By Raymond Chan
This year's ANZWA consolidated the innovations introduced last year with the raised standard for bronzes, the distinction of elite gold medal wines and the recognition of awards, including the equivalent of the Reserve wine of the Show, to wines made under the Sustainable Winegrowing criteria.
From 1751 wines judged, there were 91 Golds (3 Pure Elite Gold, 28 Elite Gold, 4 Pure Gold and 56 Gold, 5.19% of the total), 239 Silver (19 Pure Silver, 220 Silver, 13.65%) and 399 Bronze (32 Pure Bronze, 367 Bronze, 22.79%). The proportions were very similar and marginally lower, than that of the previous year.
Gold medals were awarded to 13 Sauvignon Blanc, 15 Chardonnay, 11 Riesling, 6 Pinot Gris, 4 Gewurztraminer, 2 Other White (Viognier), 3 Sweet, 1 Sparkling, 1 Rose, 21 Pinot Noir, 1 Other Red (Tempranillo), 5 Cabernet and Merlot Blends and 8 to Syrah. Proportionally, the Rieslings, Pinot Noir and Syrah wines performed exceptionally well.
Regionally, gold medals went: 29 to Marlborough, 26 to Hawke's Bay, 17 to Central Otago, 5 each to Gisborne and Nelson, 4 to Martinborough, 3 to Waipara and 2 to Auckland. Hawke's Bay and Central Otago were awarded to a greater extent than the growing area was proportional.
Our annual masterclass of trophy winners from the show put 15 wines up for tasting. Every trophy winning wine was shown. Here are my notes on the wines:
Sparkling Wine
Only one gold medal and thus one trophy. The Daniel Le Brun Methode Traditionelle Blanc de Blancs 2000 (18.5+/20) made from 100% Chardonnay with 8 g/l rs after 7 years on lees was superbly elegant and concentrated with bread yeast and autolysis characters and great length. The wine was soft, without the zest of youth, but the firm core with complex nuances were features. Of very fine Champagne quality and interest.
Aromatic Whites
The best aromatic whites are truly world class. Six golds for Pinot Gris, however the large number of no awards here is a reflection of the work to be done with the variety. The Shingle Peak Reserve Pinot Gris 2008 (18.5+/20) was an excellent example with real presence of ripe stonefruit aromas and flavours plus nuances of spice. Dry to taste with 5.1 g/l rs, this had weight and textural qualities, and a little alcoholic heat. Good length here. Four golds for Gewurztraminer, a variety on a high currently. The Hunters Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2008 (19.0+/20) was an outstanding example, with greater richness and ripeness than expected for a Marlborough sourced wine. Honey, spice and Turkish Delight characters with real body and weight, the succulence from the fruit was supplemented by the 7.9 g/l rs. With 11 golds, Riesling surpassed all expectations of the variety. The Forrest ‘Doctors' Marlborough Riesling 2008 (19.5-/20) was a take on the classical Mosel style with 8.5% alc and 33 g/l rs. Packed with gorgeous limes, florals and minerals, with a touch of honey, this medium-sweet wine had wonderful balance of its fine acidity, sugar and fine textures. A wine of sheer delicacy and great length.
Fuller Whites
As usual the Sauvignon Blanc class, with 13 golds, was dominated by Marlborough 2008 wines. The directive to ensure that the pungent ‘sweaty' characters needed to be backed by fruit was heeded, and the Goldwater Wairau Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (19.0/20) was one where the powerful passionfruit and thiol characters were reined-in to a degree of purity and cut that resulted in refinement and tight structure. These are qualities not usually seen in Sauvignon Blanc. The Goldwater wine took trophies for Champion Sauvignon Blanc and Open White Wine. Viognier as a new variety is making inroads. With two golds in the Other Whites (and Rosé) class, the Villa Maria ‘Single Vineyard – Omahu Gravels' Viognier 2007 (18.5+/20) behaved as Viogniers tend to by seeming awkward and oaky on first pouring, but coming together to show seamless and rich citrus zest and apricot flavours with air time. The powerful oak from six months in 40% new French barrels and 14.5% alcohol melded in.
Chardonnay
This variety has come back with a vengeance and the examples we are seeing at the top level are truly fantastic. 15 gold medals mean plenty of choice. Interestingly, it was the Villa Maria group which took out the Chardonnay winners. The Champion Chardonnay was the Vidal Reserve Hawke's Bay Chardonnay 2007 (19.5-/20) which saw two thirds indigenous yeast fermentation, partial malo and 10 months in 60% new French barriques. Archetype citrus fruit with mealy, nutty flavours and a little malo complexity, all on an extremely elegant and seamless palate. Absolutely gorgeous with its finesse, depth and freshness. The Champion Exhibition White was the Villa Maria Reserve Hawke's Bay Chardonnay 2006 (19.0-/20). Fruit from the Waikahu and Ngakirikiri sites. 14 months in 35% new French oak has contributed to the powerful nutty flavours. This was a wine of great depth, oak expression, alcohol and acidity, all in balance, resulting in substance and structure. Though showing signs of secondary development, this will keep well.
Pinot Noir
With 21 golds, Pinot Noir was the premier variety. The diversity of style and expression of regionality were noted in the wines judged. The two trophy winning Pinot Noirs were at different ends of the expression spectrum. The Nautilus ‘Four Barriques' Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007 (19.0-/20), made from fruit including that from the new ‘Clay Hills' vineyard took the Champion Exhibition Red award. Dark in colour, this had full, deep, dark plum flavours, succulent with sweetly ripened fruit and a good dose of oak spiciness. The Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir 2007 (19.0/20) was fresher, cooler and crisper with lovely fragrances and perfumes of dark cherries and herbs, with lively acidity. 10 months in 38% new French oak. Champion Open Red and Champion Pinot Noir trophies.
Full-Bodied Reds
The Other Red Varieties give room for new and experimental wines come through for recognition. The Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Tempranillo 2007 (18.5-/20) has taken this trophy a number of times and is a pointer to its suitability. Full, dark and robust, this has attractive savoury and game notes with herbs and earth allied to black berry fruit flavours. This has little resemblance to the Rioja and Ribera del Duero wines we see. The Selaks ‘Favourite' Hawke's Bay Merlot/Cabernet 2007 (18.5+/20) was more familiar territory to most tasters. W