The Ambeli, 18 Majoribanks Street, Mt Victoria,
Tel: (04) 385-7577
In some ways the egalitarianism of Kiwis has seen the
fine-dining scene evolve to a stage which is friendlier and more inclusive for
all parties concerned. The perception
that all people are equals in important respects has encouraged diners and
restaurateurs to seek interaction, and the dialogue that develops during the
course of a meal experience has become an important component. This of course adds considerably more dimension
to the meal and encourages information exchange and feedback for all concerned
with improvement a likely result. The
traditionalists would scoff at this, preferring restaurant service staff (and
managers and proprietors) keeping a distance and ‘professional’ aloofness which
can border on snobbery. This may have
been appropriate in the days of defined class lines, and in some ways can still
offer degrees of protection and a sense of ‘place’.
However the growing international acceptance of patron and staff
interaction is a fact. Shae Moleta at The Ambeli has interpreted this trend
perfectly and his style of operation is cutting-edge. He and his staff are experts at showcasing
The Ambeli philosophy, style, individuality and passion, without being overbearing. It’s almost an act, but it’s extremely
entertaining and engaging, and as a diner, one is welcomed and drawn into The
Ambeli world and it is really wonderful.
The Ambeli has truly come of age. From the beginning, it was easy to see the
drive of Shae, his charming wife Elisavet and chef Sam Pope in wanting to
become a top dining destination. It’s
been a road of hard work and dedication, and along the way, The Ambeli team
have built in more, refined, and added the finishing touches to what started as
much barer bones. Entering the front
door to main dining room, a new black velveteen curtain softens the dividing
wall. The upgraded staff uniforms (smart
waistcoasts, Shae!) to funky and interesting decanters all add up to a
fully-fitted establishment.
However it is the subtle changes to the menu by chef Sam Pope
that really show the maturity of The Ambeli.
His pan-Mediterannean influenced cooking has always been there, but each
of his signature dishes has been made more complete. The richness and texture of the pan-fried
haloumi perfectly off-set by the freshness and piquance of the mint pesto. The crumbed risotto based arancini preserving
the flavoursome meaty juices of the slow-cooked lamb neck. And the new encasing buckwheat galette
pancake intensifying the richness of the famous slow-cooked duck. The superb range of variously infused
Valrhona-based, decadent truffles. All
signs of lifting each dish and complete menu to a new level of
satisfaction. Presentation and quality is an art form, one that demands tasting and eating, rather than a showpiece
to be admired from afar.
The beverage list has become extremely exciting and offers
something for all die-hard enthusiasts, but also retains good touches of the
familiar for those less wine eclectic. The
biodynamic wines of Seresin in Marlborough
have become family for The Ambeli staff.
Divided into ‘New World’ and ‘Old World’
whites and reds, the variety and span is quite stunning. Shae reports that many wine-oriented diners,
who were attending the recent Pinot Noir 2010 conference, were impressed. Our group enjoyed the softer and broader than
expected Lustau ‘Papirusa’ Manzanilla, a rich and dryish Spagnol ‘Col di Sass’
Prosecco Extra Dry and harmonious, but brooding CUNE ‘Imperial’ Rioja Gran
Reserva 1998. We were tempted by the
three Framingham 2008 Auslese wines again, but not this time… Well-chosen craft beers are a feature. The Ambeli has a special match with Mike’s
Whisky Porter. If it’s all too much to
take in, Shae and his knowledgeable staff delight in advice to select from the
list.
The Ambeli can now be reckoned as one of Wellington’s top dining establishments. It certainly is at the head of the modern
fine-dining wave. With entrees ranging
from $16.00 - $22.00, mains from $29.00 - $34.00, and something to finish at
$9.50 - $14.00, expect to spend around $100.00 per person including good
wines. That’s great value. You can dine there on the spur of the moment
with spontaneous visitors from out of town, or even take your partner there to
propose marriage.
- Raymond Chan