By Raymond Chan
We can thank the global empire of Jean-Charles Boisset for the renaissance of J Moreau & Fils in Chablis and the Bouchard Ainé merchants in Beaune. Healthy investment, the philosophy of the finest wines possible practically, and expertise in the form of winemaker Gregory Patriat has seen these two wine producers raise themselves out of mediocrity. Raymond had the opportunity of previewing a small selection of wines from these two labels and subsequently ordered a small amount to test the water. The Moreau wines from Chablis appeared particularly good value. And The Bouchard Ainé wines offered the first decent look at the 2003 red burgundy vintage, a hot, dry and atypical year. This tasting was a test of their performance for their renaissance as well as these other factors. The wines were tasted blind in flights of similar style, with the order randomized. My notes follow:
J Moreau & Fils – Chablis
Founded in 1814 by Jean-Joseph Moreau, this company became one of the largest producers of Chablis. Well known for its un-oaked style, the wines are fermented at 18-20°C in stainless steel, undergoing MLF, depending on the vintage, and are lees stirred. Purchased by Boisset in 1997, Moreau deals with over 50 contract growers sourcing fruit from over 300 different parcels. While a significant land owner, with holdings in some of the best sites in the Grand and Premier Crus, several of the important parcels have reverted back to their original owners recently.
Moreau Chablis 1er Cru ‘Fourchaume' 2002
13.0% alc., from the 24 ha Fourchaume 1er Cru. (740 ha total 1er Cru) Bright straw yellow with a pale edge. Soft, full nose with nutty, waxy aromas of good intensity. Dry, good oily texture and weight on palate. Typical minerally, flinty nose with good fresh, crisp acidity. Quite full, and showing some restraint to the flavours. Some alcohol warmth showing. Medium length finish. The second most preferred wine of the flight by the group. 17.5-/20
Moreau Chablis 2003
12.5% alc., from the 2,700 ha approx of Chablis plantings. Light straw with a golden hue. Soft, full, flattish nose with ripe stonefruits. Not that deep. Quite clean and pure. Dry, ripe stonefruit flavours with citrus, very modern and New World. Open, but fresh, easy, reasonable acidity, balanced, and very drinkable now. The most preferred wine of the flight by the group. My score 16.5-/20
Moreau Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos' 2001
12.5% alc., from the 24.75 ha ‘Les Clos', regarded the best of the Grand Crus. Light golden yellow colour, full, showing the most age. Quite a full bouquet, developed nutty and oxidative aromas. Dry, and a little dried out, full, soft and rounded. Fruit a little light, but broadly expressed. Oxidative again on palate. Medium finish. 16.0+/20
Bouchard Ainé – Beaune
Founded in 1750 by Michel Bouchard who set up as a wine merchant in Beaune, to become one of the better known negociants. Purchased in 1992 by Boisset after an undistinguished period. Owning around 22 ha and producing approx. 10,000 cases, the best wines, from fruit from the company's properties come under the ‘Signature Reserve'label. Bouchard Ainé as a negociant produces wines
from all of the Cote d'Or as well as the Cote Chalonnaise, Macon and Beaujolais. Rhone wines and Vin de Table with Vin de Pays is included under the Bouchard Ainé label.
The ‘Southern' Burgundies
Bouchard Ainé Santenay 1er Cru ‘Clos Rousseau' 2003
13.0% alc., from the 9.84 ha ‘Clos Rousseau' 1er Cru situated at the southern end of the appellation. Dark, deep ruby red with purple hues. Full, ripe nose of dark berry and cherry flavours, sweet, though with a hint of a hard edge. Full, open wine, but with firm tannin grip, quite robust and solid, warm and chunky. Good fruit sweetness, almost matching the structure. Reasonably balanced and close to approachable now. The second preferred of the flight by the group. 17.0-/20
Bouchard Ainé Savigny-les-Beaune ‘Petits Picotins' 2003
13.0% alc., from a lieux-dit situated on the eastern side of the appellation near Chorey-les-Beaune. 10 months in 20% new oak, 135 cases made. Full, even ruby red, with purple on edge. Coolish dark berry and cherry nose, intense, clean linear, aromatic lift, some new oak too. Quite fine and elegant wine, refined even. Dark berry flavours with fine tannins, quite high in extraction. A lusciousness and length. Firm wine, but with some class. The most preferred of the flight by the tasters. 18.0/20
Bouchard Ainé Mercurey 1er Cru ‘Clos Voyens' 2003
13.0% alc., from one of six 1er Cru sites. Good hearted ruby red, moderate depth to colour. Slightly narrowed on nose, cooler aromas, not quite the richness and sweetness to the fruit, a touch hard. Tightly bound on palate, a little dusty/earthy, funky even. Full tannins and the structure a little open and loose. Appears a little skinny, but with proper componentry. 16.0+/20
Premier Cru Burgundies
Bouchard Ainé Pommard 1er Cru ‘Charmots' 2003
13.5% alc., from the 9.56 ha ‘Charmots' site north of the village. 11 months in 35% new oak, 100 cases made. Dark, deep, full and even ruby red. Tightly bound, almost minerally nose with dark fruit and soy sauce aromas. Full and dense on palate, chunky and solid, real power, weight and density. Very Pommard in style, with excellent concentration. The tannins overwhelm the fruit at present. The second preferred wine of the flight. 17.5+/20
Bouchard Ainé Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru ‘Chaboeufs' 2003
13.5% alc., from the 2.80 ha site south of the town towards Premeaux. 11 months in 40% new oak, 125 cases made. Dark, deep ruby red, a hint of orange on edge. Full, ripe, rich plumy aromas, plump with dark berry overtones. Full, solid and with earthy notes. Surprisingly refined and elegant on palate, floral fruit characters, fine grained tannins and good acidity. Excellent extraction and balance with attractive sweet fruit. Fine, juicy and rich. Good length. The most preferred wine of the flight by the group of tasters. My score 18.5-/20
Bouchard Ainé Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos du Rois' 2003
13.0% alc., from the northerly 8.41 ha 1er Cru site, 10 months in 38% new oak, 250 cases made. Full, deep, dark purple ruby colour. Fine, aromatic, perfumed nose with depth of floral and soft red and berry fruits. Soft and supple, relatively gentle entry, but with considerable weight and extract still. Fine-grained tannins, softish and low in acidity, sturdy overall. A broader wine. 17.0+/20
Grand Cru Burgundies
Bouchard Ainé Clos de la Roche 2003
13.5% alc., from the 16.9 ha Grand Cru in Morey-St-Denis. 11 months in 35% new oak, 75 cases made. Dark, deep ruby red colour. Lovely dark berry fruit aromas, ripe and finely expressed. A note of complexity from stalks too. Lusciously ripe and rich, silky smooth textures on palate. Still tight and restrained, excellent extraction and considerable concentration an