By Raymond Chan
The inaugural
release of the John Forrest
Collection wines at the start of July was a stunning success. Held at the
James Cook Chancellor Hotel, John Forrest
presented his six wines that represented the very best fruit from Hawke’s Bay, Marlborough and
Otago. Each wine was matched to a specially designed canapé by Rex Morgan
of Citron Restaurant. The wines and the food flavours worked wonders…..
Following are
Raymond’s impressions of the wines:
‘The White’
2005
13.9% alc. 5.8 g/L rs, 450 cases made. An innovative blend of Hawke’s Bay Viognier,
Marlborough Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Chenin and Gewurz and Otago Pinot
Gris. A pale coloured, subtle wine with delicate nuances that unfold and
delight in the glass. Fine textured, with vinous presence that brought
out flavour components in the food.
There is considerable fruit weight built into the palate An intriguing wine that will be easy
to underestimate, this delivers far more than initial impressions. Several winemakers are working on this wine
concept of a varietal blend, but John Forrest
has got there first! 18.0/20
Wairau Valley Riesling 2005
12.2% alc., 11.7
g/L rs. 550 cases made. Tightly constructed, lime and mineral aromas
and flavours result in a Riesling that bears more than a passing resemblance to
the best wines from the Clare
Valley. Although a
little austere at this stage, there is sufficient richness and depth to allow
accessibility. As with the highly rated
Forrest Estate Dry Rieslings, this will develop the glorious toasty
complexities that make the Riesling variety a noble one over the next 3-4
years. A classic with immense ageworthiness and potential. 18.5-/20
Waitaki Valley Pinot Noir 2004
14.2% alc., traditional
Burgundy techniques including 5 days cold soak, 50% destemmed, wild yeast
starter and fermentation up to 32°C, with 5 days on skins. 12 months in all French oak, one third new. 400 cases made. One of the first ‘commercial’ releases of
wine from this exciting vignoble in North Otago.
This reflects the youthfulness of the vines, and lighter vintage that all of
the country experienced, but is a creditable effort that deserves serious
attention. Light ruby-garnet coloured, this is an ethereal style that is
‘feminine’ in expression with its soft red fruits and gentle savoury,
forest-floor (very appropriate for John Forrest!)
elements. 17.5/20
Gimblett
Gravels Syrah 2004
14.0% alc. The fruit is from the renowned ‘Cornerstone’
vineyard owned by the Forrests with Bob Newton
and Dinah Kennedy. Made at Esk
Valley winery in the 3
tonne open top fermentors with supple tannins the aim. 18 months in 80% French and 20% American oak,
one-third new. 450 cases made. This has just taken off in expression after
settling down after bottling. A fully ripened Syrah, with rich, dark
fruit flavours and plenty of pepper and spice. The beautiful florals that
make Syrah so vibrant become more evident with air time. Palate shows warmth and real ripeness along
with fine tannin grip. This is in the
league of the leading examples of this exciting varietal. 18.5+/20
Gimblett
Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
14.3% alc. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec and Merlot,
the vines 15-17 y.o. from the ‘Cornerstone’ vineyard. Made by John at the Esk Valley
winery with Gordon Russell as
consultant. 18 months in 80% French, 20%
American oak, one-third new. 500 cases
made. Who says we can’t grow Cabernet
Sauvignon in New Zealand?
This is a wow wine for its perfect and pure varietal expression.
Benchmark blackcurrant and cassis flavours with refined extraction and great
depth, concentration and length. An outstanding example. 19.0/20
Brancott Valley Noble Riesling 2005
9.0%
alc., 220 g/L rs. 600 cases made. John Forrest
is one of this country’s top botrytis wine style makers, consistently winning
gold medals and trophies. This is his
best yet. Absolutely world-class sweet
wine, with hedonistic apricot, floral and citrussy fruit combined with decadent
botrytis. The soft and unctuous textures are in perfect balance with the
acidity to provide great poise. This is orgasmic