By Raymond Chan
As one of the smaller Champagne houses, with an annual production of 60,000 cases, Billecart-Salmon is not widely seen. But among Champagne aficionados, the house is held in the highest regard. The quality of the wines is exceptionally high and style enticingly fine. This is due to the vision and standards of the Billecart family, now in its seventh generation of producing Champagne. Founded in 1818 with the union of Nicolas Francois Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon, the house, based at Mareuil-sur-Ay, owns 30 ha of vineyards, and draws from 140 ha from 35 crus within a 20 km radius of Epernay. The grand cru wines are cask fermented, a sign of quality for sure, and the cellarmaster duties are under Francois Dorni.
It was with pleasure and anticipation that Regional Wines held this tasting of Billecart-Salmon Champagne, led by Wellington representative Peter Cunningham. The Champagnes were served in pairs: Non-Vintage and Vintage, the Blanc de Blancs, Rosé wines, finishing with the special cuvee alone. As an addition to the tasting, Peter bracketed the Champagnes with two John Forrest Collection wines, released last year in July. It was fascinating to see how they had developed with a little time in bottle. My notes on the wines follow:
Pre-Taster
John Forrest Collection ‘The White' 2005
13.9% alc, 5.8 g/L rs. A blend of Hawke's Bay Viognier, Marlborough Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Chenin and Gewurz, and Otago Pinot Gris. 450 cases made. Straw yellow with a pale edge. Full, solid, deep and rich on the nose, Chardonnay stonefruit and aromatic lift on the nose. Dry to taste, this is full, weighty and beautifully textured. The fruit flavours are subtle, but there is considerable fruit extract here. Round in the mouth. Interestingly, the varied componentry was detected in deifferent ways by the tasters. Intriguing wine, with the obvious ability to work with food. This has certainly developed more textural depth and harmony since release. 18.0+/20
Non-Vintage and Vintage
Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Reserve NV
35% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Meunier from the Marne, a blend of three vintages. Straw yellow with good depth of colour. Full, broader nose with depth, quite solid, the Pinot Noir depth and bready autolysis prominent. The bouquet is sweet and rich. Soft and harmonious on the palate, this is poised between richness and cleansing austerity. The palate has balance and the structure is tight. Lovely fruit richness from the Pinot Meunier, and fresh acidity giving an elegance. Classy Champagne with depth. 18.0+/20
Billecart-Salmon Champagne ‘Nicolas Francois Billecart' 1998
55% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims and 45% Chardonnay from Cote des Blancs, all grand cru. Darker straw yellow colour with depth. Very full, pure and intense Pinot Noir nose with powerful bready, yeasty autolysis, fresh and youthful. Dry, very fine and firm on palate, with a touch of austerity and almost stern, but there is good fruit richness to match. Very fine-grained and tightly bound, there is excellent concentration and great depth here. Classical finesse, and quite refined. Very long and richly flavoured on the finish. 18.5+/20
Blanc de Blancs
Billecart-Salmon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
100% Chardonnay from the grand crus of Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger in the Cote des Blancs. A blend of two years. Straw yellow, pale edged in colour. Very fine, very delicate nose, a little shy even, with clean, fresh perfumed and lifted Charonnay nuances. Dry with lovely delicacy on the palate, fine and tight, and excellent intensity. Very fine-grained textures, the acidity is pronounced, providing real cut and finesse. White flesh stonefruits, softening out on the finish. Medium length in the end. 18.0-/20
Billecart-Salmon Champagne Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru 1998
100% Chardonnay from Cramant, Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger, all Cote des Blancs grand cru. Deeper straw yellow colour with depth. Very fine, but great intensity, sheer elegance and delicacy with beautiful steely, minerally notes on the nose. Tight and with great concentration. Dry, this has a fabulous richness and intensity along with amazing delicacy. ‘Explosive finesse', this is vibrant and lively, with superb acidity. Sheer elegance and very, very long. The most popular wine of the range for the tasters. 19.0/20
Rosé
Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé NV
35% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Meunier, with still Pinot Noir blended in. Pale pink colour. Delicate, light florals and red berry aromas, strawberries, very fine on nose. Dryish, soft, full and accessible, a delicious delicacy, sweeter floral notes, soft and harmonious, quite gentle. Lovely fine character, the autolysis contributing to the interest, medium length. 18.0+/20
Billecart-Salmon Champagne ‘Elisabeth Salmon' Rosé 1998
50% Pinot NoIr, 50% Chardonnay, some still Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Ay added. Deepish colour, pale copper-pink in tone. A degree of steel and cut to the nose, great depth of fine lifted florals and berry nuances, lovely tight and intense yeasty autolysis. Full-bodied on palate with weight and textures. A combination of power and body here. Richly flavoured with textures and fine grip providing a classy austerity. Superb food style. 19.0-/20
Luxury Cuvee
Billecart-Salmon Champagne ‘Clos St Hilaire' 1996
100% Pinot Noir from a 1.0 ha enclosed site, vines planted in 1964, vinified in situ, no dosage. The second release of this cuvee. 300-600 cases annual production. Bright, deep, light golden yellow colour. Rich, full, deep, soft and open on nose, quite accessible, excellent deep Pinot Noir and autolytic complexity, a softness and refinement. Dry with fullness, depth and solid density. This is quite massive with its concentration and great depth. The fruit extract and depth is quite amazing, yet there is style and balance. The richness of flavour and complexity annuls any hint of austerity from no dosage. Yet this possesses a sense of elegance making it a Champagne more so than a curiosity. The second preferred wine of the range (allowing for price!) My score 19.0+/20
Sweet Wine
John Forrest Collection Brancott Valley Noble Riesling 2005
9.0% alc, 220 g/L rs. 600 cases made. Deep light golden yellow colour. Rich with toasty development aroma, complexed with honey, citrus fruits and florals. Very sweet, this is rich and fine-grained, quite supple and accessible, though with a depth and intensity. Complex apricotty botrytis flavours with honey and citrus fruits. Lovely oily textures. A little shyer than on release, and not quite as decadent, but with lovely development characters now. This will develop further. 19.0/20
Conclusions
The Billecart