With around 315 hectares of Gewurztraminer planted in New Zealand, it is a distant fifth
place in white variety ranking. This
reflects its inconsistent cropping and poor reliability in providing grape
growers a return. The variety is planted
mainly in Gisborne and Marlborough, with Hawke’s Bay having significant
plantings. Interestingly Nelson, with
27.5 hectares, Gisborne is the fourth most planted region, where it is a
significant variety, comprising 8.5% of the vines there. Dedicated growers and winemakers have lifted
the quality of Gewurztraminer wines recently and examples from Nelson are
providing very good value. We offer
three wines from the producers’ base level ranges, all from the excellent 2008 white
wine vintage, that show you can have exemplary Gewurztraminer varietal
character without paying an arm and a leg:
Blackenbrook Vineyard Nelson
Gewurztraminer 2008
Daniel and Ursula Schwarzenbach run a very tight and tidy operation with
20 hectares of vines half-way between Nelson and the Abel Tasman
National Park. Daniel’s winemaking background with aromatic
producers Hirsch in Austria,
Engelhof in Germany,
Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace and Fromm in Switzerland
(where he met the elegant and ever-smiling Ursula) has no doubt given the
Blackenbrook wines an edge. Made from
fruit from their clay soil Moutere ‘Home Block’, this was cool fermented to
14.2% alc and 9 g/l residual sugar and bottled without any fining. A firm and tightly bound wine, this has a
steely edge to the crisp and minerally expression of florals and clear spice
notes. The wine has a fresh delicacy and
possesses the tell-tale hint of bitterness of stonefruit kernels on the finish
which only Gewurztraminer shows. A
silver medal winner at the 2008 ANZWA and 4 ½ Star ratings by Michael Cooper
and Sam Kim. The Blackenbrook Reserve Gewurztraminer 2008
is more decadent at 20 g/l residual sugar.
Seifried Estate Nelson
Gewurztraminer 2008
Established by Hermann and Agnes Seifried in 1973, Weingut Seifried was
the pioneer in the Nelson region.
Nowadays, Seifried Estate is one of this country’s significant producers
with nearly 200 hectares of vineyards.
Son Chris and daughter Heidi are responsible for the winemaking and
daughter Anna has the sales and marketing role.
The Seifried range is always absolutely dependable and with every
vintage, as the vines become more mature and vinification becomes more
sophisticated, the wines are noticeably more flavoursome with greater interest
and nuances captured. The 2008
Gewurztraminer fruit is sourced from the Redwood Valley
and Brightwater sites picked and vinified separately and blended to 13.5% alc
and 10 g/l residual sugar. This is a
bold number with plenty of tropical fruit aromas and flavours reminiscent of a
summer’s day. Up-front and friendly in
expression, this has a sweetness from the ripeness of the fruit. Last year, it was awarded 5 Stars in Winestate
Magazine and won a silver medal at the International Wine Challenge. The marginally drier ‘Winemakers Collection’
Gewurztraminer comes solely from the young Brightwater vineyard.
Waimea Estates Nelson
Gewurztraminer 2008
Moving from apple orchards, the Bolitho family planted wines in 1993 and
harvested their first crop in 1997. Now
with 130 hectares of vines, Waimea Estates is the second largest producer in
the Nelson region, and one with a growing reputation. The Nelson region seems to succeed with a
wide range of varieties (though Cabernet Sauvignon is problematic), and Waimea
has seen top awards across the board.
Gewurztraminer is a particular star and the 2008 picked up Elite Gold at
the ANZWA and N.Z. International Wine Show last year, as well as a silver at
the Bragato Wine Awards. Winemaker Mike
Brown took great care with skin contact with this 14.5% alc wine which carries
only 6.3% residual sugar. Pale in
colour, this has a beautifully soft and perfumed bouquet of musk and rose
petals. The palate has a sumptuous
lusciousness and wonderfully fine textured palate that oozes luxury. The richness is purely fruit-driven and the
finesse is its feature. The ‘Bolitho
Signature Vineyard’ wines show distinctly more funky and ‘on the edge’ characters
and can be more exciting!