We tend to think of the Gimblett Gravels as a region
that is particularly suited to the red Bordeaux
varietals of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and to Syrah as well. Yet the white varieties - Chardonnay and now
Viognier have a strong case for their suitability to this area with a number of
fine examples of each from several producers.
Craggy Range has certainly achieved excellent
results with both varieties and the 2009 vintage sees this label head down the
path of finesse and elegance. While the
vintage may be expressing its character in the 2009 whites, are the wines from
Craggy Range demonstrating the direction towards greater purity of fruit, and
with it transparency to allow terroir to be speak, as has been the trend over
the past several releases? Whatever the
reason, there is no denying this movement towards more elegant and refined wines,
very suited to enjoyment with good cuisine.
We offer two 2009 Craggy Range whites from the Gimblett Gravels,
previewing what lies in store with the coming releases of reds and ‘Prestige’
wines:
Craggy Range ‘Gimblett Gravels’
Hawke’s Bay Viognier 2009
The first release of Viognier from Craggy Range
was the 2007 vintage. Only 130 cases
were made then, and the quantity has not increased significantly, as winemaker Rod Easthope has approximately only 1 hectare of
Viognier grapes to draw from. The fruit is
totally hand-picked and whole bunch pressed before fermentation and maturation
in seasoned French oak barriques for 6 months.
At 14.2% alc, this is a wine with presence, yet elegance and a sense of
delicacy. Brilliant pale straw yellow in
colour, this has an intense and wonderfully fresh nose of apricots, ginger and
honeysuckle, along with an exotic musk note and nuances of herbs and
minerals. Dry on palate, this is very
refined and still tightly constructed, with soft grip matched by gently honied
and floral fruit notes which are sweet and simultaneously refreshing. The delicacy of its expression is carried
through to the long finish. This is very
different to the majority of other Viogniers which are hot, alcoholic and
clumsy. The wine will be a very good
accompaniment to firmer fish dishes and to Parma ham and other cured meats.
Craggy Range
‘Gimblett Gravels’ Chardonnay 2009
Early-ripening Chardonnay sites in Hawke’s Bay had to
deal with botrytis pressure from February rain events. However following favourable March weather
allowing advanced picking, this combined with the most strict selection, meant
extremely healthy fruit came available for this sleek and slim-line wine that
bears more than a passing resemblance to first-class Chablis at the premier cru
level. Rod
Easthope sees this as “medium weight, minerally, fresh and
beguiling”; it is “our tightest Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay yet”. And we concur, seeing it extremely pale and
youthful in appearance, the bouquet elegant and restrained with white
stonefruit and citrus notes underscored
by subtle herb nuances. Here the palate
elegant with citrus, mealy, nutty and oak-spice flavours bound tightly and energized
with crisp acidity. The balance is spot
on for perfect proportion and this will keep well for 4-6 years, all the while
matching creamy sauced seafood dishes.
Made from clones 95, 96, 15 and Mendoza,
whole-bunch pressed and wild yeast fermented to 13.35% alc, and given 10 months
aging in 23% new French barriques. A
stylish beauty.