Martinborough Pinot Noir 2008 - A Great Vintage

The 2008 vintage for Pinot Noir in Martinborough is a great one, continuing an increasing run of highly successful harvests after what seemed an interminable string of weak years of cool growing conditions, frost strikes and uneconomical low yields. 2003 was a small harvest, as was 2005 and 2007, where quality was the salvation, but 2006 and now 2008 were outstanding in terms of the health of the fruit combined with crop levels. It seems 2009 is another excellent year as may be 2010. This scenario has allowed the return of normal and dependable commercialisation of the wines of the district. And this has pleased the wine consumer, as the Pinot Noir wines of Martinborough are certainly distinctive in their expression, being riper, more full, structured, and complex in flavour comparatively with those of New Zealand’s other growing regions.

Regional Wines conducted two tastings of a wide, but not comprehensive range of Martinborough Pinot Noir from 2008, a great vintage, to celebrate the success of the region. The two dozen wines tasted were separated loosely into “Affordable” and “Super-Premium” events, based on aspirational hierarchy or labelling, show result success and pricing. The former category included some wines over $60.00 in price, but the producer having other wines that were subjectively deemed better, and the latter group having several wines less than $40.00, but had performed well or were the best label offered by a winemaker. The most preferred wine from the “Affordables” was included in the Super-Premiums” for reference and interest. Thus, the tastings were very interesting when considering the concept of value!

As an introduction to the tastings, the concept of varietal expression and balance with terroir were explored, with discussion of the Martinborough ‘style’ as noted above. The region’s geography, soil types and sub-regional differences were touched. Key factors in the growing and making of Pinot Noir wines were covered: Vineyard source and single vineyard expression, clonal material, from Mariafeld, 10/5, Abel, Pommard (UCD4,5 & 6) and Dijon (113, 114, 115, 667 & 777), rootstocks and vigour, plus age of the vines. Then whole bunch and destemming, cold soaking, indigenous or inoculated yeasts, peak ferment temperatures, time on skins and resultant alcohol levels. Finally oak maturation regime including time, type and % new, fining and filtering and volumes of production.

For both tastings, the 12 wines presented were served ‘blind’ in two flights of six. The identity of the first flight wines was revealed after discussion. Following are my notes on the wines tasted:

Tasting One: “The Affordables” – Thursday 8 July
Flight One
The first wine was The Edge Pinot Noir 2008 (16.5+/20), 13.8% alc, the second label for Escarpment Vineyard, made without oak contact. Pale ruby red in colour with purple hues, this had bright, fresh cherryish fruit on the nose, up-front, simple and with good volume. The palate possessed fresh, bright red fruit flavours, quite vibrant and healthy, with a noticeable acid component and moderate tannin grip. Simple and attractive, for drinking over the next 2-3 years. Next was the Ata Rangi ‘Crimson’ Pinot Noir 2008 (17.5-/20), 14.0% alc, young vine fruit, 100% destemmed, indigenous yeast ferment, 9 months in 25% new French oak. A wine dedicated to ‘Project Crimson’, the protection of native red-flowering trees. Deep, purple hued ruby red in colour, this had a soft, dense bouquet of ripe cherries and dark plums. A well-textured wine with firmish tannins, there was sweetness to the fruit, but in essence a little restrained and dulled down. Drink over the next 3-5 years. Third was one of the three ‘first-equal’ preferred wines of the flight, the Kiritea Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5/20), 14.0% alc, Te Muna Road fruit, wild yeast fermented and aged 11 months in seasoned oak. The second label for Te Hera Estate. Deep ruby red in colour, this had a soft, full, rich and dense nose of cherry liqueur, the palate showing density and richness of fruit with excellent structure and extraction in balance, plus good acid freshness A well-proportioned wine with good length. Good drinking for the next 5 years. The best value wine of the tasting! Then the Escarpment Vineyard ‘Pahi’ Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5+/20), at 13.4% alc, from the McCreanor vineyard, Princess Street, 10/5 clone, vines 25+ y.o., indigenous yeast fermented, 12 months in 30% new French oak. Dark, deep, purple hued ruby red in colour, this had a solid, full and vibrant nose of fresh red berry fruits. Luscious, fleshy, bright and juicy on palate with plenty of cherryish fruit, this had excellent tannin grip providing balanced structure and a degree of restraint. Drink 5-7 years plus. One of the top three wines of the flight. The fifth wine was the Pencarrow Pinot Noir 2008 (17.0+/20), 13.5% alc, 76% of the fruit from Martinborough, indigenous yeasts and 9 months in French oak. The second label for Palliser Estate. Bright ruby red in colour with depth. This had an elegant nose of fresh red cherry fruits, quite open and accessible, a touch on the lighter side of expression. This rests on its structure, the wine having grip and concentration from the tannins. Though with bright and fresh fruit, the wine is on the side of leanness and seems a fraction austere. Drink over the next 2-4 years. Final wine of the flight was the Julicher Estate ’99 Rows’ Pinot Noir 2008 (17.0-/20), at 13.5% alc, Te Muna Road fruit, clones 5, 6, 667, 114 and 115, 100% destemmed, 10 months n 15% new French oak. Slightly dull purple-red colour. Soft lollyish nose, sweet boiled fruits, some sour, savoury, complex notes to the bouquet. A well-structured wine with good grip, body and length. Fruit is a little light in sweetness and expression here. Some complex mushroomy hints. Drink over the next 3-4 years. This was well-like by many tasters who saw excellent varietal character. Rated one of the three ‘first-equal’ wines of the flight overall. Awarded gold at the ANZWA 2009.

