ITEM:
TOTAL:
Wine Review

Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 1991 – 2006: Including Esk Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2005 – 2007

By Raymond Chan
Unique is a word used easily in the wine scene, but some wines are more unique than others! Esk Valley’s ‘The Terraces’ is one such wine. The steep north-facing site behind the Esk Valley winery was terraced by Robert Bird who founded the original Glenvale winery on the site in the 1940s. After disuse, it was replanted by Villa Maria in 1989 with a mix of 50% Merlot, 25% Malbec, 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, which first cropped in 1991. Finding the Cabernet Sauvignon unsuitable, it was replaced by Merlot after the 1994 harvest. Expansion of the site to the original 1940s limits sees ‘The Terraces’ at 43% Malbec, 35% Merlot and 22% Cabernet Franc. Since the 1998 harvest, the three varieties are co-fermented to yield a true single site vineyard blend. Fermentation is finished in new barriques and the wine spends 17 to 22 months in oak, depending on vintage. Grant Edmonds oversaw the first vintages, but Gordon Russell has been responsible for the wine since. The wine is one of the few in this country that features Malbec at its core and its rarity allows it to be offered for sale by the en primeur method. It was a privilege to taste the complete line-up of ‘The Terraces’ to date with winemaker Gordon Russell and assistant Todd Payne. Preceding the vertical tasting, there was a mini-vertical of the latest three vintages of the Esk Valley Reserve Chardonnay. Here are my notes from this wonderful experience.

Esk Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2005 - 2007


Gordon’s aim with his Reserve Chardonnay is a wine with the ability to age. Finesse and power are attributes that contribute towards this. The Esk Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2005 (19.0/20) sourced from mainly Ngakirikiri Gimblett Gravels fruit, with some Puketapu fruit, WBP, was aged 11 months in 30% new French oak and 70% underwent MLF. Seen by Gordon as the most elegant, this was still pale, with full, rich, quite complete mealy, toasty aromas with toasty oak and nutty lees notes. Broader and softening now, this was mouthwatering with its sulphide complexities and length. The Esk Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2006 (18.5/20) is from half Bayview fruit with half Ngakirikiri Gimblett Gravels fruit, which underwent wild yeast fermentation and aging in oak for 11 months with 85% MLF. From a hotter year, producing bigger wines. I saw elegance, fine mineral and mealy fruit and very fine oak handling. A wine of refinement and elegance., length and a little heat on finish. The Esk Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2007 (19.0-/20) was 61% Bayview fruit and 39% Ngakirikiri, spending 11 months in 35% new barrels and 68% undergoing MLF. Gordon saw this as the most powerful of the Chardonnays. This was still very youthful and unformed with pure mineral and tight citrus fruit characters on the nose. On the palate, it showed is concentration and depth with power. Still tight, and still to unfold from its white stonefruit flavour. But the potential was obvious.

Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 1991 – 2006


The decision to go from oldest vintage to latest vintage is chosen to demonstrate the evolution of style towards better things. Improvements in viticulture and vinification raise the bar and to see this progression is a positive thing. Also the delicacy of older, complex flavours can be overwhelmed by the exuberance of youth. This is an accepted way of showing verticals in the New World. The more often seen Old World stability and constancy of style of a wine over the years lends it to showing from younger vintages to older. The Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 1991 (18.0/20) was a vineyard blend of the four varietals co-fermented after one pick. A high Malbec content, 12% alc., 150 cases made. Still dark coloured, this had a full, plump secondary fruit expression with cedar and earth plus meaty overtones. Rich and quite unctuous, the plump berry fruits and cooked plum notes were very attractive. Tannins beginning to soften out. The result of a cooler season due to the Mt Pinatubo eruption, the Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 1992 (16.5-/20) again expressed a high Malbec component, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but no Cabernet Sauvignon. 12.5% alc., 200 cases made. Lighter garnet red colour, this was obviously less ripe with leaf, herbs and cool berry fruits. Lighter in weight, a little narrowed, the acidity showing and gentle tannin residue, its fragrance was a feature. The Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 1994 (17.0+/20) was the produce of a return to warmer seasons. This was the last release with Cabernet Sauvignon. 12.5% alc., 250 cases made. Garnet hued red, this was fresh, though with a little leaf and herb notes to the red curranty fruit. Still brash, the brightness of the wine with fresh acidity and still firm and tight tannin structure meant this would still hold. It was generally felt that the first three vintages demonstrated Cabernet influence or signs of cooler fruit. The 1992 was the only wine that there was anguish over whether to bottle as ‘The Terraces’.

