By Raymond Chan
While the warm-climate ‘Prestige' wines of Craggy Range always create immense interest from the enthusiast consumer on their release, the cool-climate wines do not quite capture the same degree of excitement. Yet, it is these wines which require greater precision, as their clear-cut nature is unforgiving in terms of wine faults. The cool-climate wines if anything need to be better than the warmer wines. On a world-wide perspective, the cooler-climate varietals are indeed ‘hot'. The wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris to a lesser degree, and Pinot Noir are receiving unparalleled attention at present. So it was with much anticipation among a group of knowledgeable wine consumers that Craggy Range senior winemaker Adrian presented his latest wines. The wines and Adrian with his particular sense of humour and expertise, certainly lived up to the expectations previously releases have created. Being ‘single-vineyard single-minded', the Craggy Range wines were all quite individual. Following are my notes on the wines tasted.
Flight One: Sauvignon Blanc
The Craggy Range ‘Avery' Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (18.0-/20) had excellent balance of punchy tropical fruit and minerally flavours on a fresh, crisp palate. Gooseberries and limes, with the ability to keep well for the variety. With more complexity built in from thr partial whole bunch, wild yeasts and oak contact, the Craggy Range ‘Te Muna' Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (18+/20) was softer, riper by a touch and weightier with more textural qualities to the wine. Nectarine-like flavours and oak came through in excellent proportion and nuance. Taking the winemaker input further, the Craggy Range ‘Te Muna' ‘Te Muna' Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (19.0/20) had more colour, far greater concentration and considerably more savoury, spicy, nutty elements to the aromas and flavours. More creamy in mouthfeel and with a roundness, the wine still retained freshness and zing. This ain't Sauvignon as we know it, and a great vinous experience for it!
Flight Two: Aromatics – Riesling and Pinot Gris
A wonderful flight of wines, the Riesling wines arranged by Adrian in order of ascending alcohol weight. First was the Craggy Range ‘Glasnevin Gravels' Waipara Riesling 2008 (18.0+/20) with 10% alc. and 32 g/l rs. Very pale, very light and tight with delicate lime and mineral notes. The balance of sweetness with acidity and delicacy of citrus, florals, minerals and limes put this squarely into the German-Mosel camp. A wine that has previously shown gorgeous jasmine floral and spice intracacies, and these will no doubt emerge. Marginally the most preferred Riesling for the group of tasters. Next was the yet-to-be released Craggy Range ‘Otago Station' Waitaki Valley Riesling 2008 (18.5+/20) with 10.9% alc. and 23 g/l rs. The beauty, drive and intensity of the lime and floral aromatics and flavours was the feature. Off dry, and great concentration and depth of the palate with limes and steel made this a cross between the Riesling styles from Germany and Austria fro me. Pipped into second preferred wine for the group of tasters. Next was the Craggy Range ‘Fletcher Family' Marlborough Riesling 2008 (18.0/20) at 11.4% alc. and 13.5 g/l rs. A drier wine with more breadth to the palate, though quite taut, giving a degree of austerity. Savoury citrus nuances with greater weight and mouthfeel came through. Equal third preferred for the group, any in my mind, the Australian take on Riesling expressed here. The final in the Rieslings presented was the Craggy Range ‘Rapaura Road' Marlborough Riesling 2008 (17.5/20) at 13.5% alc. and 3.1 g/l rs, made from 31 y.o. vines. Full, open and broader with ripe peach notes, apples and honey on the nose. The bouquet was quite magnificent. With more weight depth and warmth on the palate, this was the Alsace-styled wine in the line-up. Adrian felt this wine in particular had great cellaring ability. Third equally preferred of the Rieslings for the group. Finishing the flight was the Craggy Range ‘Otago Station' Pinot Gris 2008 (17.5/20), a wine still to be released. At 13.9% alc., and subtle barrel and lees work, this possessed great varietal characters, pears, stonefruits and a touch f spice on the nose. Dry, softer, warmer on the palate, with sufficient acidity and grip, this had yet to come together here.
Flight Three: Pinot Noir
All made similarly, these four Pinot Noirs were a study of site and ultimately terroir. Similar to the 2006, the Craggy Range ‘Calvert' Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2007 (18.5-/20) was full of juicy plump fruit flavours on an open and very accessible palate. Lovely lush dark fruits and supple extraction, with good freshness made this a crowd pleaser. It was the pipped into second preferred wine for the group of tasters. 13.9% alc., 10 months in 38% new oak. The Craggy Range ‘Sluicings' Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2007 (18.5/20) at 13.9% and also with 10 months in 36% new oak, from along the road from the ‘Calvert' site, was excellently lifted with florals and wild herb aromas on a firm, crisp and tightly bound palate. Florals, cherry fruit and thyme were displayed with less sweetness, but good intensity. However, of the four Pinot Noirs, this was second least preferred. The least preferred of the four wines for the group was the Craggy Range ‘Zebra' Bendigo Pinot Noir 2007 (18.5+/20). At 14.1% alc, this was matured for 10 months in 42% new oak. A little shy in expression with concentrated raspberry and cherry aromas, this had an intense core of fruit still to unfold. Tight, steely and minerally, this had savoury charry nuances, and as with many Bendigo wines, could handle more bottle age. The most popular wine of the flight was the Craggy Range ‘Te Muna' Martinborough Pinot Noir 2007 (18.5+/20). It was 13.5% alc., and spent 10 months in 38% new French oak. Deep ruby coloured, the wine had the most complex aromatic profile with rich dark berry fruit with savoury elements of stalk and game. The palate was more robust with its richness, and matched by the full textures from the tannin. Quite complete in proportion and in expression.