Even though the Archangel Central Otago Pinot Noir
2008 took a gold medal at last year’s Air N.Z. Wine Awards, this new producer
did not register with us. The fact that
there seems to be a new winery wanting to break into the market every week
makes it difficult to keep up with emerging labels. In a sense this is a shame on us, as we could
be overlooking something very special.
And we at Regional Wines nearly did, until the Central
Otago “A World of Difference’ wine event held in March. There, waiting to be discovered was Archangel
Wine, and possibly the best expression of pristine aromatic wines we have ever
seen from Central Otago.
The Archangel Vineyard was established in 2003 by Mary
and Janusz Zurakowski, who are the married offspring of two women who shared a compelling
wartime story of survival and destiny from their native Poland to the
Arkhangel’sk labour camp in Siberia, through Russia, Persia, India, Africa and
finally to England. Mary and Janusz’s
drive is to honour their mothers through their vineyard and wines, named after
the start of the journey. Situated at
Queensberry, just north of Lake Dunstan on the road from Cromwell to Wanaka,
the Archangel vineyard measures 23 hectares, of which 7.41 are planted to Pinot
Noir, 1.54 to Pinot Gris, 1.17 to Chardonnay and just 1.0 to Riesling, totaling
11.12 hectares at present, all managed sustainably and heading towards an
organic regime. The Zurakowskis have
taken advice from the very best possible sources in the setting up of the site
and in the making of their wines. Viticultural
guru Dr David Jordon and the Vine wise Viticulture team led by Gary Ford are
responsible for the fruit resource. John
Belsham, best known for his Foxes
Island wines oversees the
winemaking with Dan and Sarah-Kate Dineen of Maude winery in Wanaka. With these heavyweights, it is no surprise
that the wines are astonishingly superb.
The 2008 Pinot Noir is highly recommended, but here we feature the
stunning aromatic whites as wines to die for, and go to heaven to taste,
meeting Gabriel, the Archangel, of course!
Archangel Central
Otago Riesling 2009
This is sensational wine and makes its mark with the
absolutely beautiful, pristine and pure varietal aromatics and flavour that
have no peer with their finesse of expression.
As a first release it has joined the elite of Central Otago, with the
likes of Misha’s Vineyard, Mount
Edward, Mt Difficulty, Felton Road and
Peregrine in capturing the essential and elusive mineral flintiness that
Central Otago Riesling has as its signature.
Pale straw with brilliant green hues, the bouquet is one of great
delicacy, subtlely flowing with limes, apples, florals and wet stones. A sheer delight to sip and savour, the palate
is dry and elegant, being 12.0% alc and carrying 7.5 g/l residual sugar,
yielding the barest hint of sweetness, but suggesting just a little more in
richness. Though so refined, the wine
has excellent line and a long lacy, racy, lingering finish. It is a wine to enjoy as an aperitif over the
next 5+ years. Only 80 cases were made.
Archangel Central Otago Pinot Gris 2009
With the undisputed success of Pinot Noir in Central Otago, there is no doubt that Pinot Gris will
achieve a similar result in the final analysis as long as yields are kept low
and winemaker input is sensitively applied.
The Archangel wine is already there, a
benchmark for others to aim at. Bright
and limpid straw yellow in colour, the aromatics strike a remarkable balance
between intrigue and decadence. Honey,
spices and yellow stonefruits sit at the core with nuances of pears, tropical
fruits, and steel support the nose. The
bouquet is sheer delight. Softly full,
with 13.7% alc, the7.7 g/l residual sugar lies at the heart of a fine,
concentrated palate. The wine is fresh
with excellent acidity, yet it is extremely harmonious and accessible now. This Pinot Gris has richness, yet an
elegance, cut and style. Drink over the
next 3-4 years, but it’s hard to resist now.
200 cases made.