Feeling a little snowed under with work a
little while ago I (briefly) contemplated skipping a tasting of the new vintage
sweet wines from Framingham.
I had accepted the kind invitation though so of course I turned up at Ancesteral
on Courtney Place
at the appointed time, feeling slightly frazzled. I left a couple of hours
later gob-smacked at the quality of the wines and delighted at having been
given the opportunity to try these gems.
While 2011 was a difficult year in a number
of regions, in Marlborough the planets aligned
for Framingham
to produce a quite stunning range of sweet wines with varying degrees of botrytis
influence. Picking was staged over several weeks, starting on the 20th
of March and continuing until the 24th of May, allowing wines to be
made at varying degrees of ripeness.
Winemaker Dr Andrew Hedley and the
assistant winemaker Andrew Brown evidently lost a few years of their lives with
the effort involved in turning rotting grapes into liquid gold. From a wine
lovers point of view it was undoubtedly worth it, their loss is our gain!
This is the finest collection of sweet
wines released in New
Zealand. They all exhibit great purity,
depth and concentration and are devoid of VA or other off characters often found
in sweet wines.
The first three wines were a Pinot Gris and
two Gewurztraminers, named in the Alsatian classification style, followed by
six Rieslings classified in the German Prädikat style. My notes:
F-Series
Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive 2011 – Floral waxy
notes on bouquet with honey and quince flavours on a long, unctuous palate.
Lovely balance. 160gm/l rs, 8.5% alc.18.5/20
F-Series
Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive 2011- Lovely
vibrant gold, intense varietal bouquet, spice, honey tropical fruit. Luscious
palate that lasts beautifully. 150gm/l rs, 8.5% alc. 18/20
F-Sereies
Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles 2011 – Hand
harvested 24th May at 44 brix! 100% Botrytis. Deep gold, some
clarifying to come (this is not a finished wine however only the clarity will
change from this point) Outrageous bouquet! Powerful, pungent with masses of
different dried fruit, mango, ginger, peach, it’s all there. The palate is
quite extraordinary, unbelievably rich concentrated and decadent, complex and
long while deftly avoiding cloying. Fantastic wine. 335 gm/l rs, 7.5% alc. 19.5/20
F-Series
Riesling Kabinett 2011 – Hand harvested on 20th
March 20.4 brix. No botrytis. Light in colour, quite shy on the nose initially,
obviously young. Citrus and mineral
notes combine with a touch of florals and green apple. Bouquet flows on to the
palate with deft balance, classy wine that should age well. 58gm/l rs, 8% alc
18/20
Framingham Select Riesling 2011 – Spatlese equivalent, hand harvested on 1st April 22.1
brix, no botrytis. Light in colour, again quite shy. Mineral and floral notes.
A bit more weight on the palate. Red currents and raspberry on palate, richer
in texture with hints of honey on the long finish. 65gm/l rs 8.5% alc 18.5/20
F-Series
Auslese Riesling 2011 – hand harvested on 12th
April and 1st May, 28.4 brix bunches selected from 15 – 30 %
botrytis affected berries. Light gold. Botrytis evident, honey, Seville oranges, apricot
on nose. Very pure palate with citrus/apricot characters, lovely cut, balance
and length. Gorgeous wine. 140gm/l rs 8.5% alc 18.5/20
Framingham Noble Riesling 2011 – Equivalent of Auslese Gold cap. Hand harvested between 12th
April and 23rd May. 31.8 brix net botrytis effected fruit around 50
– 60%. Light gold. Complex bouquet showing botrytis, cumquats, marmalade and
mineral notes. Peachy stonefruit flavours on a young palate with great texture
and fine acid balance. Delicious. 180gm/l 8.5% alc 19/20
F-Series
Riesling Beerenauslese 2011 – hand harvested on 19th
May. 34.8 brix 100% botrytis. Gold. An incredible bouquet, very intense and
complex. The palate has a freshness to the complex layers of flavours, very
sweet but not at all cloying, superb balance and length. 205gm/l rs 9.% alc.
19.5/20
F-Series
Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2011 - Hand
harvested on 19th and 24th May 40.7 brix 100% botrytis.
Gold, Incredibly intense and powerful bouquet. Rich tropical fruit, spice
marmalade and plenty of bot. An extraordinary palate, very complex, textural,
unctuous and a finish that last till morning! Quite superb. 295gm/l rs 7.5% alc
. 19.5+/20
Bravo to Andrew Hedley and the team at Framingham, these are wonderful
wines with some made in incredibly small quantities. The quality and attention
to detail in all of them is outstanding, I urge you to try them.