Flight Two
Beginning this flight was the Margrain ‘River’s Edge’ Pinot Noir 2008 (16.0+/20), at 13.0% alc, the second label for Margrain Vineyards. Pale ruby colour with some purple hues, this had a delicate, but pure floral and cherry scented nose, quite youthful and fresh. Though possessing clean and bright fruit on the palate, this was a little skinny, lacking a little depth and richness, resulting in a firmish mouthfeel. Drinking now to 2 years. Next was the Escarpment Vineyard ‘Te Rehua’ Pinot Noir 2008 (18.0-/20), at 13.6% alc, fruit from the Barton vineyard, Huangarua Road, mix of clones, vines 20+ y.o., indigenous yeasts, 12 months in 30% new French oak. Deep ruby red with purple hues to the colour, this had a rich and dense nose, with concentrated dark cherry aromatics. Quite fine and elegant on palate, the fruit was a little shy, though fresh and bright. Drink over 4-6 years plus. Next was the third preferred wine of the flight, the Escarpment Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008 (19.0-/20), at 13.4% alc, 70% Te Muna Road fruit, 20% whole bunch, indigenous yeast fermented, 11 months in 30% new French oak. Dark, deep ruby red in colour, this had a lovely nose of fresh, vibrant cherryish fruit, with a steely, mineral edge, and floral perfumes. Rich, lush and quite densely concentrated, the tannin extraction was very fine-grained and perfectly balanced, resulting in a seamless presentation. Classical Martinborough Pinot Noir that will drink well over the next 4-6 years plus. The most preferred wine of the flight and of the this tasting was the Craggy Range ‘Te Muna Road’ Pinot Noir 2008 (19.0-/20), at 13.7% alc, from Te Muna Road fruit, 5% whole bunch, indigenous yeasts, 10 months in 33% new French oak. Dar, deep ruby red with purple and black hues. This had a fulsome and broad nose with great depth of dark berry and plum aromas, rich and with complexing herb-earth notes. Full-bodied, rich and sweetly fruited with flavours of dark cherries and plums, subtly supported by oak spice, this was firmly constructed. Slight alcohol warmth and fresh acidity were noticeable, and the wine finished with great length. A wine that will keep 6-8 years plus. This was followed by the Wild Rock ‘Strugglers Flat’ Pinot Noir 2008 (17.0+/20), at 13.7% alc, fruit from Te Muna Road, 100% destemmed, 8 months in 50% French oak, 20% new barrels. A secondary label for Craggy Range. Pale ruby red in colour, this has a delicate and fragrant nose, attractively ethereal, with florals and cherries and tamarillo fruit. An elegant wine, with light cherry-herbal fruit, the palate had fine tannins that dried the palate on finish. Drink over 2-4 years. Fourth preferred of the flight. Gold at the Liquorland IWC 2009. The last wine of the flight and of the tasting was the Martinborough Vineyard ‘Te Tera’ Pinot Noir 2008 (17.5+/20), at 13.5% alc, Martinborough Terrace fruit, multi clones from vines up to 27 y.o., 100% destemmed, indigenous yeasts, 10 months on 15% new oak. The second label for Martinborough Vineyard. Medium deep ruby red with purple hues. Voluminous nose, ethereal wild strawberries with savoury notes and forest elements. Elegantly proportioned wine with line and length. Ethereal savoury red fruits, dried herbs, forest complexities, with fine tannin structure allowing accessibility. Attractive secondary notes appearing. Drinking well now and over 3-4 years plus. The second preferred wine of the flight.

