Boulcott Street Bistro, 99 Boulcott Street,
Tel: (04) 499-4199
“Familiarity breeds respect” in the
hospitality scene, not contempt as the saying goes. If an establishment has been around for any
length of time to be familiar, it must be very successful. Such is the case with Wellington’s iconic Boulcott Street Bistro
which has been operating at the top level for coming up to two decades. There are those who are critical of the
’bistro’ description, as in reality it sits near the fine-dining level in ask. But the reality is also that the Boulcott
Street Bistro delivers at the fine-dining level in all respects and has done so
for all the time it has been open.
Quite simply, Boulcott Street Bistro
is wonderful because everything has been honed close to perfection over the
years. The Boulcott look is perfectly
put together. Classical creamy interiors
for a colonial villa, with stylishly conventional table settings on crisply
starched linen. Maitre d’ ‘Rusty’
Donworth is an institution and ensures that everything runs like clockwork. He is the friendliest of hosts, yet has the
keenest eye for any of his diners needing service. If they do, they are attended by one of his
staff immediately.
The arrival of star chef Rex Morgan
as a partner in the business has just added refinement and even greater
consistency to the superb output of the kitchen. Rex’s particular style has harmonised easily
with the Boulcott cuisine and one can sense his extra nuance and finish. From the starters, the pea and watercress
soup is a lesson in subtlety, delicacy and finesse. The old favourite, the crumbed calamari is in
bite-sized pieces rather than rings, and the lobster, prawn and gruyere
omelette at ideal consistency and run.
Mains showed the same deft touch.
Succulent, just-cooked snapper with piquant smoked brandade and sweet
red capsicum puree, and the timeless fillet béarnaise (how do they cook it so
evenly?) and meaty but fall-off the bone, tender, braised lamb shanks – all
faultless. Desserts are also
stunning. If you judge a restaurant by
its crème brulee, Boulcott Street
is tops. The chocolate and pistachio
praline parfait, cool and melting in the mouth; is a true taste and textural
sensation.
The wine list is a blend of
interesting and eclectic, with sufficient safety in known and benchmark
labels. It’s broad and deep, and with
the Cellar List, there’s more than something for everyone. And it can change daily. Taittinger Champagne Brut NV was an ideal
start (especially at ‘half-price Monday’)!
Wines by the glass were appropriate, and Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2009,
Millton Chenin Blanc 2007, Palliser Estate Pinot Noir 2008 and Jim Barry ‘Cover Drive’
Cabernet 2006 were served. Sweet drops
at the end for us included a Limoncello, Chapoutier Muscat Beaumes 2006, Warres
‘Warrior’ Port and Lustau ‘San Emilio’ PX Sherry.
Starters are around $17.00, mains $34.00
- $37.00 and desserts $16.00, and the cheese selection is $21.00. At the end of the night, we spent about $90.00
per person, including all the drinks, but there were a couple of lighter eaters
among us. That’s fine-dining pricing in
the scheme of things, and we felt it gave extremely good value. The Boulcott Street Bistro experience as a
whole was appreciated by the old campaigners, as much as ever, but it was
extremely pleasing to see the younger set accompanying us enjoy it equally as
much. It was like passing the
baton. It is certain that the Boulcott
Street Bistro will endure as an icon, for the next generation.
-
Raymond Chan