By Raymond Chan & Sue Davies
The Brown
Brothers winemaking family has a proud history of four generations of winemaking,
based in Milawa, in north-east Victoria
since 1885. Known for its readiness to
innovate, Brown Brothers trial, make and market an astonishing number of styles
and varieties, many of them new and exotic, yet Brown Brothers also excel at
producing superb quality in traditional styles.
A significant proportion of the fruit comes from five family owned
vineyards in Victoria that range from high altitude, cool-climate sites to
those which are regarded as warmer. This
allows success in the varied wine styles made.
It was a
pleasure to have Steve Kline, Brown Brothers wine ambassador and educator for
over 20 years lead us through a tasting of a diverse range of his wines,
showing the high quality attained which attracts consistent gold medals and
trophies, and wines that are versatile and accessible by a wide range of drinkers,
offering great value. Few of the world’s
wine producers possess this ability allied to variety. This made for a fun tasting. Following are our notes on the wines tasted:
Flight One: The Red Wines
Interestingly,
the tasting began with all the seemingly more serious dry red wines. The Brown
Brothers Tempranillo 2005 (17.0+/20) using the Spanish origin variety grown
predominantly from the Heathcote vineyard at 14.0% alc, with 12-18 months in
American oak, was a medium weight wine with supple and soft red berry and
slightly savoury aromas and flavours. A
fruit-forward style, the tannins were soft, and the wine fresh and lively. A touch of oak gave some sheen; this was very
drinkable now.
Two flagship
level ‘Patricia’ Bordeaux-varietal wines followed. The Brown
Brothers ‘Patricia’ Merlot 2004 (17.0-/20), 14.5% alc, came from the
Glenkara vineyard in western Victoria with 6% from Beechworth, and given 18
months in 70% new French barriques. Ruby
red with a little garnet, this displayed green herb, currant and olive
characters, quite savoury-spicy and with secondary complexities on a palate
becoming integrated. Good tannin grip
and acidity still showed. A step up, the
Brown Brown Brothers ‘Patricia’ Cabernet
Sauvignon 2004 (19.0-/20) at 13.5% alc, 60% of the fruit from the Glenkara
vineyard, with the remainder from the cooler Politini and Dookie Hills sites,
given 18-20 months in 100% new French barriques, was still tightly concentrated
and youthful as could be seen from the black-red colour and aromas and flavours
of fresh dark berry fruits and cassis.
The intensity of the fruit was matched by the new oak shine and fine
extraction. This will age another 7-10
years easily.
Two Shiraz wines, very
different in style, were served next.
The Brown Brothers ‘Limited
Release’ Heathcote Shiraz 2006 (17.0+/20), 14.0% alc, was aged in 28% new
American oak and an elegant, medium-weight expression of the variety with
classic cooler-climate mint and eucalypt notes alongside white pepper and
Middle Eastern spice notes.. Juicy,
approachable and with supple tannins, this was attractive drinking now, but
will hold 3-5 years. Far more serious
was the Brown Brothers ‘Patricia’ Shiraz
2004 (18.5+/20) with 14.5% alc, the fruit came one third each from
Heathcote, the King Valley and the Glenkara vineyard in western Victoria, 35%
barrel fermented and given 18 months in new American barriques and
puncheons. Classical Aussie Shiraz,
surprisingly quite warm in expression in spite of the cooler fruit origins,
with ripe dark berry, black pepper and liquorice aromas and flavours. This had excellent concentration and
depth. The tannins were just beginning
to soften. This will keep well for
another 5-8 years easily.
Flight Two: The White Wines
The white
wines were served after the reds due to their higher residual sugar
levels. Though generally light weight,
they followed without any major palate disruption or recalibration
required. First was the Brown Brothers Crouchen/Riesling 2008
(17.0+/20), at 10.5% alc, was a 67% Crouchen, 33% Riesling blend and had 43 g/l
residual sugar. Pale coloured, this
displayed light floral and mineral aromatics on an off-dry to medium palate
with steely pear flavours. ‘Pretty’ and
refreshing was the verdict and a surprising pleasure.
Next came three
very different interpretations of the Muscat of Alexandria grape. A benchmark and icon label for decades, the Brown Brothers Lexia 2008 (18.0+/20),
at 11.0% alc and 63 g/l rs was straw yellow in colour with fresh and voluminous
fresh grape, musk and raisin aromas on a medium sweet palate that was lively,
fresh and almost ‘sherbet-like’.
Classical late-harvest muscat with superb refreshing balance. The Brown
Brothers Moscato 2008 (19.0-/20) was a modern and pristine interpretation
of the artisanal Moscato d’Asti wines of Piedmont, northwest Italy. At 5.5% alc and 110 g/l rs, this possessed a
slight effervescence adding to the lightness and refreshing qualities of the
zesty, grape and raisin flavours.
Perfectly pristine in its expression of varietal character, with superb
acid balance and absolutely no cloying at all. The third of this group of wines was the Brown Brothers Zibibbo Sparkling NV
(17.5+/20) a tank fermented wine to 6.5% alc and 99 g/l rs. Pale with a fine mousse, this showed classic
grape and herb aromatics and flavours on a creamy textured palate with raisiny
and herb notes. Medium length and good
drying finish completed the wine.
Flight Three: Three Different Sweet Wines
This trio
covered the spectrum of sweet or dessert wine styles. First was a newly developed variety. The Brown
Brothers Cienna 2008 (17.0-/20) is made from a cross of the Spanish Sumoll
variety with Cabernet Sauvignon, developed by the CSIRO. Grown in the Mystic Park
vineyard, this was 5.0% alc and carried 135 g/l rs. Light ruby red in colour, this was full of
raspberry-based confectionery and esters aromas on a slightly effervescent
palate that was light and juicy with just a barely perceptible touch of tannin
grip. With its sweetness and overt lolly
overtones, this could be seen as ‘alco-pop’.
If so, it was technically a very well-made wine. Next was the traditional botrytis-affected
sticky. The Brown Brothers ‘Patricia’ Noble Riesling 2006 (19.5-/20), fruit
from the Milawa vineyard, fermented to 8.5% alc leaving 167 g/l rs. Pale golden yellow in colour, this was just
beginning to develop some bottle aged complexities. Wild honey, marmalade, citrus and toast notes
on bouquet and palate. Beautifully
textured and unctuous, yet not over the top in any way, showing great balance
with its res