By Raymond Chan
In this
modern world of wine, vintage variation is less. Improvements in viticulture especially is
raising the quality level of all wines, such that disastrous harvests are very
seldom seen. Even in difficult years, there are good wines to be found. 2006 and 2007 for red burgundy could never live
up to the quality of the superlative 2005s.
However, the 2006s have come into their own. How about 2007? A very cool growing season with some rain
leading to mildew and grey rot, requiring much vineyard work, picking at the
best time and strict selection. The
wines are seen as light, but fresh. The
Drouhin house style of elegance and feminine perfumes can sometimes suit such
lighter years. It was with great
interest that we approached this tasting of 2007s from one of our most
dependable producers. My notes on the
wines follow:
Flight One: The 2006 ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noirs
This was our
last look at the 2006 ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noirs, an interesting and continuing
experiment where the fruit from the ‘Calvert’ vineyard on Felton Road was given to Blair Walter,
Mike Weersing and Adrian Baker of Felton
Road, Pyramid
Valley and Craggy Range
to vinify. Wines that displayed
winemaker signature were evident and on subsequent tasting, continued to be
displayed consistently. The Craggy Range
the fullest and fruitiest, the Felton
Road the most ‘burgundian’ and the Pyramid Valley the most restrained and tightly
bound. Our last bottles on hold were
opened as pre-tasters for this tasting and served blind. First was the Pyramid Valley ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noir 2006 (18.0+/20),
at 14.2% alc, 100% destemmed, 15 months in 33% new French barriques. Bright ruby with garnet hues, this was shy
and tight, but had a concentrated core to the nose of complex mushroom and
forest-floor aromas and savoury red fruits.
On palate, fine tight and linear, secondary in expression with autumnal
fruits, the acidity still prominent.
Will this still unfold out of its austere style? The least preferred of the three on this
showing for the group of tasters. Next
was the Craggy Range ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noir 2006 (18.5/20), at 14.3% alc, 100% destemmed,
9 months in 45% new French oak. Bright,
limpid garnet red with ruby hints. Very
even and seamless on the nose, rich, ripe, sweet-smelling with lifted berry and
plum aromas complexed by secondary forest-floor characters. This was full, lusciously fruited and quite
open, yet with a soft density.
Sufficient grip to provide good line and length. The second preferred for the tasters. Final wine of the flight was the Felton
Road
‘Calvert’ Pinot Noir 2006 (19.0/20), 13.5% alc, 24% whole bunch, 11 months
in 33% new French oak. Lightish garnet
red with ruby hues, this had a full and complex nose, soft, intense and
enveloping with florals, spices and savoury red fruits. Elegant, but concentrated on palate, this had
depth to the savoury secondary complexities, yet it retained freshness and good
acidity. Very good line and length. The most preferred of the three wines in the
flight.
The winemaker
signature and style of the wines has been consistently expressed at all
tastings of the three wines together as at this occasion, however, the
differences seem to be more subtle as the wines develop. The secondary characters are softening the
individuality, and the wines more integrated, the tannin structure showing
signs of resolution. Is the terroir of
the ‘Calvert’ site exerting itself now?
The other question posed was regarding their longevity. The three wines were on a plateau of
development. Some tasters felt they
would not age too much longer, though wines in this stage can keep very well,
was another line of thought.
Flight Two: Drouhin 2007 Cote
de Beaune
Four wines
from the Cote de Beaune. First served
was the Drouhin Volnay 1er ‘Clos des
Chenes’ 2007 (17.0+/20), 13.0% alc, domaine fruit, vines 39 y.o., 14-18
months in 20% new French oak. Bright,
light ruby red with purple hues to the heart, youthful in appearance. This had a tight, intense nose of bright red
fruits, cherries and strawberries, a touch of sulphur which blew off. Elegant on palate, this was tight and
intense, though linear and slightly narrowed with a firmness from the
acidity. Moderate tannin grip, and
medium length finish. Keep 4-6
years. The second preferred of the
flight for the group of tasters. Next
was the Drouhin Savigny-les-Beaune 2007
(16.0/20), 13.0% alc, not domaine fruit, 12-15 months in 10% new French
oak. Pale ruby red, very even in
colour. This had a light, fresh, brash
nose of red fruits with a stalk-herb note providing evidence of coolness, An up-front, fruit-driven wine, with coolish
red fruits, more simplistic and not quite the nuance.. Clean and fresh in an angular presentation. Drink over the next 3-4 years. The Drouhin
Beaune 1er ‘Clos des Mouches’ 2007 (17.5+/20), at 13.0% alc, domaine wine,
vines 39 y.o., 14-18 months in 20% new French oak was pale ruby red in colour
with a fine, firm, almost pinched, but intense nose of soft red fruits. A touch of reduction which dissipated
quickly. On palate quite supple and with
a plumpness of soft red fruits and plum notes, all in proportion and with a
completeness. This should keep well for
6-8 years easily. The most preferred of
the flight for the group of tasters.
Final in the flight was the Drouhin
Beaune 1er ‘Greves’ 2007 (17.0+/20), at 13.0% alc, domaine wine, vines 24
y.o. average, 14-18 months in 20% new French oak. Ruby red with some good depth. Soft and elegant on nose with gentle, soft
red fruits in harmony. Some dried herb
elements too. Tight and elegant on
palate, red berry fruits and atouch of stalk.
Fresh, with good acidity and some obvious extraction, giving a dry, firm
finish. This will keep 5-7 years.
This was a
flight of modest wines, light in weight and not particularly rich in
expression. The wines were fresh and
still youthful, the fruit very clean and correct. However their lack of fruit
depth will mean they will not age into much more. Probably best to drink these young. The best wine possessed sufficient ripeness
and a relatively plump structure.
Flight Three: Drouhin 2007 Cote
de Nuits
The remaining
four Drouhin wines, from the Cote de Nuits, all essentially grand cru level. The Drouhin
Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru 2007 (18.5/20), at 13.5% alc, domaine wine from
22 y.o. vines, aged 14-18 months in 20% new French oak, was medium deep ruby
red with a pale edge. Possessing a
lightish bouquet of savoury red fruits and hints of game, this had some
depth. On palate quite elegant in