ITEM:
TOTAL:
Wine Review

Mills Reef Gimblett Gravels Reds

By Raymond Chan
Though based in Tauranga, the Mills Reef wines are well and truly representative of Hawke’s Bay and the Gimblett Gravels. With 16 hectares of vineyards over two sites in Mere Road and another 14 hectares at the Plateau site, Mills Reef is one of the major players of the Gimblett Gravels with a large number of top award winning wines across different varieties. This tasting featured a selection of the Reserve range of wines and the barrel select ‘Elspeth’ range, from recent vintages. We were scheduled to have Tim Preston present the wines, but had winemaker Paul Darwick stand in due to Tim’s last minute unavailability. A ‘down to earth’ man, Paul provided us with his vintage chart for this decade:

2001
Frost

2002
Bloody hot

2003
Frost

2004
Warm to hot

2005
Frost and warm to hot

2006
Hot – thought to be the best ever vintage

2007
Bloody hot again. The best ever vintage

2008
? OK Hard work. Some frost and late rain. Picked early

2009
Looking great again

Following are my notes on the wines at the tasting:

Viognier


A new variety for Mills Reef, the winemaking incorporates the intention of having a wine that is expressive of varietal character and one without excessive winemaker artefact. Fruit from the Plateau vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels. The Mills Reef Reserve Viognier 2008 (18.0-/20) at 13.5% alc and 2 g/l rs was all BF in 4 y.o. oak and 20% underwent MLF. Youthful in appearance, this was fresh, tight and elegant with orange zest and bright apricot flavours on a palate that was firm and tight, crisp and refreshing, somewhat undeveloped as yet, but with presence and a little alcoholic heat showing. The Mills Reef Reserve Viognier 2007 (18.5-/20) at 14.5% alc, after BF and 3 months maturation in 4 y.o. and 2 y.o. oak was broader on the palate with a richness and lusciousness to the apricot flavours which were nuanced with savoury secondary characters. Some toasty notes and warmth showing, and drinking well now.

The Reserve Reds


The wines under the Reserve designation have been very successful on the show circuit and are priced to be popular. The Mills Reef Reserve Merlot/Malbec 2007 (18.0+/20), a blend of 51% Me, 42% Ma and 7% CF aged in French an US oak for 7 months was dark coloured with bright anf juicy primary berry aromas and flavours. Plump and decadent, this fleshy red with subtle spice notes was a crowd pleaser. The Mills Reef Reserve Syrah 2007 (17.5-/20) made from fruit from the Plateau vineyard was co-fermented with 2.4% Viognier. Elegant in expression, this had pepper and black fruit with violet aromas on a firm, somewhat austere palate. Some coffee notes too. This could handle a little more time in bottle. The Mills Reef Reserve Cabernet/Merlot 2007 (18.0/20) is 60% CS, 39% Me and 1% Ma from the Mere Road and Plateau vineyards. Youthful in appearance, this had classical blackcurrant and plum flavours on a supple, but intense palate. There was good structure and firm grip underneath, and the wine had good length.

The 2005 ‘Elspeth’ Reds


The ‘lesser’ Bordeaux varietals featured in this bracket. The Mills Reef ‘Elspeth’ Malbec 2005 (18.0+/20) from 100% Ma grown in Mere Road was aged for 18 months in French oak. Black impenetrable red in colour, this was full and powerful with spices, game and savoury plum/berry flavours. Plump and dense, this was backed with excellent tannin grip. The wine is now developing some secondary characteristics. The Mills Reef ‘Elspeth’ Cabernet Franc 2005 (18.5-/20), also from Mere Road and aged 18 months in French oak, was a little lighter in appearance. Classic in its elegant expression, this combined fragrant and aromatic berry fruits with secondary earth components on a serious, refined palate with structure and concentration. Both wines demonstrated their varietal integrity.

