By Raymond Chan & Sue Davies
As New Zealand’s
oldest continuously operating winemaker, and still under the same ‘ownership’,
Mission Estate holds a special place in our wine industry. The wines have always been popular and
provided good value. The Mission complex and winery is a historic Hawke’s Bay icon
to visit. Paul Mooney has been winemaker
at Mission for
30 years and his abilities to produce excellent wine have a proven track
record. However, over the last few
years, the quality has risen sharply as a result of the greater professional
and commercial approach to the winemaking operation as a whole. Investment in selected sites, including the
Gimblett Gravels, the input of viticulturist Caine Thompson and a new
energy-efficient winery have been some of the factors for this progress. It is interesting to note that Mission are positive in
their use of blending fruit from different sub-regions to obtain balance.
It was with
real pleasure that winemaker Paul Mooney conducted a tasting of a range of his
wines at Regional Wines. The wines
represented what Hawke’s Bay has already proven to excel in – Chardonnay and
the Bordeaux varieties, but also the new and exciting Viognier and Syrah
styles, showing that Mission, though steeped in history, is at the forefront of
innovation. And true to Mission’s ethos, the wines
are made for people to enjoy and remain good value. Following are our notes on the wines tasted:
Flight One: The Whites
The Mission Reserve Viognier 2008 (16.5+/20)
represents a work in progress with this variety. With different fruit sources accessed
previously, this is 100% Woodthorpe grown and fermented to 13.5% alc and aged
in 12% new barriques. Straw coloured,
this was a little oak dominant, though typically aromatic in apricot
characters. A solid, rounded wine with a
little heat showing.
Two
Chardonnays followed. The Mission Reserve Chardonnay 2008 (18.0+/20)
came mainly from the Gimblett Gravels, all barrel fermented to 13.5% alc and
aged 10 months, 25% of the oak new, the wine undergoing 100% MLF. Youthful in appearance, mealy, toasty and
buttery, yet with a minerally, citrusy, elegance and freshness, this was a wine
that appealed to the group of tasters.
The flagship white followed, the Mission
‘Jewelstone’ Chardonnay 2006 (18.5+/20), at 14.3% alc, from Clone 15 fruit
from Te Awanga, this was fermented and aged 18 months in 60% new French oak and
given 100% MLF. Youthful in appearance
as well, this was a bigger, fuller, richer, more concentrated and oakier wine
showing real power and the potential to develop.
Flight Two: Pinot Noir
Just one wine
in this flight, a Pinot Noir wine made from fruit sourced in Central Otago, and
sold only at the cellar door and for functions at Mission,
due to consumer demand for a wine from this variety in the Mission
portfolio, but now made available for retail.
The Mission Reserve Central Otago
Pinot Noir 2007 (17.0+/20) came from fruit obtained through Rudi Bauer of
Quartz Reef, who had worked at Mission
previously. 80% Pisa
and 20% Bendigo
fruit, aged 11 months in 25% new oak. A
lighter wine in colour, weight and fruit intensity than the ‘typical’ Central Otago style, more one of elegant strawberry and
red berry fruit flavours cleanly expressed and with the expected dollop of
thyme herbs. Nevertheless, a classic,
healthy and accessible Pinot Noir to enjoy now.
Flight Three: Bordeaux Varietal Reds
This was a
series of wines to show varietal character, blending and selection. The first was the Mission Reserve Merlot 2007 (18.0+/20), 14.6% alc, made from fruit
from Mere Road in the Gimblett Gravels, aged for 13 months in 25% new French
oak. 5% of the wine was Cabernet
Franc. Full, fruity, with classical dark
plum and berry aromas and flavours, this was a well-ripened wine with good
structure and tannin giving a solidness.
Next was the Mission Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (17.0+/20), with 14.0% alc, fruit coming mainly
from the Moteo region, blended with 8% Cabernet Franc and 7% Merlot, aged 13
months in 20% new French oak. Clear-cut
Cabernet Sauvignon blackcurrant aromas and flavours, a little leafy even. Some acidity showing and not quite the
richness to fill out the palate. Then
followed the Mission Reserve Cabernet/Merlot 2007 (19.0/20)
with 14.2% alc, a blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Cabernet Franc and3%
Petit Verdot, also matured 13 months in 20% new French oak. A beautifully balanced wine of poise with
both major varietal characters showing in proportion, with restraint and
style. Sweet fruit allied to very fine
tannins. A wine possessing a touch of
magic! The flagship Mission ‘Jewelstone’ Cabernet/Merlot/Franc/Petit Verdot 2007
(18.5+/20) was another step up in weight, power, density and concentration, as
well as oaking. The extraction levels
indicated the potential for aging here.
14.3% alc, this is a blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% ,erlot, 20%
Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. The
wine’s components spent 14-16 months in 73% new French oak. The final wine in this flight was a library
example, the Mission Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon 1998 (17.0-/20), made from grapes again as with the 2007, mainly
from the Moteo region. Some tawny hues
on edge, this was ripe and cedary with plenty of savoury secondary characters
including some brettanomyces, which contributed to the dried palate. Nevertheless, a wine of size and structure,
demonstrating the uniqueness of the 1998 vintage and their ability to hold,
contrary to some opinions.
Flight Four: Syrah
Mission has had real success with this
variety, but in general, the wine press have not recognised this as much as
they have with some other ‘more high profile’ producers. This flight showed the ability for Mission to make top
flight examples. The Mission Reserve Syrah 2008 (17.5/20) at 13.3%
alc was co-fermented with 3% Viognier, the fruit from the Gimblett Gravels, and
the wine aged 8 months in 5% new French barriques. Medium weighted, juicy and smooth with red
berry and white pepper charac