Bodegas Beronia makes uncompromisingly traditional Rioja. This seems at discord with its relatively modern beginnings when the bodega was founded in 1973 by a group of friends from a gastronomic society. The style of the wines from Beronia were aimed at the classicist, with quality that modern vinification afforded as paramount. This philosophy attracted the famous Gonzalez Byass Sherry group to invest and take control of Bodegas Beronia in 1982. Based in Ollauri in the western Rioja Alta region, Beronia owns 10 ha of vines over 60 y.o. around the winery and another 25 ha of newer plantings, but draws from 150 growers who they advise, their 700 ha of vines within 10 km of the winery. As can be expected, 95% of Beronia’s annual production of 500,000 cases is red, and the use of American oak for barrel aging is prevalent. These tight, sleek and firmly constructed Rioja wines from Beronia have prominent acid profiles and seem hard, lean and austere on initial impression. But they blossom superbly with air time, becoming gloriously rich and much weightier into the second and even third day of opening. Their restraint, crisp acidity and fine tannins make them outstanding wines at the dinner table and are highly recommended.

Beronia Rioja Crianza 2006
This is classic Crianza made by Matias Calleja, the bodega’s head winemaker, a blend of 84% Tempranillo, 13% Garnacha and 3% Mazuelo, fermented in tank to 13.5% alc, then aged 12 months in oak. The barrels used are predominantly American, and there is use of special casks which include head boards of French oak. The average age of the barrels is less than 4 years. The wine is then aged in bottle for a further 12 months before release. Youthful in appearance with a purple hued ruby-red colour, this has an elegant and tightly bound nose of red berry fruits with restrained sweet and spicy oak notes, along with a cool herb and peppery nuance. The shyness of the bouquet belies the palate which has some depth and fine-grained tannins. The acidity level is noticeable and the subtlety of the red fruit and spice flavours allow the structure to dominate, resulting in a dryness and austerity. The sweet oak sits in the background at first. With air time, the fruit becomes richer and sweeter, darker fruits and liquorice appear, and the oak more manifest. This will be an excellent accompaniment with pasta and meat dishes over the next 5-7 years.

Beronia Rioja Reserva 2005
Though Beronia have just recently created a ‘luxury’ wine labelled ‘III AC, and produce limited quantities of a Gran Reserva, it is the Reserva wine that is seen as the company’s everyday premium release. This is 89% Tempranillo, 6% Mazuelo and 5% Graciano, fermented to 13.5% then aged 18 months in a mix of American and French oak barrels. Then followed a period of two years in bottle before release. Black hued purple red in colour. This has an intense, but fine-framed bouquet of wild red fruits and lifted sweet, vanilla-infused American oak. Medium to full-bodied, this has lush, ripe dark and red berry fruit flavours laced by notes of roasted meats and toast, spices and decadent vanilla elements from the wood. Tannins are very fine and the acidity is prominent. The fruit has real depth and the palate excellent length, finishing dry. Upon breathing, the wine just gets more concentrated and rich, the darker meat and vanilla flavours intensifying. And its class shines through. It will be a great match with roasted game and aged hard cheeses over the next decade.