By Raymond Chan
The Rioja region is evolving, yet remarkably
retaining its sense of tradition, as can be seen in diversity of wines
available as well as by the appearance of new styles and expressions. There is no doubt the northerly Spanish
vignobles of Rioja and Ribera del Duero showcase the Tempranillo variety better
than any other in the world, and it is a credit to the producers, especially in
Rioja, in embracing and applauding this evolution. Importer Matt Deller took us through a range
of upper-end Riojas (no crianzas) which demonstrated the range of Rioja that
makes the region exciting and great.
There were traditiona Reservas and Gran Reservas, modernist
interpretations of these, single vineyard wines which acknowledge terroir as in
Burgundy and Piedmont,
as well as ‘super grand cru’ wines. The
tasting was based on the wines from two families, Real de Asua – of CUNE and
Contino fame, making traditional style wines, and the Eguren family – of Sierra
Cantabria, Vinedos de Paganos and Senorio de San Vicente, the modern expression
of Rioja. It was a fascinating tasting
of high quality wines. Here are my
notes:
Flight
One: The Reservas
The regulations for Reserva wines require
three years of aging, of which one year must be in oak, before release onto the
market. The Reserva wines in this flight
were aged 24 months in oak and two years in bottle before commercialisation. The first wine was the CUNE Rioja Reserva 2005 (17.5/20), 13.6% alc, 80% Tempranillo and
20% Mazuelo with Garnacha, aged 2 years in French and US oak. Deep ruby red in colour, this had an elegant
nose with ripe red berries, spicy oak and some funky game aromas, quite open in
style. A well-proportioned wine in
palate, this had soft red fruit flavours, distinctive oak vanillins and
moderate acidity. A brettanomyces
element became evident with breathing.
Supple and approachable, for drinking now-5 years. Next was the CUNE ‘Imperial’ Rioja Reserva 2004 (18.5/20), at 13.9% alc, 85%
Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo, from the Rioja Alta, the wine aged
two years in French and US
oak. Deep ruby red in colour with garnet
hues, this had a very concentrated and tightly bound nose, quite lively, firm
and fresh, with pronounced oak vanilla aromatics. On palate very fine-textured and very
concentrated, quite densely packed and firm.
This has excellent depth. Red
fruits still show, alongside the sweet oak.
A wine to last a decade plus easily.
Third in the flight was the Contino
Rioja Reserva 2005 (18.0-/20), 14.0% alc, 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano
with 5% Mazuelo and Garnacha, from Laserna in the Rioja Alavesa, aged 2 years
in French and US oak. Deep, ruby red
with purple hues to the colour, this had bright, raspberryish fruit with floral
notes in a fresh, modernist style, quite finely expressed and with some
depth. On palate quite elegant and soft,
with attractive red berry fruit and plum flavours, moderately extracted and
supple in texture. Restrained oak giving
some lift. This will drink well over the
next 7-5-7 years.
Flight
Two: The Gran Reservas
Gran Reservas are not made every year, being
expressions of the best vintages, given two years aging in oak and three in
bottle before being released. First in
this flight was the Sierra Cantabria
Rioja Gran Reserva 2004 (17.5+/20), at 14.0% alc, 97% Tempranillo and 3%
Graciano, aged 24 months in 25% new US oak barriques. Brilliant deep ruby red in colour, this had a
deep bouquet of ripe, dark plums with well-balanced oak spice. Fine-grained and elegant on palate, this had
ripe and luscious red fruit flavours well-framed within a firm and dry
framework. Not quite the sweetness here,
but there was a suspicion of TCA dumbing the fruit expression in this bottle. Next was the CUNE ‘Imperial’ Gran Reserva 1999 (19.0-/20), at 13.0% alc, 85%
Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo, from 20 y.o. vines in the Rioja Alta,
aged in US and French oak. Bright ruby
red with garnet edge to the colour, this had an elegant, but very penetrating
nose of red berry fruits and intense oak vanillins. Quite beautifully perfumed, the bouquet was
very intense. On palate, this was fine
and elegantly constructed with refined, subtle red fruits, surrounded by
excellent oak sweetness. The line and
length of the wine was carried by fresh, and obvious acidity. Very long finishing, this will keep 10-15
years. Then served as an extra to this
flight, a Contino Rioja Graciano 2006
(19.0+/20), at 14.0% alc, 100% Graciano from Rioja Alavesa, aged 14 months in French
and Hungarian oak An icon wine for
Contino and regarded as the best bottling of this rare variety. Very dark, deep, ruby red with purple
hues. This had a very rich, dense nose
packed with ripe black fruits, herbs, spices and berry fruits, very bright and
sweetly expressed, and showing complexity and real interest. Elegant on palate, yet rich and lush, the red
berry fruits unfolding with spices and subtle oak nuances. This had good weight, but this was kept keen
and fresh by way of the fresh acidity.
This icon wine for Contino had great interest and a faceted array of
flavours. Keep 8-10+ years easily.
Flight
Three: The ‘Single Vineyard’ Riojas
This flight and the next were of wines from
the Eguren family, pushing the boundaries of modern Rioja. These three wines were ‘single vineyard’
style expressions, recognising site personalities or terroir. First was the Senorio de San Vicente ‘San Vicente’ Rioja 2006 (19.0-/20), at
14.5% alc, 100% Tempranillo from the 18 ha San Vicente vineyard, aged 20 months
in 90% French and 10% US oak barriques, all new. Very dark, black hued red, almost
impenetrable. This had a powerful dense
nose of ripe, black fruits, along with spices and savoury elements, tightly
bound and constructed. A powerful wine,
this was solidly deep and dense on palate, with concentration and
structure. The flavours of dark fruits
and spices were brooding, and oak was supportive. A wine that will keep 15-20 years. Described as the garagiste St Emilion or
Pomerol in style. Next was the Vinedos de Paganos ‘El Puntido’ Rioja 2006
(19.0+/20), at 14.5% alc, 100% Tempranillo from the 25 ha El Puntido vineyard
in Rioja Alavesa, vines 35 y.o., the wine aged 16 months in all new French oak
barriques. Brilliant purple-hued
black-red, impenetrable. This possessed
a very intense, perfumed nose of dark fruits, herbs, spices and charry
oak. The palate was very elegant,
fine-grained and surprisingly supple, the lush, sweet fruit the feature. Herbs, charry elements, spiced red fruits all
came together on a seamless palate, the extraction very refined. This will drink well for 10-12 y