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Wine Review

Forrest ‘Collection’ Release 2008 With Rex Morgan Canapes

By Raymond Chan
John Forrest’s ‘Collection’ wines are of great interest. Representing the best performing varieties from regions where he draws grapes, John has bottled under the ‘Collection; label his very best efforts. The wines are the very best he can do, and as such they figure among the top level. The third release of John Forrest’s ‘Collection’ range was handled a little differently this year to those of the first two years. Due to the very small quantities of some of the wines, it was decided to show wines from the previous two releases along with most of the wines from the new release. And as with last year’s function which was a real hit, the wines were served alongside canapés designed by celebrity chef Rex Morgan. The flavour interaction then were amazing, and it was anticipated to be the same this year.

Here are my notes on the wines and how they matched the canapés:

‘The White’ and Pork rillette with lemon verbena mayonnaise


This label of all the ‘Collection’ wines is the most controversial in that the varietal proportions are not revealed. However, the concept of a textural wine that is food friendly, and one that is not reliant on any variety has more supporters among winemakers than one realises. For the record, ‘The White’ includes Viognier from the Gimblett Gravels, Pinot Gris from Otago, and Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer and Chenin Blanc from Marlborough. The John Forrest ‘Collection’ ‘The White’ 2007 (17.5+/20) was fresh and crisp with excellent aromatics, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling showing through. Zippy with a degree of minerality, this will no doubt put on weight and texture. The John Forrest ‘Collection’ ‘The White’ 2006 (18.0+/20) was softer, fuller and broader showing excellent body, richness and texture. Here, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay qualities were tasted.

In food matching terms, the pork was highlighted and the freshness and acidity was noticeable with the 2007 vintage wine. The different elements, while not matched, all added to a pleasurable combination. With the 2006 wine, the herb notes of the verbena were enhanced and the acidity softened as the textures of the wine and rillette became harmonised with the fat. This was a very good match.

Riesling and Kaffir lime scented prawn cake with tropical salsa


It was interesting to taste these two wines just a little while after the ‘Man for all Rieslings’ Masterclass conducted at the start of August, where the same two wines featured. Then the 2005 wine was intense with subtle complexities, whereas the 2006 was lighter, less intense and less developed. On this showing, the John Forrest ‘Collection’ Riesling 2006 (19.0+/20) was gloriously pure and lively with a wonderful brightness of lime juices and minerals. The John Forrest ‘Collection’ Riesling 2005 (18.0+/20) was far more subtle here, full in weight, rounded and softened with mellow toastiness to the lime-like fruit.

With the prawn cake, the 2006 did not have the weight and power to stand alongside and the palate became more waxy and oily in texture, the food somewhat dominant. However, the 2005 wine had sufficient weight and power to integrate with the textures and the resultant balance was excellent. The lime and salsa were less significant nuances, but contributed to the whole.

Chardonnay and Sweet corn custard with poached free range chicken


This wine has now been seen over three tastings. The John Forrest ‘Collection’ Chardonnay 2004 (18.5/20) displayed coolish aromas with some herbs and complexing vegetal elements, but the palate was gloriously rich and creamy. A wine of power from the fruit depth and alcohol, and creaminess from the barrel fermentation.

The sweet corn custard was a perfect match texturally and with their corn-mealy similarities. Bacon pieces and the nutty oak mirrored each other. And the chicken absorbed the power and heat of the wine, resulting in even better harmony. This was an excellent match.

Syrah and Spiced tomato jelly with cervena tartare


The previous Syrah wines under this label have been in the very ripe spectrum and this John Forrest ‘Collection’ Syrah 2006 (18.5/20) is the most aromatic to date. Tight and elegant, the lifted florals with spices and pepper are classical. A wine of excellent concentration, there was a steely aspect which became pronounced with the very fine-grained tannins.

While the cervena and wine worked together, the acidity of the tomato jelly was too pronounced and unbalanced the match. This did not work as well as expected on paper!

Cabernet Sauvignon and Kawakawa and pink peppercorn seasoned lamb with mint and bell pepper chutney


Arguably the star varietal under the ‘Collection’ series, and a joy to see that Cabernet Sauvignon can perform admirably. The John Forrest ‘Collection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (18.5-/20) with 2% Malbec and 1% Merlot, was aromatic, elegant and perfumed with currant notes on a tight and refined palate that impressed with its sweetness and purity. A classy number with freshness and youth. The John Forrest ‘Collection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (19.5-/20) with 2% Malbec, was soft, ripe and restrained on nose, but dense, full and massive on palate. This was a complete wine with great fruit depth and superb structure underneath.

With the lamb, the youthfulness of the 2006 wine stood out, and fresh, zesty interactions occurred and the wine showing a sharpness, somewhat more strongly so than the food components. However the food flavours and textures merged with the 2005 wine, becoming integrated, though leaving a toastiness behind. This pairing was a good one.

Noble Riesling and Otago apricot pannacotta with pasionfruit and orange pearls


Now showing the benefits of bottle development, the John Forrest ‘Collection’ Noble Riesling 2005 (19.0/20) was still extremely rich with complex toast and honey notes to the floral and mineral Riesling varietal fruit. The tightness of the wine with its freshness should see it develop another 3-5 years effortlessly.

The rule of thumb that the wine should be richer than the dessert was followed here and the wine sat with the food well. Though a little too powerful for the pannacotta, there were subtle nuances from the botrytis and dessert that highlighted each other, the passionfruit and orange in particular.
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