To me Bordeaux
is like fine art – something I’ve always wanted to appreciate, but never really
got around to it. I’ve tried my share of
claret, most notably an early 70’s Haut Brion, from a poor vintage. It was still the finest Merlot·Cabernet I’ve
tried from anywhere. I was intrigued to
look at some Bordeaux from outside of the
regular haunts – appellations that don’t get the same press as St Emilion or
the Medoc.
Chateau de Sours is situated just to the South-west
of Pomerol and Libourne, facing St Emilion.
It dates back to the 14th century, where the property was
used as an Inn. After the Comtes des Richemont managed to
avoid the guillotine during the French revolution, he renovated the property,
and planted the first grapes. Current
owner Martin Krajewski has owned the Chateau outright for 5 years, after first
being a passive investor since the 1990’s.
As Chateau de Sours are rosé specialists,
it would be rude not to start with Bordeaux’s
only traditional method rosé. It’s also the only sparkling Merlot/ Cabernet Franc
blend I’ve tried. The Reserve de Sours Rose is a 50/50 blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot, with the first fermentation in tank, and the second in
the bottle. It immediately made me think
of Centre Court
at Wimbledon.
Strawberries and cream to the fore here, coupled with an intriguing
savoury tomato leaf character. The harmonious
balance between sugar and acid leaves your tongue craving more.
Chateau de Sours Grand Vin Blanc 2010 was
next up. It’s a blend of 80 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 20 percent Semillon A
very pale straw in the glass, the nose showed citrus, stonefruit, sun-warmed
hay, rose petal and a touch of red capsicum.
The pallet had great grip courtesy of the early picked fruit. The subtleties of this wine would be lost on
many who grew up drinking fruity Marlborough Sauv Blancs.
De Sours top label is La Source. La Source Blanc 2010 has the same blend as
its less prestigious cousin, but the fruit and terroir is markedly
different. It is a richer golden colour,
thanks to the time it spent in new oak. Vanilla, passionfruit, pineapple, sweet
basil and limes all made for an intoxicating bouquet. This follows through onto the pallet, and I
spent some time thinking how much better the wine would be if I had a Margherita
Pizza (with buffalo mozzarella) to go with it.
Many of the UK pundits rate Ch. De Sours Grand
Vin Rosé 2010. Jancis Robinson is on the
record as saying "...it’s the wine that kickstarted the rosé revolution”. On
its back label it proudly proclaims "Probably the best rosé in the world”. It’s a very pale pink, with a tinge of
strawberry juice. Like the sparkling,
the palate is all fresh red fruit and cream.
This is a serious rose.
Ch. de
Sours Grand Vin Rouge 2009 is 100% Merlot, something that doesn’t happen that
often. It’s a deep vibrant ruby red, and
the vibrancy carries through on the nose.
Dark fruits, violets, prunes, Indian spice, red cherries and mocha all
jostle for primary place in the bouquet thanks to nicely ripe fruit. The pallet is a little more savoury however,
heaps of mocha, red cherries and Black Forrest Gateaux here.
La Source du Chateau de Sours Vin Rouge
2008 is a mouthful to say, and a tasty mouthful at that. 80% Merlot, 20% Cab Franc, it showed a deep
ruby red with a crimson tinge. There
were many different aromas and flavours dancing round, but oak seemed to be
bullying them a little at the moment.
Pork, confected fruit, leather, tobacco, and vanillin oak all showed at
different times while tasting. This
would benefit from a good wee while in the cellar.
Martin has another property in Bordeaux, in the far more
exclusive St Emilion, where some of the world’s most expensive wine is grown. It’s a small property, as land sells for
around €2000000. It’s also the only Bordeaux property I know
of part owned by a kiwi.
Clos Cantenac Petit Cantenac is 90% Merlot,
7% Franc, and balance Cab Sauv. This is
a very classy introduction to right bank Bordeaux. Melded fruit, spice, leather, cedar and cigar
box jostle on the nose. The pallet is a
good mix of savoury mushrooms, Christmas mince pies, red fruits, and
blackberries. 2500 bottles of this are
made each year, and New
Zealand is the second biggest market for it.
Clos Cantenac St Emilion Grand Cru 2008 is
100% Merlot, and was my favourite wine of the night. It’s had a bit of time in the bottle, but is
still a deep crimson/ purple in the glass.
The nose is a heady mixture of red berries, mocha, chocolate, cassis,
with an oloroso sherry like note coming through as well. The pallet is nicely refined, but quite
muscular, like a prop in a dinner suit.
Jammy fruits, blackcurrants, cassis, violets all play round here. There is oak, but it underlines the flavours
rather than dominates them. If you were
to consider building a cellar, this is one of the first wines I would recommend
to start. Its wonderful value for a Bordeaux, and will reward
careful cellaring for up to 10 years.
The tasting was a good reminder that old
world wines are about more than fruit.
It’s there, but there is also so much more to the wine.