Conclusions
Though not strictly statistically sound, the wines were ranked in the following order by way of a show of hands for preferences by all the tasters, combined with my own scores to settle any ties. This could be interpreted as a ‘group ranking’, and my personal preferences can be seen by the scores for each wine:
1^st Craggy Range ‘Te Muna Road 
2^nd= Escarpment Vineyard ‘Pahi’ 
2^nd= Kiritea 
4^th Julicher Estate ’99 Rows’ 
5^th Martinborough Vineyard ‘Te Tera’ 
6^th Escarpment Vineyard
7^th Wild Rock ‘Strugglers Flat’
8^th Escarpment Vineyard ‘Te Rehua’
9^th Ata Rangi ‘Crimson’
10^th Pencarrow
11^th The Edge
12^th Margrain ‘River’s Edge’
Though labelled “The Affordables” with a number of second labels, the quality and homogeneity of the fruit across the group was impressive. This reflects the outstanding nature of the vintage yielding ripeness and clean fruit. There was a range of quality, as could be expected, several wines showing richness of fruit, excellent structure and individuality of fruit source, all indicating a life of 6-8 years plus ahead, Some of the wines showed their ‘second-class’ nature, the fruit lacking in richness, somewhat cooler in expression or more forward in evolution. However, it was the tightness of quality that was particularly pleasing. It would be expected that the next tasting would have greater objectively assessed high quality fruit expression without the deficiencies seen in this tasting, and maybe more individuality, this aspect appreciated more subjectively.

