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Wine Review

Mahi Wines

By Raymond Chan
Brian Bicknell is one of the most able and knowledgeable winemakers in Marlborough. His experience and understanding of the fruit, the land and their interaction can be seen in the quality of the wines he has been responsible for. Brian established Mahi as his own label in 2001. With the differences in terroir in mind, the Mahi wines are Brian’s expression of these differences. In 2006 Brian purchased the Cellier Le Brun winery to serve as his base. He now sources fruit from eight vineyards and makes 22,000 – 35,000 cases of wine annually. Of this, 80% of the production is Sauvignon Blanc.

It was a pleasure to welcome Brian to Regional Wines again, this time under his own label. The wines he showed were his 2007 vintage wines, showing the individual vineyard characters he has recognized and captured over the years. He regards 2007 as an excellent one for him. Here are my notes on the wines tasted:

Introductory Bubbles


With the purchase of the Cellier Le Brun winery came a good quantity of sparkling wine. This has been marketed under the Terrace Road brand, and has been sold at a value price. Regional Wines has enjoyed selling it. Here the Terrace Road Methode Traditionelle NV (16.5+/20) served as an introduction to the tasting. Mainly from the 2004 vintage, this is 60% PN, 30% Ch and 10% PM, aged on lees for 4 years. Light straw with some pink hues, this had good depth of tight fruit on bouquet and ripe berryish flavours on palate balanced by savoury, slightly sour aldehyde notes. Not much autolysis here, but a firm and decent sparkling wine.

Sauvignon Blanc


Brian’s calling-card. The Mahi Sauvignons were distinctly different. First up was the Mahi Sauvignon blanc 2007 (17.0+/20) with fruit sourced from six sites. Tight and youthful, this had herbs, asparagus and nettle aromas and flavours along with yellow fruits showing, alongside some acidity and sourness. Good weight and length, and freshness with it. Next was the Mahi ‘Francis Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (17.5+/20) made from fruit from the northern Wairau, the Thompson Ford area, and given indigenous fermentation and 10 months maturation in French barriques. More colour, ripe, with obvious barrel ferment characters, this had tropical and herbal flavours with good acidity and greater depth. This was 13.6% alcohol. In comparison, the Mahi ‘Boundary Farm’ Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (19.0-/20) was 13.9% alc. Sourced from the Gilbert vineyard sited south-east of Blenheim, the fruit was also indigenously fermented and aged 10 months in French barriques. This was much tighter and more elegant with white peach and minerals, along with gooseberries and balnced oak. The very fine textures and length on palate were exceptional.

Chardonnay


The Mahi Marlborough Chardonnay 2007 (17.5+/20) included fruit from two sites accessed for the first time by Brian. Indigenous yeast fermentation with high solids and 11 months maturation in French barriques and only a small portion undergoing MLF, this had stonefruit and citrus aromas with a touch of malo and oak showing. Smooth textured and of decent concentration, this combined roundness and freshness. The Mahi ‘Twin Valleys’ Chardonnay 2007 (18.5-/20) comes from the Reed vineyard at Fareham Lane on the junction of the Wairau and Waihopi areas. All Clone 95, this
was indigenous yeast fermented and also aged 11 months in French barriques. With more complex, aged secondary notes, this combined citrus and mineral flavours with powerful mealy, white burgundy-like characters, plus some sulphide complexities. A wine with power and concentration.

Aromatic Whites


Both of these were single vineyard expressions. The Mahi ‘Ward Farm’ Pinot Gris 2007 (16.5+/20) was sourced from the Ward area, south of the Awatere and the fruit fermented with indigenous yeats, partly in French barriques. At 2.65 g/l rs, this is a dry expression. I found it tight and steely in the Pinot Grigio style, with minerals, stonefruit and steel, plus pronounced acidity. There was warmth and power underneath, but it carried an austerity. Other tasters saw great weight and positive Pinot Noir-like characters. The Mahi ‘Twin Valleys’ Gewurztraminer 2007 (17.5-/20) was made from fruit from the Reed vineyard at the Wairau and Waihopi junction, wild yeast fermented in older French oak. Very pale and youthful in appearance, this had aromatics and flavours in the citrus and blossom, floral and muscatty range, rather than ginger and spice. Softish, dry and full, yet fresh and young.

Pinot Noir


Much work is being done with Pinot Noir. The Mahi Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007 (17.5-/20) was sourced from three sites – ‘Rive’ in Rapaura, ‘Twin Valleys’ from the cooler Fareham Road area and the ‘Byrne’ vineyard. All destemmed, wild yeasts and 11 months in French barriques, this was elegantly sized with cherry and raspberry red fruits showing good aromatic character. Tight and dry, there was good fruit sweetness, nevertheless, on a medium-weighted palate. The final wine was a barrel sample of the Mahi ‘Rive’ Pinot Noir 2007 (tentative - 19.0/20). With powerful dark plum aromas, the ripeness can be seen in the richness and slight eucalypt hint. Dense and full, the textures and weight and plumpness of fruit were outstanding. These characters are typical of fruit from the ‘Rive’ site, and worthy of separate bottling.
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DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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