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Archangel Aromatics Are Heavenly

Even though the Archangel Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008 took a gold medal at last year’s Air N.Z. Wine Awards, this new producer did not register with us. The fact that there seems to be a new winery wanting to break into the market every week makes it difficult to keep up with emerging labels. In a sense this is a shame on us, as we could be overlooking something very special. And we at Regional Wines nearly did, until the Central Otago “A World of Difference’ wine event held in March. There, waiting to be discovered was Archangel Wine, and possibly the best expression of pristine aromatic wines we have ever seen from Central Otago.

The Archangel Vineyard was established in 2003 by Mary and Janusz Zurakowski, who are the married offspring of two women who shared a compelling wartime story of survival and destiny from their native Poland to the Arkhangel’sk labour camp in Siberia, through Russia, Persia, India, Africa and finally to England. Mary and Janusz’s drive is to honour their mothers through their vineyard and wines, named after the start of the journey. Situated at Queensberry, just north of Lake Dunstan on the road from Cromwell to Wanaka, the Archangel vineyard measures 23 hectares, of which 7.41 are planted to Pinot Noir, 1.54 to Pinot Gris, 1.17 to Chardonnay and just 1.0 to Riesling, totaling 11.12 hectares at present, all managed sustainably and heading towards an organic regime. The Zurakowskis have taken advice from the very best possible sources in the setting up of the site and in the making of their wines. Viticultural guru Dr David Jordon and the Vine wise Viticulture team led by Gary Ford are responsible for the fruit resource. John Belsham, best known for his Foxes Island wines oversees the winemaking with Dan and Sarah-Kate Dineen of Maude winery in Wanaka. With these heavyweights, it is no surprise that the wines are astonishingly superb. The 2008 Pinot Noir is highly recommended, but here we feature the stunning aromatic whites as wines to die for, and go to heaven to taste, meeting Gabriel, the Archangel, of course!

Archangel Central Otago Riesling 2009
This is sensational wine and makes its mark with the absolutely beautiful, pristine and pure varietal aromatics and flavour that have no peer with their finesse of expression. As a first release it has joined the elite of Central Otago, with the likes of Misha’s Vineyard, Mount Edward, Mt Difficulty, Felton Road and Peregrine in capturing the essential and elusive mineral flintiness that Central Otago Riesling has as its signature. Pale straw with brilliant green hues, the bouquet is one of great delicacy, subtlely flowing with limes, apples, florals and wet stones. A sheer delight to sip and savour, the palate is dry and elegant, being 12.0% alc and carrying 7.5 g/l residual sugar, yielding the barest hint of sweetness, but suggesting just a little more in richness. Though so refined, the wine has excellent line and a long lacy, racy, lingering finish. It is a wine to enjoy as an aperitif over the next 5+ years. Only 80 cases were made.

Archangel Central Otago Pinot Gris 2009
With the undisputed success of Pinot Noir in Central Otago, there is no doubt that Pinot Gris will achieve a similar result in the final analysis as long as yields are kept low and winemaker input is sensitively applied. The Archangel wine is already there, a benchmark for others to aim at. Bright and limpid straw yellow in colour, the aromatics strike a remarkable balance between intrigue and decadence. Honey, spices and yellow stonefruits sit at the core with nuances of pears, tropical fruits, and steel support the nose. The bouquet is sheer delight. Softly full, with 13.7% alc, the7.7 g/l residual sugar lies at the heart of a fine, concentrated palate. The wine is fresh with excellent acidity, yet it is extremely harmonious and accessible now. This Pinot Gris has richness, yet an elegance, cut and style. Drink over the next 3-4 years, but it’s hard to resist now. 200 cases made.

 


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