By Raymond Chan
The 2008
vintage for Pinot Noir in Martinborough is a great one, continuing an
increasing run of highly successful harvests after what seemed an interminable
string of weak years of cool growing conditions, frost strikes and uneconomical
low yields. 2003 was a small harvest, as
was 2005 and 2007, where quality was the salvation, but 2006 and now 2008 were
outstanding in terms of the health of the fruit combined with crop levels. It seems 2009 is another excellent year as
may be 2010. This scenario has allowed
the return of normal and dependable commercialisation of the wines of the
district. And this has pleased the wine
consumer, as the Pinot Noir wines of Martinborough are certainly distinctive in
their expression, being riper, more full, structured, and complex in flavour comparatively
with those of New Zealand’s other growing regions.
Regional
Wines conducted two tastings of a wide, but not comprehensive range of
Martinborough Pinot Noir from 2008, a great vintage, to celebrate the success
of the region. The two dozen wines
tasted were separated loosely into “Affordable” and “Super-Premium” events,
based on aspirational hierarchy or labelling, show result success and
pricing. The former category included
some wines over $60.00 in price, but the producer having other wines that were
subjectively deemed better, and the latter group having several wines less than
$40.00, but had performed well or were the best label offered by a winemaker. The most preferred wine from the “Affordables”
was included in the Super-Premiums” for reference and interest. Thus, the tastings were very interesting when
considering the concept of value!
As an
introduction to the tastings, the concept of varietal expression and balance
with terroir were explored, with discussion of the Martinborough ‘style’ as
noted above. The region’s geography,
soil types and sub-regional differences were touched. Key factors in the growing and making of
Pinot Noir wines were covered: Vineyard source and single vineyard expression,
clonal material, from Mariafeld, 10/5, Abel, Pommard (UCD4,5 & 6) and Dijon
(113, 114, 115, 667 & 777), rootstocks and vigour, plus age of the
vines. Then whole bunch and destemming,
cold soaking, indigenous or inoculated yeasts, peak ferment temperatures, time
on skins and resultant alcohol levels. Finally
oak maturation regime including time, type and % new, fining and filtering and
volumes of production.
For both
tastings, the 12 wines presented were served ‘blind’ in two flights of
six. The identity of the first flight
wines was revealed after discussion. Following
are my notes on the wines tasted:
Tasting One: “The Affordables” – Thursday 8
July
Flight One
The first
wine was The Edge Pinot Noir 2008
(16.5+/20), 13.8% alc, the second label for Escarpment Vineyard, made without
oak contact. Pale ruby red in colour
with purple hues, this had bright, fresh cherryish fruit on the nose, up-front,
simple and with good volume. The palate
possessed fresh, bright red fruit flavours, quite vibrant and healthy, with a
noticeable acid component and moderate tannin grip. Simple and attractive, for drinking over the
next 2-3 years. Next was the Ata Rangi ‘Crimson’ Pinot Noir 2008
(17.5-/20), 14.0% alc, young vine fruit, 100% destemmed, indigenous yeast
ferment, 9 months in 25% new French oak.
A wine dedicated to ‘Project Crimson’, the protection of native
red-flowering trees. Deep, purple hued
ruby red in colour, this had a soft, dense bouquet of ripe cherries and dark
plums. A well-textured wine with firmish
tannins, there was sweetness to the fruit, but in essence a little restrained
and dulled down. Drink over the next 3-5
years. Third was one of the three ‘first-equal’
preferred wines of the flight, the Kiritea
Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5/20), 14.0% alc, Te Muna Road fruit, wild yeast
fermented and aged 11 months in seasoned oak.
The second label for Te Hera Estate.
Deep ruby red in colour, this had a soft, full, rich and dense nose of
cherry liqueur, the palate showing density and richness of fruit with excellent
structure and extraction in balance, plus good acid freshness A well-proportioned wine with good
length. Good drinking for the next 5
years. The best value wine of the
tasting! Then the Escarpment Vineyard ‘Pahi’ Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5+/20), at 13.4%
alc, from the McCreanor vineyard, Princess Street, 10/5 clone, vines 25+ y.o.,
indigenous yeast fermented, 12 months in 30% new French oak. Dark, deep, purple hued ruby red in colour,
this had a solid, full and vibrant nose of fresh red berry fruits. Luscious, fleshy, bright and juicy on palate
with plenty of cherryish fruit, this had excellent tannin grip providing
balanced structure and a degree of restraint.
Drink 5-7 years plus. One of the
top three wines of the flight. The fifth
wine was the Pencarrow Pinot Noir 2008
(17.0+/20), 13.5% alc, 76% of the fruit from Martinborough, indigenous yeasts
and 9 months in French oak. The second
label for Palliser Estate. Bright ruby
red in colour with depth. This had an
elegant nose of fresh red cherry fruits, quite open and accessible, a touch on
the lighter side of expression. This rests
on its structure, the wine having grip and concentration from the tannins. Though with bright and fresh fruit, the wine
is on the side of leanness and seems a fraction austere. Drink over the next 2-4 years. Final wine of the flight was the Julicher Estate ’99 Rows’ Pinot Noir 2008
(17.0-/20), at 13.5% alc, Te Muna Road fruit, clones 5, 6, 667, 114 and 115,
100% destemmed, 10 months n 15% new French oak.
Slightly dull purple-red colour.
Soft lollyish nose, sweet boiled fruits, some sour, savoury, complex
notes to the bouquet. A well-structured
wine with good grip, body and length.
Fruit is a little light in sweetness and expression here. Some complex mushroomy hints. Drink over the next 3-4 years. This was well-like by many tasters who saw
excellent varietal character. Rated one
of the three ‘first-equal’ wines of the flight overall. Awarded gold at the ANZWA 2009.
Flight Two
Beginning
this flight was the Margrain ‘River’s
Edge’ Pinot Noir 2008 (16.0+/20), at 13.0% alc, the second label for Margrain
Vineyards. Pale ruby colour with some
purple hues, this had a delicate, but pure floral and cherry scented nose,
quite youthful and fresh. Though
possessin