Central
Otago hosts a
multitude of talented winemakers, among them Jeff Sinnott of Amisfield, one of
the most respected in the region. Jeff has the ability to recognise and capture
the flavours of site and fruit and express them with great clarity in the wines
he is responsible for. The mantra at Amisfield is “Grown, not made” and Jeff
sees primarily what the vineyard provides. The 2006 ‘Rocky Knoll’ is Jeff’s
ultimate expression of a great site, effectively a grand cru for Amisfield.
Made from Dijon
clones 115, 667 and 777 from a block within a block defined by glacial deposits
in the soil in the vineyard near Lowburn, the fruit was sorted into multiple
batches for individual vinification according to clones and sections of the
site. Portions were fermented in large barrels with 30% whole cluster to
enhance the spicy aromatics. Most was destemmed and wild fermented with a small
amount of whole bunches to add complexity and tannin structure. With up to 45
days on skins, the wine spent 15 months in 44% new tight-grained burgundian
barriques. The result is a multi-dimensional wine that is dense and powerful
with immense concentration and wonderfully nuanced aromas and flavours that draw
you in to taste the wine again and again. The wine is tight and refined,
lending a fineness and proportion that speaks of an elegance that will come
through with bottle-age. If this is not grand cru, what is? RC July 08
