While we in New Zealand
have made great strides with our Chardonnay wines, the Australians remain a
step or two ahead of us at the very top level.
It’s a matter of ripeness.
Generally speaking, our wines have the slightest streak of greenness
that is a giveaway of our cool climate.
In almost all other respects, we are level pegging it, though our
neighbours across the Tasman have older vines and the ensuing couple of decades
more experience than us, and these factors must count for an extra edge. We offer two icon Australian Chardonnays –
world class – and as such, are must-try wines for any serious student of fine
wine:
Petaluma Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay 2007
The brainchild of the legendary Brian Croser, Petaluma retains its reputation as a top
Australian producer, despite a change of ownership to the Lion Nathan brewing liquor
group. This outstanding Chardonnay, made
by winemaker Andrew Hardy, is the result of a warm, dry and early vintage from
fruit sourced from seven different sites, the vines now over a quarter of a
century old. Fully barrel fermented and
matured in 60% new French oak, 90% of the wine underwent MLF with a resultant 14.0%
alc. The wine is sheer class in the
modern style. Elegant and taut with
show-off acidity, the aromas and flavours are sleek, but very intense. Grapefruit, citrus, mealiness and wonderful
complexing sulphide nuttiness feature, as is the vogue nowadays. The wine unfolds remarkably in the glass and
should develop exceedingly well over the next 5-6 years. 96 points by James Halliday.
Leeuwin Estate ‘Art Series’ Margaret River Chardonnay 2006
One of the great Chardonnays of the world and arguably
the best white wine of Australia. The 2006 Leeuwin ‘Art Series’ Chardonnay is
being mooted as the best ever, with a host of top reviews, several critics
including Ray Jordan, Campbell Mattinson, Nick Stock, Tyson Stelzer and James
Halliday all rating it at 97 points.
Made from the ‘Gin Gin’ clone from Block 20, the ‘Front Gate’ Chardonnay
vines nearing 30 years of age, this was fully barrel fermented to 14.5% alc.,
aged 12 months in first-grade oak and given a partial malo conversion.. Leeuwin has a style of its own. Its massive richness, density and
concentration is never overbearing, but makes the wine complete in every
aspect. Huge mealy succulence, yet
perfectly dry and clean. The complexity
is instantly seen on first nosing and tasting. It is completely seductive and will be so for
6-8 years. The 2006 features the artwork
of Richard Larter entitled “Spring Disposition”. Many wine lovers would choose this wine and
art package over that of Chateau Mouton-Rothchild…