By Raymond Chan
The
d’Arenberg winery of the McLaren Vale is a marvel. It’s output of a myriad of labels, each quite
individual in style and full of character is a tribute to the energy of the
Osborn family, now with Chester Osborn at the winemaking helm, but still
overseen by father d’Arry, now in his 80s.
The quality and personality of the wines can be attributable to a sense
of tradition, going back to 1912 when the family winemaking started. It is the resource of very old vines, dry
farmed and very small batch vinification that is the basis of what d’Arenberg
is all about today. The vines and wines
are attended to in the most natural and least intervened way possible, and the
resultant wines are not only traditional, but they utilise the modern, while
possessing a sense of a warm climate, which is natural for the varieties
planted and the McLaren Vale vignoble.
The current range of d’Arenberg wines available in New Zealand was
presented by Nick James-Martin, winemaker and brand ambassador for the Osborn
family. His technical overview allied
with wide market experience made for an entertaining and educational tasting
that in this instance especially highlighted the differences between the lasted
vintages. In summary, 2006 was a big,
even vintage, very highly regarded in quality and balance, 2007 a low yield
vintage with tight, concentrated ‘gritty’ wines and 2008 experiencing a
heatwave, the best wines picked before, giving wines with approachability. Following are my notes on the wines tasted:
Flight One: The Whites
Two whites
were presented, both with the white Rhone
varieties as their base. These varietals
have become a specialty for d’Arenberg.
The d’Arenberg ‘Money Spider’ Roussanne
2007 (18.0+/20), at 13.5% alc and 3.6 g/L rs, a small portion aged in
barrique, this was very pale straw in colour and had a bouquet of fresh limes
and citrus fruits with a lees-like nuance.
Dry on palate the flavour of limey fruit with notes of nuts sat on soft
textures. Bright with good acidity, this
was gently lively and very attractive with it.
Next was the d’Arenberg ‘Hermit
Crab’ Viognier/Marsanne 2007 (18.5-/20), at 13.5% alc, and 2.4 g/L rs, 58%
Viognier and 42% Marsanne, 8% of the fruit from the Adelaide Hills and the
Viognier partially B/F, this was pale straw green in colour and had a clean,
crisp, steely nose with delicate florals and subtle mineral notes. On palate, the orange blossom fruit gave way
to oak spice and a firmness of texture became more apparent. Acidity was a featuring component. A wine with substance.
Flight Two: Red Wines with Grenache
A trio of
wines including Grenache. Firstly the
ever-popular d’Arenberg ‘Stump Jump’
Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre 2008 (16.0/20), at 14.0% alc, fruit from South Australia, the
wine aged 12 months in seasoned large oak.
Bright ruby red with garnet hues, this had a moderately intense nose of
ripe, savoury, brambly red berry fruits with some lift. A medium-weighted wine, this had restrained
plumy flavours with jam and juicy raspberries and supple, rounded and lightish
tannins. An easy and accessible
wine. Next was the d’Arenberg ‘Custodian’ Grenache 2007 (17.0+/20), at 14.5% alc,,
aged 12 months in U.S. and French barriques and large casks, this was lightish
ruby red in colour with a gently vibrant, warm, aromatic nose of strawberries
and raspberries along with savoury, earthy elements. An elegant, tight wine, this showed some
concentration of earthy berry fruit with some grip and acid bite. This should age another 6-8 years. The third wine was the d’Arenberg ‘d’Arry’s Original’ Shiraz/Grenache 2006 (18.5/20), at
14.5% alc, 50% Shiraz and 50% Grenache, aged 9
months in U.S.
and French oak barriques and large casks, some new. Dark, deep ruby red in colour, this had a
full, solid and deep nose with inky black fruits and pepper, showing some
reductive notes, alongside ripe chocolate elements. Full on the palate with dark, spicy black
peppery fruit flavours, the tannins were substantial, but round and
supple. Inky and funky, this
full-bodied, traditionally-old styled wine was approachable now, but should
keep another decade. Made in a
time-honoured fashion, no doubt!
Flight Three: Cabernet Sauvignon-Based Wines
Three wines
with Cabernet Sauvignon, the first two being different vintages of the same
label. The d’Arenberg ‘High Trellis’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (17.5+/20), at
14.5% alc, aged 12 months in U.S. and French barriques and large casks, some
new, had a bright, impenetrable purple hued ruby red colour and a fresh,
elegant nose with deep, youthful, blackcurranty aromas complexed with a hint of
eucalypt and a touch of black ink.
Medium weighted and quite elegant, this was quite approachable with
moderate extraction, allowing the sweet blackcurrant and jam flavours
shine. Underneath, the firmness of
backbone and good acidity will enable 5-7+ years of cellaring. Next was the d’Arenberg ‘High Trellis’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (18.0+/20), at
14.0% alc, aged 18 months in seasoned U.S. and French barriques and large
casks. Impenetrable black red in colour,
this had a dense, voluminous nose of cassis and black ink reduction, along with
ripe chocolatey notes. A wine with
lovely ripe black fruits along with savoury secondary, funky characters, this
was a solid and dense wine with considerable structure. A traditional expression that will keep 7-9
years easily. The last wine of the
flight was the d’Arenberg ‘Galvo Garage’
Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot/Franc 2006 (19.0-/20), at 14.5% alc,
56% CS, 20% Me, 18% PV and 6% CF, with 32% of the fruit from the Adelaide
Hills, the wine aged 18 months in mainly 1 and 2 y.o. French barriques. This had an impenetrable purple hued ruby red
colour with a very refined, elegant nose of pure blackcurrants lifted with a
floral, violetty nuance. A wine with
classical proportion, this had beautifully ripened, blackcurranty fruit
flavours on fine-grained tannins, the fruit sweetness and freshness a
highlight. A superbly detailed, modern Bordeaux look-alike that
will keep 8-10 years.
Flight Four: The Shiraz Wines
Five Shiraz wines in order of
increasing interest. Firstly a pair of
the same label, different vintages. The d’Arenberg ‘Footbolt’ Shiraz 2008
(18.0+/20), at 14.5% alc, aged 12 months in U.S. and French barriques and large
casks, some new, was purple-hued ruby red in colour with an elegant, slightly
shy bouquet of peppery black fruits enhanced