Shiraz takes pride of place in the Barossa Valley
with around 6,000 hectares planted, about half of the region’s total. The style is seen as definitive Australian,
described in general terms by James Halliday as “full-blooded – dark in colour,
rich in dark red fruits with a touch of chocolate, a hint of roasted character,
and sometimes eucalypt/mint. The
structure is round and velvety, and the wines are invariably extremely
long-lived”. Barossa Shiraz stands tall
as one of Australia’s
truly representative wines, friendly, generous open and with a quiet
pride. It can be the easiest of wines to
appreciate, especially with a meal centred around hearty red meat dishes, and
it can be awe-inspiring and almost overwhelming when pushed to its limits,
Penfolds ‘Grange’ being the ultimate example.
We offer three Barossa Shiraz wines, true to standard, yet showing how
differences in vintage and aspiration result in varying styles:
Yalumba
‘Patchwork’ Barossa Shiraz 2008
As Australia’s oldest family-owned
winery, Yalumba has a history, stability and purpose that no other wine
producing operation can match. With 160
years of Barossa heritage, the Yalumba wines are incredibly good and truly
honest. The 2008 is only the fourth
release of this label, designed to bear more than a passing resemblance to ‘The
Octavious’ super-premium Shiraz, and offer immediacy and startling
affordability. Despite the heat-wave
vintage, winemaker Kevin Glastonbury has fashioned a lovely, elegant,
modern-style Shiraz,
with fine, ripe black fruits, spices and pepper, that has excellent aromatic
lift and finesse. The tannins are stylishly
supple and help carry the palate flavours through the long finish. Though elegant in structure, the wine is
still archetype Barossa, the fruit from a ‘patchwork’ quilt of diverse sites
adding up to a most complete wine. Wild
yeast fermented to 13.5% alc, and aged 6 months in 15% new American and French
oak. Drink over the next 4-6 years, and
match it with a flavoursome steak. At
$21.25, this can be enjoyed often.
Langmeil
‘Valley Floor’ Barossa
Valley Shiraz 2007
2007 was a difficult harvest to manage. Drought and frost affected, rapid ripening of
the small crop resulted in very early picking.
This Langmeil wine, being a blend of fruit from selected vineyards
across all the sub-regions of the Barossa’ Valley Floor’ and incorporating a
high proportion of grapes from old vines, some 70-120 years old, is one that
performs above its station of $32.10 and possesses true individuality. At 15.0% alc, it has intensity and depth
along with breadth of aroma and flavour.
Funky and different in character, the bouquet has soft, savoury, spice
and dried herb notes, and this is reflected in the expression of the palate. There is a rich sweetness of fruit, adding to
the smoothness. Oak shine, from the total use ofAmerican barrels, 20% new,
comes through, and the wine has excellent grip and structure underneath,
sufficient for aging 7-9 years. The Langmeil
winery, owned by Richard and Carl Lindner and Chris Bitter since 1996, crushes
around 1,000 tonnes annually. It sits on
the site originally settled in 1842 by German blacksmith Christian Auricht, who
planted vines there, some of which still survive today.
Thorn-Clarke
‘William Randell’ Barossa
Valley Shiraz 2006
The Thorn family have been grape growers
in the Barossa for six generations, since the 1870s, and as such, have
accumulated 265 hectares of prime vineyard sites. The best fruit is selected for their
Thorn-Clarke label, which has emerged within the last decade as a most
significant one representing the best of the Barossa. The ‘Sandpiper’ and ‘Shotfire’ ranges offer
amazing quality and value, but the flagship ‘William Randell’ Shiraz is a no-compromise,
traditionally-style ‘Best of the Barossa’ wine.
The 2006 comes from one of the great Barossa vintages, and the
combination of an outstanding harvest and highest quality aspiration has given
a most special wine indeed, the best release under this label to date,
according to winemaker Derek Fitzgerald.
With 15.0% alc, it is a massive wine in richness, ripeness,
concentration and power. The fruit is
explosive with blackberry, cassis, coffee and liquorice characters, and 22
months barrel maturation, 50% American and 50% French, all new, has provided
lifted vanilla and spice notes. A touch
of volatility is reminiscent of ‘Grange’!
This is an ‘out-there’ wine, and will match the most flavoursome red
meat dishes. The wine deserves plenty of
thought and discussion, as a meditation wine.
It will live for two decades easily.
It is a bargain at $59.40.