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Wine Blog

Hot Wines At The 2010 Hot Red Hawke's Bay Wine Expo

This annual fixture is a must for any wine lover to attend. It is an opportunity of appraising some of this country’s best red wines. Hawke’s Bay has the Bordeaux varietals as its base, and the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wines from here are only challenged by those of Waiheke Island in quality. However, the depth and breadth, Hawke’s Bay is far, far superior. Syrah is the new and exciting variety, and again Hawke’s Bay is excelling. The world has begun to notice these emerging wines. Pinot Noir may seem the problem child, but some very exciting releases have appeared from cooler sites. The lighter, more fragrant styles from The Bay have more in common with Burgundy than the darker ‘fruit-bomb’ wines that are prevalent! And a raft of experimental varieties, and some now not so experimental, just add a marvellous variety and diversity to what flows from this great wine growing region. This year’s expo previewed the new 2009 releases, the current 2008s and 2007s, and there were bottles of older wines to show both vintage characteristics and bottle development. The conclusions are that progress is inexorable, and we have many superb wines to look forward to. Here are some highlights seen by our staff:

“Everyone has a Winner!”

That’s my take on this year’s ‘Hot Red’. All of the exhibitors had wines of real interest and quality. It would be invidious to select one or a small number as the best; doing an injustice would be poor form on my part. So I have listed a highlight from each producer – in alphabetical order. In doing so, there may be more than one selected, this NOT being an indicator that this was an overall ‘better’ label. And I should note that Regional Wines does not stock all I have listed:

Abbey Cellars ‘Temptation’ Malbec 2009
, true exotic varietal character tamed to classiness. Alpha Domus ‘Barnstormer’ Syrah 2008, supple like a Pinot Noir with exciting char notes. Askerne Syrah 2008 with complexity and approachability. Wow, what beautiful fruit and oak richness in the Babich ‘The Patriarch’ 2007. Classical perfumes of soft red berries in the elegant Black Barn Tempranillo 2009. Complex, powerful spices and game in the Bridge Pa ‘Louis’ Syrah 2006.

The Church Road ‘Cuve’ Merlot 2007 with its lush, plush, palate was upstaged by the Church Road ‘Cuve’ Marzemino 2007 with its musky, spicy deep red fruit. The best value Bordeaux-styled wine could be the CJ Pask Gimblett Road Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec 2007. The Clearview ‘Basket Press’ 2007 is another ‘out-there’ wine from Tim Turvey. Corbans Cottage Block Syrah 2008 captures the perfumes of the variety so well. We don’t know what’s in the Crossroads ‘Talisman’ 2008, but it doesn’t matter, it’s still brilliant. For a new label, the Cypress ‘Terraces’ Syrah 2007 is up with the best. As is the vibrant Elephant Hill Syrah 2009, showing how to judge balance and proportion.

Should the Esk Valley Merlot/Cabernet/Malbec 2008 be upgraded to ‘Reserve’ status? There is no question about the deservedness of the structured Esk Valley ‘Winemakers Reserve’ Syrah 2007! Watch out Burgundy, Lime Rock ‘White Knuckle Hill’ Pinot Noir 2007 has your measure! Size isn’t everything when it comes to drinking pleasure as with the Matariki Syrah 2006. The Mission Reserve Syrah 2009 is classic, structured Gimblett Gravels expression and a beauty. Approachability and friendliness are attributes never to be underestimated, try the Moana Park VS Syrah 2009 to see why. And Cabernet Sauvignon is on the comeback, Ngatarawa ‘Glazebrook’ Merlot/Cabernet 2007 is so well influenced by it.

The Salvare Syrah 2008 was an example of how to get it right, a textbook wine. And Sileni Estates ‘Triangle’ Merlot 2008 shows why this variety is so rewarding in The Bay, with its sweet fruit richness and completeness. For an example of how interestingly Hawke’s Bay reds can develop, one only needs to taste the Te Awa ‘Boundary’ 2004. Showing the facets of Syrah, the Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2008 was bright, but serious, while the Trinity Hill ‘Homage’ Syrah 2007 was a wine of magnificence. Vidal Reserve Merlot/Cabernet 2007 was a seriously built wine that spoke of more potential. And Villa Maria Reserve Syrah 2007 a velvety wine of exoticism while the Villa Maria Reserve Merlot 2007 was one of power allied with exhibitionism.

- Raymond Chan

"Hawke's Bay Rolls into Town"

As usual, the standard was high across the board, especially wines from the stellar 2007 vintage, where the warmer weather brought the pepper notes in the Syrahs down to a more desirable pianissimo, rather than the forte that usually throws the wine out of balance.

There was one wine in particular that stood out for me, the 2006 Villa Maria Reserve Merlot. In a vertical from 08-05, the wines just seemed to get better and better as we went backwards. The 2006 is a smooth criminal, really entering its prime, combining John Gotti’s power with Thomas Crown’s elegance and poise. The Merlot is aided and abetted by its offsiders, Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, teasing out the palate length and contributing complex spice and raspberry n

The Products...
VILLA MARIA SYRAH RES 07
Villa Maria Syrah Res 07
Made from fruit from sites in the Gimblett Gravels, the grapes were tot...
$40.70 750 MLS
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ESK VALLEY SYRAH WINEMAKERS 07
Esk Valley Syrah Winemakers 07
Fullish, dark ruby red in colour, this has an intense, punchy nose of red and...
$56.95 sale! 750 MLS
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CLEARVIEW CAB/MERLOT BASKET PRESS 07
Clearview Cab/Merlot Basket Press 07
The Clearview Estate ‘Basket Press’ 2007 is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlo...
$152.95 750 MLS
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BRIDGE PA VINEYARD SYRAH LOUIS 06
Bridge Pa Vineyard Syrah Louis 06
Louis Syrah 2006 displays the classic Bridge Pa Vineyard aromas of perfumed violet and b...
$53.20 750 MLS
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Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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