and excellent acidity, the purity of the lime and floral fruits was
reminiscent of top Australian examples.
Next was the Champion Sustainable Wine, the Olssens ‘Annieburn’ Central Otago Riesling 2009 (19.0-/20) at 10.5%
alc. and 28 g/l rs, made from the older vines of the Central Block of the
estate Bannockburn
vineyards. Pale straw with green hues,
this had lush florals on nose with beautiful acacia elements lifting the
aromatics. Slightly sweet on palate,
there were flavours of florals, citrus fruits and a hint of honey, combined to
give an exotic twist. Excellent balance
achieved through the acidity present. An
outstanding wine. Final in the flight
was the Forrest ‘The Doctors’ Marlborough Riesling 2009
(18.5+/20), at 8.5% alc. and 44 g/l rs.
Fruit from the Conders Bend vineyard cool-fermented, this was pale straw
with green hues showing. Subtlety was
the feature here, with delicacy of florals and limes and the faintest honied
elements. Medium sweet, the pronounced
acidity prevents any cloying. This had a
beautiful delicacy, lending finesse and fine German spatlese style. This took the Champion Open White Wine
trophy. All three wines will develop
well over the next 5+ years easily.
Flight Four: Oak-Matured Whites
A mixed
varietal flight, all three wines oak-influenced and full-bodied. All of these wines were stunning in quality
and style. First was the Champion Other
White or Rosé Champion Wine, the Church
Road Reserve Viognier 2007 (19.0/20), at 14.5% alc. made from 81% Triangle
and 19% Korokipo fruit 79% barrel fermented and aged in barrel for 3 months,
the remainder wild yeast fermented in tank with malo conversion. Pale straw yellow colour, this was full and
sturdy on nose showing excellent ripeness and volume with soft apricot aromas
and oak spices. Rich, powerful and
full-bodied, this was a wine with great presence in mouth, the apricot, citrus
zest and ginger flavours unfolding with air time. Next was the Champion Chardonnay, the Villa Maria Reserve Gisborne ‘Barrique
Fermented’ Chardonnay 2007 (19.5/20) at 14.0% alc, clone 95 and Mendoza
fruit from three sites, all barrel fermented with 70% inoculated yeasts, aged
10 months in 44% new oak, with 50% undergoing MLF. Bright straw yellow in colour, this had a
huge, rich nose, full and broad with ripe tropical fruits, mealy, nutty oak
with distinctive toastiness. A
mouthfilling wine, quite opulent, yet with freshness from the excellent
acidity. Fully worked, and with an
openness to allow immediate enjoyment. A
Meursault style that will keep well for 4-5 years easily. Contrasting the previous Gisborne wine was
the Champion Exhibition White Wine, the Villa
Maria Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay 2006 (19.0-/20), with 14.0% alc., made
from predominantly clone 95 with 1, 15 and Mendoza fruit from the Awatere and
Wairau valleys, all barrel fermented, partially with native yeasts, undergoing
MLF before 12-14 months aging in 43% new French oak. Straw yellow with golden hues, this exhibited
an intense white stonefruit and mealy, nutty nose with complexing sulphides on
a powerful, piercing palate. Very
European in style, and possessing real concentration and textures from the
fruit extract. Very Puligny-Montrachet
in style, and will cellar another 5-7 years.
Flight Five: Pinot Noir
The most
successful category at the show with 19 golds, 4 from the Wairarapa, 7 from Marlborough, 1 from Waipara and 10 from Central
Otago. Pleasingly, the judges rewarded a variety of styles as
could be seen from these three wines. First
was the Champion Open Red Wine, the Waipara
Hills ‘Southern Cross Selection’ Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5-/20),
at 14.0% alc., made from Bendigo fruit, aged 7 months in 30% new French oak. Bright ruby red in colour with purple hues,
the bouquet is redolent of bright red berry and cherry fruits, fresh and
vibrant, with good oak backing the nose.
On the palate, the bright berry fruits are prominent, lush and juicy,
the extraction soft and supple. This is
a fresh, forward style that will be good drinking over the next 3-5 years. Next was the Champion Pinot Noir and Champion
Wine of the Show, the Julicher Estate
Martinborough Pinot Noir 2008 (19.0/20), at 13.5% alc. made from mainly
Abel and 115 clones from Te Muna
Road, totally destemmed and aged 11months in 20%
new French oak. Deep ruby red in colour,
this was typical Martinborough with its full, broad, riper, savoury dark berry
fruit spectrum laced with spices and game nuances on the nose and palate. A wine of complex flavours, good body and
moderate extraction, the level of acidity will enable the wine to live well for
6-8 years. Next was the Champion
Exhibition Red Wine, the Georgetown
Central Otago Pinot Noir 2007 (19.0+/20), at 13.5% alc., fruit from a small
site at the Cromwell end of the Kawarau Gorge, owned by Ian and Marianne Dee,
the wine made by Duncan Forsyth of
Mt Edward. Warm fermented with native
yeasts, aged in French oak for 11 months.
