Some wines have an indefinable quality of magic that transcends all
empiricism. Those from Misha’s Vineyard
in the Bendigo sub-region of Central
Otago have it. The inaugural
release last year yielded a range of four varietals that tantalized wine
enthusiasts. The 2008 Gewurztraminer
from this release took gold at the Air N.Z. Wine Awards that year, and the 2008
vintages of Riesling, Pinot Gris and 2007 ‘Audition’ Pinot Noir stood right
behind this winner. Of course, the
quantities were minuscule, but there are still bottles of the Gewurztraminer
and Riesling around if you look hard enough.
The 2009 whites and 2008 reds were recently previewed it can be reported
that they have the magic as well.
Misha’s Viineyard is the passion of Misha and Andy Wilkinson, whose desire
to make a range of exceptional quality cool-climate wines is to enrichen their
lives and those around them. Residing in
both Singapore and New Zealand, the style and potential of the
Central Otago wines, and their suitability in matching Western and Asian
cuisines was the inspiration for Andy and Misha to establish a 57 hectare
vineyard at the southern end of Bendigo,
overlooking Lake Dunstan in 2005. The Wilkinson’s have a professional motto “no
compromise” and this has earned them great respect in the business world, and
it is apparent in the development of their wines. To that end, the advice and services of Dr
Richard Smart, world-renowned viticulturist and Robin Dicey, the most
experienced viticulturist in Central Otago
were engaged. Winemaking is the domaine
of Olly Masters, whose continuing work at Ata Rangi, and consultancy for other
Martinborough wineries as well as Seresin Estate in Marlborough, has earned him the reputation as
one of the finest winemakers in the country.
Not withstanding the input of these experts, the ideals of the owners,
as well as the special ‘terroir’ of the Bendigo region where Misha’s Vineyard
is sited, the wines possess a certain style of elegance, purity of minerality expression
and feel of quality that is over and above what could be expected. Following are Raymond’s notes and scores on
the new release wines, which will come available in the near future:
Misha’s Vineyard ‘Dress Circle’
Pinot Gris 2009
Straw yellow in colour, this has a youthful, fresh bouquet of spicy pears
along with a minerally note. At present,
some fermentation esters are showing and actually add lift to the nose. Quite rich and more luscious than its 5.0 g/l
residual sugar would suggest, this has very good weight and textural
qualities. There is a little heat
showing, the alcohol at 14.8% indicative of the full ripeness of the
fruit. Quite unctuous, yet with a lovely
crispness and freshness. 31% of the wine
was indigenous yeast fermented in old oak barrels and considerable interest and
complexity will emerge over the next 2-4 years.
936 cases made. 18.0-/20
Misha’s Vineyard ‘Limelight’
Riesling 2009
A very limited wine with only 152 cases made. 11.9% alcohol and 26 g/l residual sugar. 83% stainless steel fermented with the
remainder naturally fermented in old oak to enhance the minerality of the
wine. Pale straw yellow with youthful
green hues, this has beautiful aromas of limes, honey, steel and minerals and
comes across as off-dry on the palate, the clean, racy acidity preventing any
cloying. Lovely raciness with the
sweetness offering counterpoise and a luscious note. Tightly bound, and a cross between the wines
of the Eden Valley
in Australia and the Mosel
in Germany,
style-wise. This should develop well
over the next five years. 19.0-/20
Misha’s Vineyard ‘The Gallery’
Gewurztraminer 2009
A youthful straw yellow colour leads into a cooler, beautifully exotic
expression of Gewurztraminer with its nose of rose water, florals and subtle
spices. Elements of herbs and minerals
keep any sign of broadness away. Off dry
at 10 g/l residual sugar, there is a little heat noticeable from the 14.3%
alcohol. However, this also contributes
to the refined power, depth and richness inherent in the wine, no doubt
contributed by the 30% portion warm fermented with native yeasts in old
oak. Lovely acidity, which can be rare
in Gewurztraminer, and a characteristic nuance of bitterness that the variety
has, also shows. 456 cases made. 18.0/20
Misha’s Vineyard ‘The High Note’
Pinot Noir 2008
The ‘High Note’ is naturally a step up from the very smart, inaugural 2007
‘Audition’ Pinot Noir released last year.
Olly Master’s experience with Pinot Noir has ensured the quality of this
wine. Conventionally made with a cold
soak, natural yeast fermentation with a peak temperature of 32°C, two weeks on
skins and a year’s maturation in 34% new 300 litre French oak. 14.2% alcohol. Deep, youthful, ruby red in colour, this has
a tight and concentrated nose of red and dark fruits, with the familial mineral
and steel notes. On palate the wine has
textural beauty with very fine-grained tannins and a tight construction binding
the wine together. Lovely balance and
poise, with dark, but sweetly ripe cherries melding into toasty oak and mocha
nuances. A classy number indeed. 19.0/20
Misha’s Vineyard ‘Verismo’ Pinot
Noir 2008
A 63 case barrel selection of the 2008 Pinot Noir which was thus 67% new
oak matured and a resultant 14.3% alcohol.
The clonal mix here was 53% clone 5, 34% 115 and 13% 667. Dark, deep purple hued ruby red. Black fruits on the nose complexed by savoury
and game nuances to the bouquet, oak in balance. A powerful and well-structured wine with
considerable extract. Rich and lush dark
cherry flavours, dense and a little raw, needing time to allow
integration. The backward nature of the
wine is typical of many other Bendigo Pinot Noirs, and this is an exceptional
example. To be released in May
2010. 19.5/20
Two 2008 Aromatic Whites
A tasting of previously released Misha’s Vineyard wines that are currently
available reinforced the quality of the inaugural wines. The Misha’s
Vineyard ‘Limelight’ Riesling 2008 (18.0-.0/20) at 11.4% alc., and 29 g/l
rs was still a youthful pale straw yellow colour and tight and minerally on the
nose. Subtle complex toasty notes were
just developing here. Medium-dry on palate, this was beginning to show
secondary toast flavours to the honey and limey-mineral elements. Good concentration and length, the acidity
becoming integral. Only 136 cases were
made. The Misha’s Vineyard ‘The Gallery’ Gewurztraminer 2008 (18.5+/20) at
14.4% alc and 14 g/l rs was pale straw with green hues.. The youth of the wine was evident on the
nose; still tight and concentrated with real depth of rose petal, herbs and
lychee aromas. Off dry, the weight and
texture was a feature. Obviously cooler
climate with its sleekness, this was still fresh and vibrant and carried a very
long finish with a trace of varietal bitterness, perfectly countered by the
level of sweetness. This was the gold
medal winner at the 2008 Air N.Z. Wine Awards, and still looks truly worthy of
it. Only 184 cases were made. Both of these wines are dwindling in supply
and it is advised to obtain them soon, before they are gone!