The 2006 ‘Elspeth’ Reds


A fascinating flight with different component wines as well as a blended wine to show the result of combining the separate wines. The Mills Reef ‘Elspeth’ Merlot 2006 (18.0+/20) was made in open top fermenters with hand plunging. Impenetrable black red, this combined sweet fruit with game, savoury plum and fruit cake aromas and flavours on a full, dense tannic palate. Broad and plump, a nutty, oxidative component came through too. Paul noted that the Merlot variety was not suited to the use of the Integrale barrels for fermentation as used in the Cabernet Sauvignon. The Mills Reef ‘Elspeth’ Cabernet/Merlot 2006 (18.5-/20) is a blend of 60% CS and 40% Me, using the wine tasted either side of this one tasted. Medium deep purple colour, this was a lovely amalgam of fragrance and perfumes with cassis, and savoury game. Beautifully succulent, this was tight and dense, quite elegant in style, with fine tannins and acidity providing a cut to the mouthfeel. The 9.0+/20) was made with 40% of the must going into Integrale barrels. Ruby red colour with a little Mills Reef ‘Elspeth’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (1 garnet hue, this had a classical blackcurrant varietal expression with full ripeness and balanced oak. The wine combined power with finesse, richness and lusciousness with fine and firm tannins and superb acidity. A wine of freshness, youth and length. This should age extremely well. The final wine of the flight was the Mills Reef ‘Elspeth’ Syrah 2006 (18.5+/20). 100% fermented in Integrale using indigenous yeasts, this spent 15 months in 80% new oak. Wonderfully perfumed with spices, pepper and florals, this was tight and restrained at present. The varietal characters of spices, dark berries and florals were kept in check with the extraction. This is a candidate for cellaring.

The Icon Wine


Named after Paddy Preston’s mother, this a a selection of the finest barrels and a blend of all five varietals grown in the Mere Road vineyard. The Mills Reef ‘Elspeth One’ 2005 (18.5+/20) is a blend of 30.8% Syrah and 17.3% each of CS, CF, Me and Ma. Dark hearted in colour, this had a restrained nose with underlying richness and voluptuousness. Tightly bound dark plums and berries with a spice and lifted element, the wine was framed within a full and solid structure. A wine of nuance and interest that will unfold its qualities with time.
Some New Products...
ESCARPMENT PINOT NOIR KUPE 10
Escarpment Pinot Noir Kupe 10
13.5% alc 12 year old vines from Escarpment’s Te Muna Road vineyard. 50% new oak 60% w...
$86.30 750 MLS
More...
ESCARPMENT PINOT NOIR TE REHUA 10
Escarpment Pinot Noir Te Rehua 10
14 %alc 21 year old vines from Barton vineyard. Mixture of clones. 30% new oak 40% whol...
$67.15 750 MLS
More...
MT HORROCKS RIESLING W/VALE 11
Mt Horrocks Riesling W/Vale 11
Light straw-green; a complex bouquet, with spice and citrus, then a multilayered palate wi...
$32.95 750ML MLS
More...
MT HORROCKS SHIRAZ 09
Mt Horrocks Shiraz 09
Bright, clear crimson-purple; the fragrant bouquet leads into a wonderfully expressive med...
$37.65 750 MLS
More...

1   
Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
Breaking News
16-May-2012 - RT @Wellington_JAG: One of the most amazing wine experiences of my life with @regionalwines & Christopher Canan tasting @DOMAINEGUIG ...
16-May-2012 - Absorbing read...the full gamut of emotions from envy to schadenfreude. Click Here
12-May-2012 - Free Mt Difficulty wine tasting starting in 10 mins. Plus we have 20 fill your own taps as of yesterday...great... Click Here
12-May-2012 - Free Mt Difficulty tasting starting in 10 mins until 4 pm today. We now have 20 beer taps too...gerat day to be... Click Here
View More...
Sign-up   below to be the first in the know on everything from tastings to specials...
Library Tasting: 1992 – 1994 Cabernet and Shiraz From Several Countries
Thursday 17th May, 6.00pm start, Cost $50.00 pp Limit 22 places. Upstairs Tasting Room, Regional Wines and Spirits, 15 Ellice St, Mt Victoria. Booking

Craggy Range 2010 Prestige Release with Steve Smith MW
Tuesday 22nd May, 6.00 pm start, Cost $30.00 pp, Limit 80 places Venue: The Boatshed, Taranaki St Wharf Bookings: With Regional Wines, Tel: 385-6952

Burgundy Tasting - Maison Drouhin 2009
Thursday 31st May, 6.00pm start, Cost $35.00 pp Limit 30 places. Upstairs Tasting Room, Regional Wines and Spirits, 15 Ellice St, Mt Victoria. Booking

Contact & Enquiries
Main Line: - 04 3856952

Orders Line: 04 3849735

Fax Line: 04 3828488

Hours: Mon – Sat 9am –10pm
Sunday & Public Holidays
11am - 7.30pm
Need Help?
Try our FAQ Section

If you can't find what you are after, give us a call or pop into the store!
People! Who we are
We're a talented mix of people who love what we do, and we've been doing it for over 20 years! Click here to find out more
Copyright © 2010 Regional Wines Limited
Website by: Slice Of HAM   Design by: Plastic Studio