By Raymond Chan
One of this country’s truly aspirational and
inspirational wineries, Craggy Range has always captured wine lovers’
imaginations. The wines always aim at
the very highest quality and are benchmarks that also showcase what is
happening here to wine enthusiasts world-wide.
From an objective viewpoint, surely our best wines can share the
spotlight with the finest from any country?
And in doing so, Craggy Range wines must be there. And there is no doubt the wines create
immense interest from winegrowers to wine drinkers. If the best Craggy Range wines can not make
people more interested in fine wine, then nothing will! It was a great pleasure and privilege to have
managing director Steve Smith MW, the man with the aspirations and who is the
inspiration behind Craggy Range conduct this tasting of the latest ‘Prestige’
wine release at Regional Wines. Steve
has wonderful all-round knowledge and shares it with such an open manner, along
with good humour. Any time in a tasting
with Steve is indeed special.
The 2008 vintage was the focus of this release of ‘Prestige’
wines. The harvest was shaping up to be
one of high yields, necessitating the dropping of fruit to achieve quality and full
ripening in many regions, including Hawke’s Bay. Craggy Range embarked on this course very
early on, with 50% culled in vineyards where the fruit was destined for the top
tiers. The growing days were cool,
allowing fabulous aromatic build-up.
Warm evenings allowed the attainment of requisite heat, and in the final
analysis, the accumulation was greater than that of 2007. The character of the wines has turned out to
be more gentle and more refined. And as
intimated, wines possessing beautiful aromatic character. Craggy Range see the vintage as different to
the 2007s, may be even better, and capable of good aging. In Martinborough, the 2008 vintage is
regarded as one of the great and classic ones, practically perfect. With this vintage précis made, the tasting
was one approached with great anticipation.
We at Regional Wines have never had this number of ‘Prestige’
Collection wines at a single tasting.
Multiple vintages allowed a fascinating look at style evolution and
vintage characteristics. Following are
my notes on the wines tasted:
Flight One: Les
Beaux Cailloux Chardonnay
From a single stony-soiled block on the Gimblett
Gravels, planted to Clones 95 and 96. The
first was the new release Craggy Range ‘Les
Beaux Cailloux’ Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay 2008 (19.0+/20), at 14.7% alc,
wild yeast fermented and aged in 45% new French oak barriques for 14
months. Pale straw yellow in colour,
youthful in appearance, this had a very fine, but concentrated nose of white
stonefruits with citrus and mealy elements.
Tightly constructed on palate, this was very refined, yet had excellent
power and depth. Lovely citrus, mealy,
nutty flavours with excellent oak balance, interwoven into the fruit. A touch of alcohol noticeable, but well-checked
by steel, crisp acidity. A very long
finish completes this classy white burgundy styled wine which should develop
well over the next 5-6 years. The Craggy Range ‘Les Beaux Cailloux’ Gimblett
Gravels Chardonnay 2007 (19.0-/20), at 14.5% alc, indigenous yeast
fermented and aged in 54% new French oak for 17 months, was brilliant straw
lemon yellow in colour. This was full, and
solidly dense on bouquet with rich stonefruit kernel, peach and nutty oak
aromas. Full and powerful on palate,
this was bold with plenty of ripe peach, stonefruit and mealy flavours
reflecting the nose. Complexity from oak
spice interplay and hints of secondary nuttiness were developing. Great drinking over the next 4-6 years. Seen as feminine for the 2008 and masculine
for the 2007.
Flight Two: ‘Aroha’
Pinot Noir
Based on clones 115 and Abel, from the Te Muna Road
vineyard in Martinborough. ‘Aroha’ means
‘love’. The Craggy Range ‘Aroha’ Te Muna Road Pinot Noir 2008 (19.0/20), at
13.5% alc, 5% whole bunch, was native yeast fermented and aged 14 months in 37%
new French oak barriques. Medium deep
ruby red in colour, this had a beautifully elegant bouquet marked by floral
perfumes, and soft red fruits, penetrating yet poised on being ethereal. A wine of finesse allied to concentration,
depth and intensity, subtle, but rich flavours of red fruits with hints of
spices, earth and minerals were framed within a fine-textured structure still
with rawness and firmness. The long
finish and promise from the concentration will see this wine age 7-9 years
easily.
Flight Three: ‘Sophia’
2008-2004
A vertical tasting of the Merlot predominant wine,
from the Gimblett Gravels vineyard.
First was the new release, the Craggy
Range ‘Sophia’ Gimblett Gravels 2008 (18.5/20), at 14.4% alc, a blend of
89% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc, inoculated
yeast fermentation, the wine aged 18 months in 52% new French barriques. Brilliant deep ruby red in colour, the nose
was tightly bound but beautifully aromatic with plush, sleek dark plum and
savoury red fruits along with a new oak lift.
On palate, the wine was still restrained, needing to open up, but
clearly showing lovely sweet, ripe flavours of red and dark plums, red flowers,
all within a fine-grained, tightly packed structure. Excellent fresh acidity added to the
vibrancy. A wine that will develop
silken textures with fragrance and cedar over the next 12-15 years. The Craggy
Range ‘Sophia’ Gimblett Gravels 2007 (19.5-/20), at 14.3% alc, 81% Merlot,
10% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Malbec, inoculated and aged 18
months in 50% new French oak possessed a youth, dark purple red colour and a
very intense, fine bouquet of dark plum and berry fruits lifted with floral
nuances. Full-bodied, rich and dense,
with a highly structured palate, the balance of richness and extraction was
magical. Layers of flavour obviously
built in. A big wine, still with much to
show over the 15-20 years. Next was the Craggy Range ‘Sophia’ Gimblett Gravels 2006
(18.5-/20), at 14.1% alc, a blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 4%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Malbec, inoculated fermentation, the wine aged 19
months in 60% new French oak. Dark, deep
ruby red in colour, this had rich, deep inky aromas laced with savoury herb
notes hinting at secondary development.
Dark fruited on palate, this had currant notes with good fresh acidity
lending a steeliness to the fruit.
Well-structured, the tannins provided good grip and length. A wine that will develop greater elegance
over the next 10-12 years plus. The Craggy Range ‘Sophia’ Gimblett Gravels 2005
(19.5/20), at 14.1% alc, and a blend of 62% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc and 4%