By Raymond Chan and
Sue Davies
An evening
with James Millton is always
exciting and interesting. James is a
thought-provoking person, always inquisitive and always keen to add to his
knowledge, wanting to understand everything around him. He is strong with his own beliefs, and his
ideals and way of working and his way of life, is aspirational if not
inspirational. To follow the biodynamic
path in winegrowing over 25 years has seem James, his wife Annie, family and
business become settled ant at one with the world around them. With maturity has come consistency and
stability. It can be seen in action,
heard in word and tasted in the wines that come from the Millton Vineyard. It must be gratifying for the Milltons, once
alone, now joined by a groundswell of other winegrowers who have embraced the
biodynamic approach to making wine; a greater broad understanding acceptance of
organics, and the official recognition of sustainability. It was a real pleasure to have James Millton present a range of his wines at
Regional. Here are our notes on the
wines tasted:
Crazy by Nature
To start the
tasting, we sampled two new wines under the ‘Crazy by Nature’ label, a sort of
recognition that the Milltons have been seen as being different in thought,
action and life, but with a empathy towards nature and the environment. The packaging is particularly eye-catching
and funky, and attractive, wine a fun element, exactly as the wines are. The Millton
‘Crazy by Nature’ ‘Shotberry’ Chardonnay 2008 (16.5+/20), made from
certified organic grapes was 12.5% alc. and 6.6 g/l rs. Light straw golden yellow in colour, this was
soft and peachy on the nose, pretty well dry on palate with a good rounded
body. Simple, upfront, and a decent
solid wine that will be very drinkable and versatile. Matching it was the Millton ‘Crazy by Nature’ ‘Cosmo Red’ 2007 (17.5-/20), a blend of
Malbec, Syrah and Viognier at 14.0% alc and 3.9 g/l rs. Bright, dark ruby red with youthful purple
hues in colour, this was a fruity, juicy red with plenty of dark plum and berry
jam fruit lifted with a touch of eucalypt, spice and pepper. The palate was soft, and uncomplicated,
supple, without any overt grip. Fresh
and lively.
The Estate Vineyard Wines
A two part
flight, a pair of wines that led to a quartet that demonstrated the four
expressions of taste. First was the
equivalent to the ‘Shotberry’ Chardonnay, from the previous vintage. The Millton
‘Riverpoint’ Chardonnay 2007 (17.5+/20) was partially oak fermented to
13.0% alc. and 5.3 g/l rs. Straw
lemon-yellow in colour, this was still tight and elegant with ripe grapefruit
aromas, and ripe citrus fruit flavours on the palate, along with a delicate
touch of oak and fresh acidity.
Attractive for its fruit, tight structure and length, this will keep
well and is indicative of the good vintage.
Next was the Alsace-inspired Millton
‘Clos Monique’ ‘Les Trois Enfants’ 2009 (18.5+/20). Affectionately called ‘The Three Kids’ by
James Millton, this is the harvest of approx. 50% Gewurztraminer, 12.5% Muscat
a petit grains and 37.5% Viognier from one vineyard, co-fermented to 14.0% alc.
and 7 g/l rs. Youthful pale straw in
appearance, this had a beautifully aromatic bouquet of musky floral and grapes,
archetype Muscat in expression. On
palate fairly well dry, a little alcoholic heat on entry, but excellent weight
and rounded textures, no doubt from the Viognier, with spices and earth of
well-ripened Gewurztraminer dominating the flavours. Lifted florals from the muscat in the
background. Round and lush, but dry on
finish. This has serendipitously come
together exceptionally well.
Then four
wines with the attributes of salt, savoury, acid and sweetness, the
cornerstones of taste. Representing
saltiness was the Millton ‘Riverpoint’
Viognier 2008 (18.5-/20), fermented in stainless steel and oak to 14.0%
alc. and 4.6 g/l rs. Pale straw yellow
in colour, this possessed a full, musky, apricotty nose, excellent in
volume. On palate, dry, but with a rich
and vibrant apricot, stonefruit and honey flavours, quite unctuous in texture,
well-weighted, with good length. Mineral
and seaside, salt nuances. Next, was the
flavour expression of savouriness, in the Millton
Vineyard ‘Opou’ Chardonnay 2007 (18.0+/20), made from clones 15, 95 and
Mendoza, indigenous yeast fermented in oak barrels to 14.0% alc. and 2.5 g/l
rs. Light golden straw in colour, this
had a lovely ripe fruited nose with a mealy, nutty nose, toasty barrel-fermentation
elements and some MLF. Full and broad on
palate, this had excellent richness of ripe tropical fruits, mealiness, with
toasty oak, all in balance with good acidity.
Showing acidity was the Millton ‘Te
Arai’ Chenin Blanc 2007 (18.0+/20), wgich was fermented in 600 litre
demi-muids to 12.0% alc. and 11.0 g/l rs.
Brilliant lemon straw yellow, this showed white stonefruits, herbs and
dry straw aromas, and a little SO2, very much in classical Loire style. Dry on palate, the 9.0 g/l acidity balancing
the residual sugar, this was crisp, steely and still tightly bound, the white
stonefruit and straw flavours distinctive and present. Apple, honey and custard nuances also apparent,
and the sweetness shows on the finish.
This will need time to develop and should keep well for 5-7 years or
more. Finally, representing sweetness
was the new Millton ‘Opou’ Riesling 2009
(18.0+/20), sitting at 12.0% alc. and 25 g/l residual sugar. Pale straw yellow with green hues, this showed
real concentration and depth of fruit on the bouquet, but still somewhat raw
and unsettled. Good volume of floral,
limes, peachy fruit and a little honey. Off
dry, this was fairly full and broad, with its riper fruit, and a rounded palate
reflected its North Island origins.
Lovely honied elements, some texture through the palate, and all very
attractive.
Clos de Ste Anne
These are the
Millton’s flagship or ‘grand cru’ wines from the Clos de Ste Anne vineyard,
which has steep, north-east facing slopes on loam soil over calcareous
sedimentary rock. The wines are a
tribute to Annie Millton. Firstly, the
burgundian pair. The Millton ‘Clos de Ste Anne’ Chardonnay 2007
(19.0/20) was made from fruit from 20 y.o. vines from the original Naboth’s
Vineyard, fully barrel-fermented with wild yeasts, and given lees aging, but no
MLF, resulting in 14.0% alc and 4 g/l rs.
Ligh