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Wine Review

De Vogüe Red Burgundy

By Raymond Chan
The de Vogüe domaine is legendary. As one of the great producers of some of the very best burgundy wines, the domaine has a very strong following. The wines are highly sought-after, and to taste the wines of de Vogue is indeed a real privilege. The wines of de Vogue are superb expressions and interpretations of the terroir of the commune of Chambolle-Musigny. It was with great pleasure that we welcomed Jean-Luc Pepin, the export director to Regional Wines in a presentation of the wines of de Vogue. Jean-Luc, with his intimate knowledge of the vineyards, vintages and winery dazzled attendees. But it was the wines that were the stars of the tasting. Following are my notes on the wines tasted:

Flight One: 2004 Vintage


A cooler, wetter vintage for Burgundy, the Musigny vineyard hit by hail, destroying 40% of the crop. Jean-Luc described the wines in terms of balance between high minerality and sucrosity, the acidity being ‘cold’. The first wine was the de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny 2004 (17.0+/20) sourced mainly from 30+ y.o. vines from the 1.5 ha ‘Les Porlottes’ site as well as a little from the 1er crus of ‘Baudes’ and ‘Fuees’ blended in. Pale garnet in colour, this was soft and fragrant with florals and strawberries on the nose. An elegant wine, this was lush with red berried fruits but pronounced in acidity. A good tannin backbone was present and contributed length. Next was the de Vogue Musigny Grand Cru ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 2004 (18.5-/20). de Vogue owns 7.2 ha of the 10 ha site, of which 3.8 ha goes into the top label. Fuller and darker garnet red colour, this had a bouquet packed with dark berry fruit aromatics in a solid expression. Full and quite dense, the palate had luscious dark berry fruit flavours and still firmish tannins that will allow cellaring for at least another decade. On first impression, the wines came through as well-ripened, and without the dried herb character prevalent in most of the wines from this vintage. With air time, a cooler peppery note appeared in the glass.

Flight Two: 2006 Vintage


Following on from the outstanding 2005 vintage, 2006 has been carefully scrutinised by media, producer and enthusiast critics alike with the conclusion that it is a “classical, terroir-driven” vintage according to Jean-Luc. The first wine was the de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny 2006 (18.5/20), with 10-15% new oak. Purple hued ruby red in colour, this had tight and youthful dark berry fruit aromas and an elegant and fresh palate of good concentration and fine tannin grip. Supple and long, the freshness from the acidity was a key. Approx. 400 cases made. The de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2006 (18.5+/20), made from 2.8 ha of Musigny vines less than 25 y.o has a production of approx.. 500 cases. With 25-30% new oak, this was full and dark in colour, a little cloudy and a touch of garnet showing. A full, solid wine on bouquet, this had dark fruit and meaty characters on a dense, solid, but lusciously rich palate. Juicy, but moderated by tannins and textures, this was already beginning to come together. Next was the de Vogue Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2006 (19.0-/20) from 2.7 ha in the Chambolle portion of the vineyard from vine averaging 29 y.o. for around 420 cases. Aged for around 2 years in 40-45% new oak, this had a lighter ruby red colour, but intense and deep nose of dark berries and plums with florals and oak. A wine of real power and up-front fruit the flavours of bright, dark berry fruits were lush and obvious, wrapping around a deep core of tannin grip. Yet, this wine will age two decades easily. The final wine of the flight was the de Vogue Musigny Grand Cru ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 2006 (19.0+/20), which saw 40-45% new oak. Deep purple red in colour, this was a little shy on nose at first, but opened up to reveal a very concentrated, firm, but fresh nose with florals and dark fruits. An amazingly full wine on palate, the flavours of fruit were restrained, but very aromatic, with red fruits and florals. Extremely fine-grained, the huge extraction was present through the length of the palate, but exuded suppleness. This has a very long, nuanced finish.

Flight Three: 1999 Vintage


Described by Jean-Luc as a “gift from Mother Nature”, 1999 was an ideal vintage. The wines are now showing their full potential. The de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny 1999 (18.5+/20) was still youthful in appearance with purple hues to the colour. Very full on nose with lovely developed secondary aromas of forest floor and savoury fruit, this was a well-constructed wine on the palate with full and deep, sweet fruit flavours that were plump and rich, yet harmonised with fine, supple grip, to finish with dryness. The de Vogue Musigny Grand Cru ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 1999 (19.5/20) was not as dark, but went another step up with its beautifully scented aromatics and finesse. Complex secondary elements and brown spices merged with florals, red berry fruits and game nuances, and interest unfolded in the glass. Sensationally silky in texture, there structure was serious and significant behind the fruit, and the freshness and life of the wine will enable another decade ahead easily.
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Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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