Dark, deep ruby red with youthful purple hues, this had a firm and
intense nose of ripe, rich, dark berry fruits along with a steely, mineral
note. A wine with excellent
concentration, dense deep, exotic fruit still tightly bound, the tannin
extraction will see this wine develop well over the next 6-9 years. It is a pity it is all sold now.
Flight Six: Other Reds
A pairing of
‘other’ red wines. Syrah is
well-established and is judged as a class in its own right, and Tempranillo is
an emerging variety. The Champion Syrah
was the Coopers Creek ‘Select Vineyard –
Chalk Ridge’ Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2008 (18.5+/20), at 13.5% alc., made with
3.73% co-fermented Viognier, all of the fruit from south of Havelock North, the
wine spent 14 months in 50% new French oak.
Deep purple red in colour, the nose was packed with boysenberry and
other dark berry fruits with a little jam, pepper and spices showing. Medium to full-bodied, this had lovely ripe
dark fruits and liquorice flavours, a touch af floral lift, along with moderate
extraction and fresh acidity. The wine
is quite harmonious and is complete. The
Champion Other Red, the Trinity Hill
Gimblett Gravels Tempranillo 2008 (18.5-/20), at 13.0% alc., made from 87%
Tempranillo, 10% Touriga Nacional, 2% Malbec and 1% Viognier, all from the
Gimblett Gravels, was aged for 11 months in French and American oak. Dark,
deep, purpley-red, this had lovely sweet, ripe fruitiness of bouquet with dark
fruits, berries, jam and some confectionary hints. Full and quite opulent, plump and plumy, the
openness of the fruit was supported by good extraction resulting in good body.
Flight Seven: Bordeaux-Reds
Interestingly,
there were only 7 wines with golds in these classes, all from Hawke’s Bay. There has been much work with these varieties
of late to ensure full fruit ripeness, and avoidance of over-extraction. Leading the flight was the Champion Merlot,
the Villa Maria Reserve Hawke’s Bay
Merlot 2007 (19.0+/20), at 14.0% alc., this included 7% Malbec in the
blend, the fruit coming from 70% Omahu
Gravels and 30% Ngakirikiri sites, the wine aged 20 months in 75% new French
oak. Impenetrable black-hued red, this
was full of blackberry and dark plum fruit aromas along with floral nuances and
spicy oak notes on bouquet. Beautifully
proportioned on palate, the fruit is superbly varietal, but the oak is
powerfully expressed at present. Sweet
and lush, the richness is tempered by the serious, but refined tannins. Very long on the finish, this should develop
over the next decade. This was followed
by the Champion Cabernet and Merlot Blend, the Mills Reef ‘Elspeth’ Hawke’s Bay Cabernrt/Merlot 2007 (19.0/20), at
14.0% alc., made from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot from the Mere Road vineyard
in the Gimblett Gravels. 30% of the
fruit was wild fermented in ‘Integrale’ barrels, and the wine was aged 13-16
months in 20% new French barriques. Very
dark ruby red in colour, this was essence of Cabernet Sauvignon on bouquet with
aromatic blackcurrant and cedar notes. Reasonably elegant, this had the linear
depth of the Cabernet, with good fleshiness of plums from the Merlot. Fine tannins with suppleness, and good
acidity completed the balance. A wine of
harmony that will drink well over the next 6-8 years and longer.
Finale: Dessert Wine
Botrytis-affected
wines are difficult to make and difficult to judge due to their diversity and
intricate componentry, and the requirement of clean infection. The Champion Dessert Wine was the Farmgate Noble Harvest Riesling 2007
(19.0+/20), at 10.0% alc., with 279 g/l rs, made from Hawke’s Bay fruit
fermented over 6 months at the Ngatarawa winery. Brilliant golden yellow
colour, this has a huge voluminous nose of honey and marmalade from the
massively botrytised fruit. Very, very
sweet, this is unctuous and dense with its richness. Yet there is a lovely freshness from the thread
of acidity present through the palate. Decadent
with honey and yellow fruit flavours showing well. Drinking now and over the next 4-5 years.