Following the
outstanding Sauvignon Blanc release in spring last year, we have all been
keenly awaiting Kevin Judd’s further releases under his Greywacke label. Programmed for availability in winter this
year were his aromatic wines, which have now been allocated to us. The quantities are minuscule, and considering
the interest in them, we advise you to consider them for purchase before they
disappear from the shelves!
Kevin is
legendary for his expertise with Sauvignon Blanc, his 25 years at the helm of
Cloudy Bay one of the cornerstones for this country’s success with the
variety. Less well-known is the high
quality of the little-seen aromatic wines that trickled from the Cloudy Bay
cellars. These gems were snapped-up by
ardent Cloudy Bay fans. This may be the case again, with Kevin’s
aromatic wines under his own Greywacke label.
All of the wines were vinified at Kevin’s friends Ivan Sutherland and
James Healy’s Dog Point winery, and are bold expressions that also carry the
depth of character and rich texture that the Sauvignon Blanc possesses. One can easily see a resemblance to some of
our favourite wines from Alsace…..
Greywacke Marlborough Riesling 2009
The fruit for
this wine was sourced from the Ashmore vineyard in Fairhall, next to the mouth
of the Brancott Valley, the vines low cropped at 4.5 tonnes/hectare and half of
the fruit wild yeast fermented in old French barriques, the remainder by
inoculated yeasts in stainless-steel, to 11.7% alc and 20 g/L residual
sugar. Pale straw yellow in colour, this
has an intense and piercing bouquet of lime juices and minerals with subtle and
complexing honied nuances. Off-dry to
taste, this is bold in its expression of citrus fruit flavours and is laced
with flint, minerals and succulent wild honey notes. The palate carries some weight and even a
little texture, which provides dryness to the long finish.
Greywacke Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009
This is a
Zind-Humbrecht look-alike with its weight, power and density. Brilliant pale straw yellow in colour, this
has aromas of ripe, yellow stonefruit with tropical fruit, oak spices and smoke
in support. There is warmth and heat,
adding to the volume of bouquet. Pretty
well dry on palate, the alcohol heat makes its mark on entry, but this is
enveloped by the masses of rich, ripe, savoury stonefruit. The palate is one of body and power and the
length of finish is astonishing. Many
people find the wines of Zind-Humbrecht over-the-top. If you do, then this may not be for you. Made from equal mix of Selection Ovaille and
Mission clones, from the Wrekin Terrace vineyard in the Brancott Valley, half
wild yeast fermented in old French barriques, the remainder in stainless-steel
to 14.5% alc, leaving 8.5 g/L rs. The
fermentation was finished off in oak, with lees stirring for added weight and
nuance.
Greywacke Marlborough Late Harvest Gewurztraminer 2009
Gewurztraminer is proving
to be a wonderful variety to make interesting and individual dessert wines as
is Viognier, providing a difference to the staple diet of Rieslings. The Greywacke Late Harvest Gewurztraminer is an
exotic offering that is an irresistible and decadent wine to sip as a
conversation piece, or match tropical fruit-based desserts, and possibly with
some Turkish Delight! Brilliant straw
yellow with flashes of gold, the bouquet is redolent of roses, citrus fruits,
honey and fully-ripened yellow stonefruits.
The wine is sweet and unctuous, yet in no way overbearing, due to its
clean and pristine acid cut. Beautifully
rich, yet with a degree of restraint, the seamlessness and rounded textures underscore
the exoticism of this superb number. An
equal mix of 456 and 457 clones sourced from a single site in the Brancott Valley, the fruit showing moderate
botrytis infection, fermented to 12.5% alc leaving 90 g/L residual sugar.