Tasting Two: “The Super-Premiums” – Monday 12 July
Flight One
The very first wine served was the most preferred wine of the flight and possibly of the this ‘Part Two’ tasting if not the overall ‘best’. The Escarpment Vineyard ‘Kiwa’ Pinot Noir 2008 (19.5+/20), at 13.9% alc, fruit from the Clelland vineyard, Cambridge Road, clones 5, 6 and 13, vines 19 y.o., 12 months in 30% new French oak, was deep, darkly coloured ruby red, with a full, complex bouquet of violets, ripe raspberries, dark-red fruits and smoky, savoury, meaty, fungal nuances. Rich on palate with density, concentration and marvellously lush, sweet fruit, this was backed by fine, firm tannins, contributing to great concentration, depth and length. Great, complex flavoured Pinot Noir that will live 8+ years easily. Next was the Palliser Estate Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5-/20), at 14.2% alc, from 10/5 and Dijon clones 115, 777 and 667, aged 12 months in French barriques. This had a brilliant medium-deep ruby red colour with a fresh, brash nose of ripe, peppery dark cherry fruits, still youthful and raw. On palate, this had bright, rich dark berry fruit flavours framed within a structure composed of firm tannin grip and fresh, lively acidity. This needs another 1-2 years to soften, then it will live another 6-8 years easily. The third wine was the ‘best’ of ‘The Affordables’, the Craggy Range ‘Te Muna Road’ Pinot Noir 2008 (19.0-/20), at 13.7% alc, from Te Muna Road fruit, 5% whole bunch, indigenous yeasts, 10 months in 33% new French barriques. Bright ruby-red with purple hues to the colour, this had a beautifully perfumed nose of florals and cherries, the fragrance exciting, just a touch shy. On palate the rich, sweetly ripe red and dark fruits were the feature, supported by significant, but extremely fine and supple tannins. This was very elegant, and possessed ‘feminine’ finesse. The second preferred of the flight for the tasters. Interestingly, in this flight and with this company, the wine seemed less structured and firm than in the Part One tasting. Next was the Escarpment Vineyard ‘Kupe’ Pinot Noir 2008 (19.5/20), at 12.9% alc, all Abel clone, close-planted on Te Muna Road, 10 y.o. vines, 30% whole bunch, 12 months in 50% new French barriques. Pale ruby red, but brilliant in colour, this had a wonderfully full, ethereal nose of florals, cool and pure, blossoming with air time, just complexed by hints of oak spice. On palate showing superb sweetness of fruit, quite delicate and refined, the vibrancy quite remarkable, enhanced by fairly racy acidity. The structure is very tine-grained and underscores the wine. Layers of ethereal aromatic characters emerge. There are dimensions and the ‘peacock’s tail’. This should keep 7-8 years easily. The third equal preferred for the group, with the same ranking as the Te Hera Estate Pinot Noir 2008 (18.0+/20), 14.2% alc, fruit from Te Muna Road, Dijon clones 113, 114, 115, 667 and 777, 10-12 y.o. vines, 100% destemmed, wild yeast ferment, 11 months in 33% new French barriques. Dark, deep, ruby red in colour, this had dark berry fruits with a musky note, lifted by a little VA on the nose, with savoury, ripe chocolate and cherry aromas with breathing. A full, solid and dense wine, this was rounded and soft on the palate, the acidity level lowish, giving easy accessibility for the size of the wine. Drink over 5-7 years plus. Final wine of the flight was the Dry River Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5+/20), at 13.0% alc, fruit from Dry River, Craighall and Lovat blocks, clone 5 with some 10/5 and Dijon clones, 20% whole bunch, inoculated and aged 12 months in 20% new French oak hogsheads. Very dar ruby-red with purple hues, this had a very concentrated, full nose, quite dense, with dark cherry fruit and sweet plums, along with vibrancy and aromatic lift. Full and dense on palate, this had a softness and restraint of fruit expression, yet there was richness, weight and texture. Flavours of dark cherry and plum fruit carried through the palate, enhanced by hints of jam and spices. A full, sizeable and hearty wine with decadence that will keep well for 7-9 years easily. Some tasters felt this wine was the least ‘typical’.

