By Raymond Chan
As one of the largest landowners in Burgundy with
40 hectares in Chablis and over 70 hectares in the Cote d’Or, as well as having
a strong negociant business, Domaine Joseph Drouhin can offer a perspective of
any particular vintage across different appellations and from village level to
grand cru that few other producers can.
With winemaking under the watchful eye of Veronique Drouhin, the domaine
continues to releases some of the most attractive, perfumed and elegant red
burgundies as has been the style for many years. The 2006s were certain to suffer in
appreciation following the stupendous 2005 vintage, but their delightful
fruitiness is becoming more highly regarded as the wine evolve in the
bottle. Chablis as a region and under
the Drouhin label has continued to grow from strength to strength, with a run
of excellent vintages in the last several years. It was with a degree of anticipation that we
looked at a range of Chablis wines and red burgundies from Drouhin, especially
now, as the wines are difficult to find.
The tasting was originally scheduled for May, earlier this year, so the
benefits of bottle age came from the postponement of the tasting then. At the tasting, the wines were served ‘blind’
in a progression culminating in the grand crus.
Here are my notes on the wines as in the order tasted:
Flight
One: Chablis
An appealing flight of wines that showed typicity
of Chablis character. First was the Drouhin Chablis 1er ‘Vaillons’ 2006
(17.5-/20), one of the most highly regarded premier crus, 105 ha to the SW of
the town. Pale in colour, this was soft
and elegant with lovely honey and floral notes to the mineral and slate. Showing delicacy and some length. Next was the Drouhin Chablis 1er ‘Montmains’ 2006 (18.0+/20), a 37 ha site to
the SW of the town. It was fresh, crisp,
racy and lifted with a youthful and bracing edge. A classical Chablis, showing great zing,
quite mouthwatering. Some tasters noted
a slight volatile lift, but on palate, everything you’d expect. This should improve over the next 3-5 years.
Next was the Drouhin Chablis 2006
(17.0+/20). 12.5% alc., from domaine
fruit, this was youthfully pale in colour, but quite open, broad and accessible
with plenty of flint and mineral notes along with a distinct leesy
component. Forward and drinking well, as
a village wine should, but will last another 3-4 years. Final wine of the flight and easily most
preferred for the group of tasters was the Drouhin
Chablis GC ‘Les Clos’ 2006 (18.5+/20).
Straw yellow with golden hues, this was full and rich with oily oaky
spice elements on the bouquet. Full,
textured and with good weight and power on palate, the intense minerally fruit
was matched by the fresh acid and distinctive barrel fermentation notes. Good long, rich and nutty finish. This will develop well over the next 5-7
years.
Flight
Two: Cote de Beaune
This composed four wines that were
‘pretty’. Many tasters felt they were
drinkable now, and quite elegant, if not light.
The soft red fruit expression of the Cote de Beaune was obvious. First was the Drouhin Volnay 1er ‘Clos des Chenes’ 2006 (17.0+/20), from one of
the best sites, 15.41 ha, on the southern boundary next to Monthelie. Light ruby red, this displayed soft, gentle
pretty floral and red fruit aromas on a gentle, but still well-bound palate of
moderate tannin extraction, fine-grained, however, with some depth and
length. The most preferred of the flight
for the tasters. Next was the Drouhin Beaune 1er ‘Clos des Mouches’ 2006
(16.5+/20), from notable 25.18 ha site on the Pommard border. A lightish pale ruby red colour, this had
complex herb and stalk notes along with an earthiness and spice to the bouquet
and palate. A touch of reduction. Quite a strong extractive element came
though, the fruit not quite matching the tannins. May come together well in 4-6 years, but at
this stage the least preferred of the flight for the group of tasters. Next was the Drouhin Beaune 1er ‘Greves’ 2006 (18.0+/20), from the to rated
31.33 site west and upslope of the town.
Gentle ruby red in colour, this had a beautifully aromatic nose with
juicy red fruits and bon-bons, decent concentration showing. Altogether more serious with richness of
fruit and structure, this will keep well over the next 6-8 years. Final wine in the flight was the Drouhin Savigny-les-Beaune 2006 (17.5-/20),
village wine from north of Beaune. Still
some primary purple, this was firm and intense with fresh red fruits and a
touch of stalk and herb. Somewhat tight
and austere, this had good concentration of sweet fruit and good fresh
acidity. A very good example from an
appellation that can be prone to coarseness.
Flight
Three: Cote de Nuits
As could be expected, a step up in ripeness and
depth of fruit, the aromas and flavours tending to the darker cherry/berry
fruit spectrum. These wines possessed
sufficient depth and concentration along with grip to allow some aging. First was the Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 2006 (17.5-/20), a negociant wine. Light ruby red in colour, this had an
attractive nose redolent of flowers, cherries and dark berries. Fine, firm tannins feature on the palate,
lending an austerity. Lifted florals
show, but essentially a wine built on its structure. Described by several tasters as
ethereal. Next was the Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er ‘Amoureuses’
2006 (19.0-/20), from the 5.4 ha site many think should be a grand
cru. Light ruby red with a touch of
garnet. This possessed a nose of nuanced
layers of perfumes with florals then savoury complexities emerging. Concentrated on palate with dark cherry and
berry flavours intertwined with floral and spicy oak notes, this had intensity,
length and real interest. Some reduction
was noted by some tasters, but in a complexing role. Then came the most preferred wine of the
flight for the tasters, the village Drouhin
Vosne-Romanee 2006 (18.0+/20). Home
to some of Burgundy’s
star sites, the wines have an opulence and succulence, as did this. Full, open and berryish with attractive game
notes alongside the dark fruits, this was a generous wine, a cherry liqueur
note adding sweetness. Open, accessible,
and with good, honest length.
Flight
Four: Grand Cru Burgundy
The epitome of the region is the range of
grand cru wines. All were ageworthy and
in fact required bottle age to show their true worth. Firstly, the Drouhin GC Musigny 2006 (19.0-/20), a 10.86 ha site at the southern
end of Chambolle M