The name of Jean-Louis Chave is synonymous
with the greatest examples of Hermitage in the northern Rhone. This Hermitage wine is rare and expensive and
sought-after by avid collectors world-wide.
Chave wine is the epitome by which all other Hermitage wines can be
judged by. With only 9.3 hectares of
Syrah spread across seven sites on Hermitage, the blend is a complete
expression. However, those who cannot
afford the prices or miss out on the meagre allocations can still have a taste
of Chave with the lesser known negociant offerings of St Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage and Cotes du
Rhone wines, bottled as the J-L Chave ‘Selection’ range. They capture the style of J-L Chave, but are
made from fruit not owned by the estate, but nevertheless of extremely high
quality. As such, they are more
affordable.
Jean-Louis
Chave Cotes du Rhone ‘Mon Coeur’ 2007
‘Mon Coeur’ is approximately equal
portions of Syrah and Grenache, the former sourced from cooler sites in
Vinsobres and the latter from Buisson in the Vaucluse. Though a southern Rhone
wine, the approach is that of the north, the more refined and aromatic
characters preferred. Fermented to 14.0%
alc, the wine was aged in 225 and 600 litre casks as well as vats for around 12
months. As we all know, 2007 was a
‘vintage of a lifetime’ in the southern Rhone,
and this is what makes this wine exceptionally good. Purple-black red in colour, the bouquet is
classic Chave Syrah. Intense black berry
fruits with dried herb and savoury complexities, no doubt from the Grenache. The palate is one of substance, with fulsome,
but reasonably rounded tannins. The
flavour is sumptuous dark fruits, pepper, spices and a touch of animal. This can be drunk now with pleasure,
accompanied by red game meat, but expect it to cellar 6-8 years too.
Jean-Louis
Chave Crozes-Hermitage ‘Silène’ 2007
Relatively new to the Crozes-Hermitage
appellation, it can be reasonably expected that Chave’s foray here will be as
successful as at home in Hermitage and St
Joseph. While
recently acquiring land here, the ‘Silène’ label has been created to extend the
Chave experience with Crozes-Hermitage wine.
Generally perceived to be the poor cousin to Hermitage, the wines seldom
rise to the heights of Hermitage. It’s a
matter of site, soil and favourable aspect.
Good fruit selection and experienced winemaking can ensure the best, as
this ‘Silène’ shows. Made in the Chave’s
cellars in Mauves. Impenetrable black
hued purple-red, this is archetype, sleek Syrah from this appellation with its
peppery nose complexed by a touch of sulphide reduction and elegant and slender
palate with tight and focussed black fruits and black pepper enhanced by fresh
herbal nuances and acidity. The
fine-grained palate has silky tannins backing the stylish fruit enabling
immediate accessibility, but as in true Chave fashion, this will keep 8-10
years easily.
Jean-Louis
Chave St Joseph ‘Offerus’ 2006
The Chave family are extremely well-connected
in the St Joseph
appellation and as a consequence, has little trouble accessing high quality
fruit for the negociant ‘Offerus’ wine.
The fruit sources generally come from nine suppliers who conduct the
initial vinification in their own cellars.
100% Syrah, the wine is then matured in 3-6 year old casks for 12-14
months, and there is an annual production of just over 4,000 cases. While a St Joseph label is often not taken
seriously, due to the wide variation in quality and style, wines from the granite
soil of Mauves and Tournon, which the ‘Offerus’ is based on, can be extremely
serious and sophisticated in the Hermitage style. First made in 1995, ‘Offerus’ offers real
value and is worth twice the price. This
2006 is from an excellent vintage and shows its quality in the soft and full
ripeness of the fruit and the rich, broad, open mouthfeel. While not as tightly aromatic and intense as
the 2007 wines from Chave, the softer red fruits are more juicy and spicy, and
quite delightful, offering an immediacy.
There is an ethereal aspect to the fruit. But make no mistake, this still has substance
and structure. The grip in the mouth
comes through increasingly and the result is a wine that is complete in all of
its componentry. This will be great
drinking over the next 7-10 years.