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Wine Review

Paul Blanck – Excellent Alsace

By Raymond Chan
Though Domaine Paul Blanck can trace its origins back to Hans Blanck, the family’s Austrian ancestor who acquired vines in Alsace in 1610, it is the modern outlook of Frederic and Philippe, the new generation, that has overseen the progress and development of the domaine to a position of world recognition. With 36 hectares of plantings, and holdings in five grand cru sites, Domaine Paul Blanck is a significant one. The wines have proven to be of excellent quality, remarkable value, and combine the unique expression of the land with the up-to-date in winemaking. The use of screwcap closures on the entry level varietals is an example of the Blanck’s openness. Regional is very pleased to stock the wines. The following notes and scores are from a tasting of the current releases:

Introductory Wine


Paul Blanck Pinot Blanc d’Alsace 2003
12.5% alc. Pale straw yellow with a slight pinkish hue. Quite full and robust nose with stonefruits and some SO2. Dry, full, soft and openly structured. Stonefruit flavours with some spice undertones, a little nuttiness and some SO2. Full-bodied, lowish acidity, a solid example. 16.5+/20

Rieslings


Paul Blanck Riesling 2004
12.5% alc. Pale straw yellow with green hues. Excellent nose, spotlessly clean with pure floral, mineral and lime aromas. Fresh and intense. Dry, with high acid zestiness, fresh and elegant, with lovely fruit expression. A little light on body, but with good length. 17.5+/20

Paul Blanck Riesling ‘Rosenbourg’ 2002
12.5% alc. Straw yellow colour. Quite intense aromas with fruit and some sulphide amalgam. Some nutty oxidative elements too. Dry with reasonably rich fruit on palate, some spice notes. Nutty elements, some oxidation. Good freshness and acidity, minerals, and no botrytis commonly found in many examples from the vintage. 17.0-/20

Paul Blanck Riesling ‘Furstentum’ 2001
12.5% alc. Light golden yellow. Some rubbery sulphide aromas, but also intense toast and petrolly notes along with florals and honey from some botrytis. Dryish palate with real richness with honey and toast. Good acidity and freshness along with the development. This breathes well and becomes cleaner with an integration. The most popular of the Rieslings for the group of tasters. 17.5/20

Pinot Gris


Paul Blanck Pinot Gris 2004
13.0% alc. Pale straw yellow colour. Fresh ripe stonefruit aromas with tropicals, good depth and quite solid. Some SO2 noticeable. Dryish on palate, good body and good acidity. There is richness and depth along with a broad, mouthfilling palate. Fresh and youthful, attractive. 17.0+/20

Paul Blanck Pinot Gris ‘Patergarten’ 2003
13.0% alc. Light golden straw colour, with depth. Gentle, soft, but full honied aromas, showing a warmth. Dryish on palate, soft and rich, quite broad, attractive honey and stonefruit flavours. Quite pure. Also shows the warmth of the vintage. Well received by the group of tasters. 17.0-/20

Paul Blanck Pinot Gris ‘Schlossberg’ 2001
14.0% alc, 90.1 g/l rs. Light straw golden colour. Very tightly bound on the nose, and more minerally in expression. A little toasty development showing, and a touch of oxidation. Off dry on palate. Full, soft and weighty. The flavours are of ripe tropical fruits, honey and a minerally aspect. Quite broad, but there is good acidity to balance and enliven the mouthfeel. The most preferred of the Pinot Gris wines by the group. 17.5+/20

Gewurztraminer


Paul Blanck Gewurztraminer 2004
13.0% alc. Pale straw yellow colour. Fresh, elegant aromatic nose, quite shy, but with good spice notes. Dryish on palate, a little SO2 over the florals and spice expression. Quite tightly bound at present, and along with the acidity results in a hard, leaner mouthfeel. This will soften. 16.5+/20

Paul Blanck Gewurztraminer 2003
13.0% alc. Full, golden yellow colour with depth. Very soft and full on nose with ripe tropical fruit and creaming soda aromas. Dryish, soft and luscious with florals and creaming soda flavours. Lovely honied elements, with depth and length. Lowish acidity, typical of the variety and a result of the hot and dry vintage? 17.5+/20

Paul Blanck Gewurztraminer ‘Altenbourg’ 2004
13.5% alc. Light golden straw colour. Tightly bound on the nose, with lovely floral and Turkish Delight aromas, some SO2 also noticeable. Dryish, quite soft, but with sufficient acidity for freshness and balance. Lovely liveliness in fact. Excellent depth of fruit, good body and length, This should develop well. 18.0+/20

Paul Blanck Gewuztraminer ‘Furstentum’ Vieilles Vignes 2001
14.0% alc. Light golden yellow colour. Aged bouquet, with savoury root ginger and hair oil aromas. Some honey notes and botrytis, complex, soft. Medium dryish, very soft, rich and honied on palate. Good development flavours with hair oil and creaming soda along with fresh lychee elements. Soft, lowish acidity, quite unctuous. Fully developed, but drinking well for some time. 18.5-/20
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DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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