1995 was a top vintage for those who harvested before the rain in Hawke’s Bay. The Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 1995 (19.0+/20), a blend of 45% Merlot, 35% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Franc, at 13.5% alc, and 270 cases made, shows this quality. Youthful black red still, this was full with ripe plummy fruits with spice and earth complexity. Plump on the palate, this was dense, powerful and possessed plenty of tannins to resolve. A wine nearing the middle of its plateau. The hottest summer on record, 1998 produced powerful wines that were controversial as to their ageworthiness for many critics. The Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 1998 (19.0+/20) was the first vintage to have a predominance of Malbec at 45%, the other varieties being 35% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. At 14.0% alc, 300 cases were made. The wine retains its dark red colour and surprisingly is one of elegance and fresh, tight, dark berried aromas and flavours. The taanins are extremely fine-grained and the huge extract lends immense concentration and power. No hurry on this vintage, another decade and a half ahead with no worries. As is often the case, a cool summer saved by a warm autumn saw 2000 as a very good vintage. A Malbec dominant wine, the Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 2000 (18.5-/20) saw a return to a true vineyard blend, hence exact proportions are not possible. With 13.5% alc, 250 cases were made. Impenetrable ruby red in colour, this had perfumes, freshness and primary dark berry fruits all a little restrained at present. An elegantly sized wine, this was tight, classy and classical in proportion, with decent acidity. Good concentration and firm, this was an Englishman’s style! This middle flight was middle ground for ‘The Terraces’. A settling of style could be seen with these wines.

The latter vintages of ‘The Terraces’ show an increasing level of density in the wines and they will no doubt show the influence of screwcap closures. 2002 was the first vintage bottles under screwcap. How this will affect aging in the way compared to cork sealed wines is yet to be settled. The Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 2002 (19.5/20) was picked at the highest levels of sugar and is described by Gordon as “masculine and California-like”. On the label it has 14.9% alc., but according to Gordon, it is around 15.4% alc. 270 cases were made, and I liked it! Impenetrable and saturated in colour, this had vibrant, juicy black berry and plum fruit. Amazingly lively, fresh and primary, the depth and line of fruit was a sensation. Extraction levels were maximized and this huge, concentrated, backward monster needs time to show all of what it has got. A long, dry autumn followed a cool wet summer for 2004 and the Esk
The Products...
Esk Valley The Terraces 06
Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 2006 (19.5-020) is 14.5% alc., with 269 cases made. Purple hued ...
$146.80 750 MLS
More...

1   
Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Summer has arrived.Time for socialising outdoors with good wine and food.

RICHARD

In Upper Mongolia it is customary for the first person that spots a man wearing an eyepatch to buy a round of drinks for everyone.
Breaking News
08-Feb-2012 - Ha ha gotta love it... #lostintranslation Click Here
08-Feb-2012 - Interesting discovery with particular pertinence to NZ Syrah... Click Here
08-Feb-2012 - RT @WineSpectator: Wine's Three Biggest Lies (Wine Spectator): Why good wine lovers tell bad lies Click Here
04-Feb-2012 - RT @vickizorro: Love your work @regionalwines Click Here
View More...
Sign-up   below to be the first in the know on everything from tastings to specials...
Auburn Riesling 2011 Preview
Monday 13th February, 6.00pm start, Cost - No Charge, Limit 80 places. Instore, Regional Wines and Spirits, 15 Ellice St, Mt Victoria. Bookings with

Weird, Wacky and Wonderful – Rieslings Wild Side with Andrew Hedley
Tuesday 21st February, 6.00pm start, Cost $40.00 pp Limit 30 places. Upstairs Tasting Room, Regional Wines and Spirits, 15 Ellice St, Mt Victoria. B

Chenin Blanc Masterclass with James Millton and Gordon Russell
Tuesday 28th February, 6.00pm start, Cost $30.00 pp Limit 30 places. Upstairs Tasting Room, Regional Wines and Spirits, 15 Ellice St, Mt Victoria. Boo

TE MATA ESTATE SHOWCASE 2012
Wednesday 7th March, 6.00 pm start, Cost $35.00 pp, Limit 150 places Venue: St James Theatre, 77- 87 Courtenay Place Bookings: With Regional Wines,

Contact & Enquiries
Main Line: - 04 3856952

Orders Line: 04 3849735

Fax Line: 04 3828488

Hours: Mon – Sat 9am –10pm
Sunday & Public Holidays
11am - 7.30pm
Need Help?
Try our FAQ Section

If you can't find what you are after, give us a call or pop into the store!
People! Who we are
We're a talented mix of people who love what we do, and we've been doing it for over 20 years! Click here to find out more
Copyright © 2010 Regional Wines Limited
Website by: Slice Of HAM   Design by: Plastic Studio