By Raymond Chan
Domaine
Albert Mann must be considered one of the rising stars of the Alsace wine scene. Along with the likes of Schoffit, this
producer is making immaculate wines that rival the very best, but at around
half the price. It is Maurice and Jacky
Barthelmé’s natural and traditional approach to allowing the fruit from their
20 hectares to express the terroir that has resulted in their flavoursome, honest
wines of real and varied character. Vine
age and the root structure are very important factors for quality and
balance. The winemaking employs whole
bunch pressing, native yeast fermentation in stainless steel, with no
clarification, definte lees work and no malolactic conversion. Understanding the climate, geology, history
and culture of the region and how it comes together in harmony with the
grapevine is the key to the domaine’s strength.
It was a real pleasure to have Maurice Marthelmé present a range of his
wines at Regional Wines. The tasting was
focussed on the 2008 vintage, one that is regarded as an outstanding year, even
among the high quality vintages of 2007 and coming 2009, and Maurice believes
these wines will be very long-lived.
Here are my notes on the wines tasted:
Flight One: Riesling
Riesling is
seen as the most noble variety in Alsace
for the Barthelmé brothers. Reflecting
the proportions of the regions plantings, it comprises just over 20% of the
domaine’s holdings. The 2008s, according
to Maurice show great purity, delicacy and excellent acidity to enable the best
examples to live 30-40 years. First up
was the Albert Mann Alsace Riesling ‘Tradition’ 2008
(17.0+/20) at 12.0% alc and with around 3 g/l rs. Mainly from the plains, rather than the
hillside sites, this was pale straw yellow with a light bouquet of limes,
minerals and a delicate touch of herbs.
Dry to taste, this was clean, crisp, tight and minerally with the
acidity prominent. A touch of reduction
for some tasters, that blew off. Time
will see this become rounder. Then the Albert Mann Alsace Riesling GC Schlossberg 2008
(18.5-/20) from 2 ha on the granite soils where the domaine has 2 ha, the wine
is 12.5% alc, and carries 11.0 g/l rs, but with a high 10.2 g/l TA for
balance. Pale straw, this had a very
intense, fine and fresh nose of pure minerals and subtle lime-like fruit. Dry, this had excellent depth, body and
texture, very fine and tightly bound, demanding time to show its potential. This will develop magnificently.
Flight Two: Pinot Gris
This variety
was outstanding in 2008, the wines showing the textures that are
sought-after. Pinot Gris comprises
around 12% of the plantings for the domaine.
The Albert Mann Alsace Pinot Gris ‘Tradition’ 2008
(17.5/20) at 13.5% alc, was pale straw in colour, with a full, up-front bouquet
of honied tropical fruits, yellow stonefuits, pears and spices. Off-dryish, the palate was soft and rounded
with accessible fruit and a touch of alcohol warmth showing. An excellent expression of the variety. Next were the grand cru wines, led by the Albert Mann Alsace Pinot Gris GC Hengst 2008
(19.0/20) at 14.0% alc and 28 g/l rs. A
beautifully limpid straw yellow with golden hues, the bouquet was a little
reticent at first, but opened up to show broad spicy and savoury stonefruits,
and apricotty botrytis and honey aromas.
Slightly sweet on palate, this had breadth on the palate with density
and viscosity adding to a rich mouthfeel.
Decadent and rich with honey and stonefruits, this was very appealing
and quite complex from the relatively heavy soil expressing its terroir. Then came the Albert Mann Alsace Pinot Gris GC Furstentum 2008 (18.5+/20) at
14.0% alc with 21 g/l rs from the lighter sandstone soils of the steep site,
this was pale edge straw colour with a tight, restrained, steely nose of
stonefruits, spice and minerals.
Off-dry, the palate was slippery smooth with delicate and pure florals,
minerals and steel. The acidity of the wine
was a feature, and combined with the long finish, this spoke of great potential.
Flight Three: Gewurztraminer
The best
recognised of the Alsace
varieties, it accounts for approx. 17% of the domaine’s holdings. First was the Albert Mann Alsace
Gewurztraminer ‘Tradition’ 2008 (18.0-/20), with 14.0% alc and 16 g/l
rs. Light golden hued straw yellow, this
had a classic bouquet of florals ginger, lychees and spices, intense and
fresh. Off dry on palate, this possessed
a honied floral and spice amalgam of flavours with a little alcohol warmth. Attractive and accessible. The first grand cru was the Albert Mann Alsace Gewurztraminer GC Furstentum 2008 (18.5/20)
at 13.5% alc abd 31 g/l rs, made from fruit from vines >50 y.o., from two
parcels. Even straw yellow in colour
this had a tightly bound bouquet of florals and minerals, as the lighter
Furstentum soils gives. Off-dry on the
palate, this was a wine of tautness; stylish and elegant, yet with intensity
and richness. Very fine textures for
Gewurztraminer, with no coarse blowsiness at all. Then came the Albert Mann Alsace
Gewurztraminer CG Steingrubler 2007 (19.0/20), at 14.0% alc and 23 g/l
rs. Light straw golden coloured, this
was soft, broad and full on the nose with plenty of spicy, earthy ginger-spice,
lifted with rose petal nuances. Off dry,
this was a full, open wine, yet with a firm and tight core providing real
density. Richness and lusciousness came
through, yet the wine retained style and a degree of finesse. The richness and accessibility was a function
of the clay-limestone soil of the site and the vintage now showing some
maturity.
Flight Four: Sweet Wines
These two
represented the rare styles of sweeter wines, difficult to make and very highly
regarded in Alsace. The Albert
Mann Alsace
Pinot Gris ‘Altenbourg’ Vendanges Tardives 2007 (18.5+/20) at 12.5% alc and
77 g/l rs was made from 50% botrytis affected fruit. Dark golden yellow, this had an evolved
appearance, but the colour may have originated from the skins (?). Full and hottish on the nose, this had rich,
deep, wild honey and light raisin hints on riped yellow stonefruit aromas. Tea and quince were also detected. Sweet on palate, this had honey and rich
lozenge flavours along with apricots.
Rich, yet with restraint, soft, yet textured, this was superb drinking
now, but should hold for 6-8 years easily.
The Albert Mann Alsace Gewurztraminer GC Furstentum
Selections des Grains Nobles 2005 (18.5/20) was made from a berry-by