Flight Two
This began with a wine that was described as essential and classical Martinborough Pinot Noir style. The Vynfields Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5/20), at 14.0% alc, certified organic fruit from the Martinborough Terrace, 100% destemmed, aged 14 months in 40% new French barriques, had a dark, deep, ruby red colour and a fresh, vibrant, up-front, yet deeply intense dark cherry fruited nose. On palate, this possessed lovely sweet cherry fruit backed by fine, moderately firm, but supple tannins, enlivened by excellent acidity. Hints of iodine and cedar gave real interest. A wine to enjoy over 6-8 years. Next was the Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008 (19.0+/20), at 13.8% alc, from Wharekauhau, Home Block, Duncan’s Paddock and Moy Hall, clones Abel, 667, 115, 10/5 and 5, vines up to 28 y.o., indigenous yeasts, 12 months in 33% new French oak barriques. Lightish, pale ruby red in colour, this had a shy, delicate nose , quite tight still, with attractive florals, soft red fruits and some oak spice noticeable on bouquet. Medium weighted and elegant in style, this had sumptuously sweet fruit on palate with beautiful florals and refined tannin structure. The acidity kept the wine vibrant and youthfully fresh. A wine of sheer beauty and finesse. The balance will enable 7-9 years plus of cellaring. Third in the flight and third preferred in the group was the Julicher Estate Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5/20), at 13.5% alc, fruit from Te Muna Road. Abel, clone 115 with some 667 and 777, 100% destemmed, 11 months in 20% new French oak. Dark deep ruby red in colour, this had a rugged and powerful nose, quite chunky, quite individual and distinctive with savoury, herb, tobacco and feral, almost reductive characters, of real interest. However, deliciously sweet, juicy and supple on palate, initially seeming fully structured and deep, but becoming fresh and elegant with the fresh acidity. Drink over 5-6+ years. The most preferred wine of the flight for the group was the Pond Paddock Pinot Noir 2008 (18.5-/20), at 13.7% alc, fruit from Te Muna Road, Abel, 667, 114 and clone 5, 100% destemmed and aged 11 months in 30% new French oak. Medium deep, pale ruby colour, this had a lighter, less voluminous bouquet with very attractive, delicate soft red fruit and floral aromatics along with black tea and aniseed notes. A more delicate, shy and smaller-scale wine, all the componentry was in excellent proportion. Lovely subtle red fruits with aniseed, backed by supple tannins, all pointing to elegance. Enjoy over the next 5-6 years. The second last wine tasted was the Craggy Range ‘Aroha’ Pinot Noir 2008 (19.0-/20), at 13.5% alc, fruit from Te Muna Road, 5% destemmed, indigenous yeasts, 14 months in 37% new French barriques. Dark, deep ruby red in colour, this possessed a rich, subtle bouquet, with restrained sumptuousness. Though a little closed, there was a brooding core and concentration. On palate, this was a wine of density and weight, real size and presence, showing rich dark-red fruit characters, the aromatic nature waiting to unfold. At present quite closed and somewhat dulled, but the potential is obvious. Finishes with real length. This is 10 year wine. Described as Pommard in style by one taster. The final wine of the flight was the second most preferred. The Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2008 (20.0/20), at 13.5% alc, from Ata Rangi, Champ Ali, Di Mattina, Cambrae, Lismore and Dodd sites, being Abel, clone 5, 114, 115, 667 and 10/5, vines up to 29 y.o., 5% whole bunch, indigenous yeasts and 12 months in 25% new French oak. This had a dark deep purple hued ruby red colour with a beautifully vibrant, floral and red berry fruit nose, just intense and fine, and penetrating. On palate, a multi-faceted wine with a myriad of nuances to the red cherry fruit, cherry liqueur and floral flavours and hints of red plums. The sweetness and richness of fruit is brightened by perfect acidity. There is density with elegance. Purity yet great individuality of expression. A wine that will drink with immense pleasure over the next 8-10 years.

Conclusions
My preferences regarding the wines are clear from the scores posted with each wine. However, a ‘group ranking’ could be made by comparing a show of hands for people’s first and second choices, with any ties separated by my scores combined with comments made about the two flights. Again, it should be stressed that this result is not necessarily statistically sound:
1^st Escarpment Vineyard ‘Kiwa’
2^nd Pond Paddock
3^rd Ata Rangi
4^th Craggy Range ‘Te Muna Road’
5^th Julicher Estate
6^th Escarpment ‘Kupe’
7^th Te Hera Estate
8^th Vynfields
9^th Martinborough Vineyard
10^th Craggy Range ‘Aroha’
11^th Palliser Estate
12^th Dry River
This flight of ‘Super-Premiums’ seemed more consistent and cohesive as a group with respect to the quality of the fruit expression. It was in a tighter range of fruit flavours, more in the fully-ripened end of the spectrum, whereas ‘The Affordables’ had a number of wines showing cooler expression, not quite the concentration, nor the richness or interest of character. However, the styles expressed were diverse. For me, this second group of wines was superior, earning the title of ‘Super Premiums’.

Overall, the two parts of this tasting demonstrated the superlative nature and quality of the 2008 vintage for Pinot Noir in Martinborough. The fruit ripeness of the wines as a group was exemplary. The tannin extraction on the whole was managed superbly and in harmony and balance with the fruit – for all the different weights and styles made. Acidity levels varied, and for me, this was a key to the final quality level in many of the wines. Oaking too was very sensitive, only a few showing a little too much. And technically, these were an excellent group, any quibbles quite minor.

What is most important are the ramifications for the consumer. The 2008 Martinborough Pinot Noirs must be the finest release ever. Across the board, the wines deliver satisfaction and great drinking. They will drink and keep well for close to a decade for the better wines, and will develop greater interest and complexity in that time. The Martinborough ‘terroir’ is very obvious yet there is sufficient diversity to make a multitude of wonderful drinking comparisons for years to come. And there are wines at every price point from very affordable to luxury-class. This is a vintage to stock up on, if there ever was one. I recommend you do so, while the wines are still available.