By Raymond Chan
The concept of this tasting was devised around a friendly comparison, but not a ‘shootout', between these two fine Hawke's Bay labels. Once arch enemies, Church Road and Corbans now fall under the Pernod-Ricard umbrella, and an excellent synergy now exists between the two identities. Interestingly, in recent times, we have seen Church Road grow from strength to strength. Though a relatively small-production winery, the reputation that has Church Road is an extremely high one, almost boutique in style, and quite a standout out in consumer awareness terms for the parent Montana group of labels. Winemaker Chris Scott has furthered the Chardonnay and Bordeaux-varietal base that Church Road is centered on, and is now producing some exciting wines from the likes of Viognier and Syrah. Once the second largest name in New Zealand, Corbans has been relegated to secondary status now. But things are astir. The wines under the Corbans Private Bin and Cottage Block labels have never disappointed in their quality. But the lack of marketing emphasis has let the wines, and the wine loving public down. Winemaker Tony Robb is putting his stamp on the style, these wines being elegant , modern and designed to go with food. They are a great contrast with the relatively bigger, riper, fruitier and more open wines of Church Road. It is wonderful to see a renaissance with Corbans, but in fact both labels are emerging into the spotlight, as this tasting showed. My notes follow on the wines tasted. They were presented in pairs, not blind.
Pinot Gris
A new variety for both winemakers, still coming to an understanding of how it performs in Hawke's Bay, and how to show the variety to its best. The Church Road Pinot Gris 2008 (17.5/20) was very youthful with fermentation esters on a broad palate with tropical fruit and pear flavours, albeit tightly bound still. Off dry with 7g/l rs. More preferred by the group of tasters was the Corbans Private Bin Pinot Gris 2007 (my score 17.0+/20) with its tight minerally, stonefruit and steely style, a wine with definite and well-handled, winemaker input, this was all restraint and class. At 5 g/l, a little drier. Two divergent styles, the Church Road more ‘typical' of the style popular at present.
Aromatic Wines
What appeared to be an unfair comparison at first, but a surprisingly close one in terms of preference. The Corbans Private Bin Gewurztraminer 2007 (19.0-/20) was sheer elegance and refinement with its rose petal and floral flavours on a beautifully textured palate, fresh with excellent acidity and very long with excellent nuances of spice. The Church Road Reserve Viogner 2007 (18.0/20) was the second release of this label. Shyer and more pulled-back in winemaker input, this still had excellent weight, depth and warmth. The apricot and ginger fruit emerged significantly in glass, and this should blossom with time. Both wines excellent expressions of their varieties.
Sauvignon Blanc
Well-informed consumers appreciate the difference Hawke's Bay Sauvignon Blanc has to the full, pungent, bracing Marlborough versions. The Cottage Block Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (17.5/20) from a cooler site, with 100% barrel fermentation and lees stirring, was tight and fine-grained with steely, minerals, stonefruits and herbs. Quite understated, this had plenty of acidity and a little bitterness adding to the piquancy. From a warmer site, made in a modern white Bordeaux-style, with barrel fermentation and solids, plus %0% new oak, the Church Road ‘Cuve Series' Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (18.5/20) displayed more tropical fruit, spicy oak on an ‘out-there' complex palate. Warm, broader, full-bodied and a little lift, this was very Graves-like. The differences between the two wins were more attributable to site, according to the two winemakers.
Chardonnay
Again, site had a significant part to play in the characteristics of these two wines, as both employed similar winemaking. From a warmer, inland fruit source, spending 14 months in 50% new oak, the Church Road Reserve Chardonnay 2006 (19.0+/20) was powerful and layered with ripe mealy fruit, nutty notes and plenty of balanced toasty oak which melded with the fruit richness. Quite full and lush, this superb wine impressed with its immediacy. The Cottage Block Chardonnay 2006 (18.5/20) was sourced from coastal fruit and spent 12 months in 40% new oak. A very modern, tight and elegant wine showing complex sulphide nuances to the minerally, nutty citrussy fruit. Exceptionally fine textured, tight and steely on its long finish. Geoff Kelly has described the former as a (theoretical) "grand cru Meursault" and the latter as a "Corton-Charlemagne-look alike". These descriptions could hardly be more apt.
Syrah
Two expressions of the exciting Syrah variety manifest here, again representative of house style. The Cottage Block Syrah 2006 (18.5-/20), from the Red Stone vineyard, displayed tight, white pepper aromas and flavours, very intense, with black fruits and floral notes and an ultra fine textured palate. In the coolers spectrum, compared with the following wine, and beautifully aromatic for it. The Church Road Reserve Syrah 2006 (19.0-/20), from the Red Stone site with 17% Gimblett Gravels fruit, picked riper and given more oak, was in the black fruit spectrum, still with spice and pepper, but softer, broader, more open and approachable. The wine possessed excellent grip and structure. As we explore the boundaries of where Syrah can go, these two fit in very comfortably in the quality variations.
Bordeaux Style
With these two wines, vintage character was a major influence in the styles of the wines made. In 2006, the aromatic Cabernet Franc performed so well that it formed a large part of the blend in the Cottage Block Cabernet/Merlot 2006 (18.0+/20). The wine is 45% CS, 25% CF and 30% Me. A concentrated and tightly bound wine, this was classically proportioned with black fruits, floral nuances and complex earthy notes. A touch of acidity and a lean structure will ensure good development potential. The Church Road Reserve Cabernet/Merlot 2005 (19.0/20) displayed the fuller, riper fruit flavours and the benefit of an extra year of age. Rich and succulent fruit (for Bordeaux varieties!), black berry fruits and dark plums, dense and structured, but supple with it.
Tom 2004
As a treat, we were shown pre-release, the ‘Tom' 2004, the flagship New Zealand red for the Pernod-Ricard group, made at Church Road. The ‘Tom' 2004 (19.0+/20) is Cabernet Sauvignon predominant and is aged in over 75% new oak. The lessons from the Cordier partnership for Montana have resulted in a wine of Bordeaux classed-growth dimensions and style. Rich, complex, earth-tinged, very ripe blackcurrant flavours, this possessed great concentration and structure. Very much in the traditional, designed to age c