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Wine Review
Montana ‘Terroir Series’
By Raymond Chan
We can only applaud the fruits of labour of the viticulturist and winemaker teams at Montana. What they have achieved in the last decade is nothing short of remarkable, in spite of three different ownership structures in a rapidly changing domestic and international market. The quality of the Montana wines at all levels has never been better and all offer true value for money. We, the drinking public of New Zealand, and the rest of the world can be impressed.
For a company of Montana’s size, in our economic situation, it does not make good financial sense to make and market small lots of wine. But in recognition of the importance of ability as well as image, it is of the greatest need to make ultra high quality wines that are distinctive and reflect their origins, wines that by their nature, must be in small quantities. Thus came about the ‘Terroir Series’ of wines, which are representative of their growing origins. The questioning from educated buyers both here in New Zealand as well as those overseas, along with the desire of the Montana team to show the variety of resource available to them has resulted in the ‘Terroir Series’. Indeed, the quantities made are small, from 250 to 500 cases of each label.
Regional Wines was privileged to have Pernod-Ricard’s chief winemaker Jeff Clarke present the new release ‘Terroir Series’ to a group of attendees keen on the exploration and understanding of the concept of terroir in this country. Following are my notes and scores on the wines tasted:
Flight One: Sauvignon Blanc
A group of Sauvignon Blanc wines that demonstrate the differences emanating from the sub-regions of Marlborough. The wines are essentially identically made and the variation in style is a reflection of their growing conditions and site.
Montana ‘Terroir Series - Conders Forest Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007
From the Rapaura region, free-draining young soils, silt and river gravels, the warmest region. Pale straw yellow with green hues. Full, broad and powerfully punchy on the nose, with solid, deep, herb and gooseberry aromas, some sweaty pungency. Dry, full, rich and soft, quite broad and fat on palate. Quite rounded, but with good acidity for freshness. Tropical fruits, luscious and with good length. However the least preferred by the group of tasters. My score 18.0+/20
Montana ‘Terroir Series - Festival Block’ Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007
From the Brancott Valley region on the southern side of the Wairau Valley, cooler and drier than the northern side. Olde, structured soils with clay content. Pale straw colour with youthful green hues. Elegant nose, very finely expressed, florals, gooseberries, herbs and mineral notes, this is refined and tight. Dry, the palate is fine and tightly constructed, combining juiciness and lusciousness with florals and minerals on an acid-based palate. Very intense and steely. Just marginally the most preferred of the flight by the tasters. My score 18.5+/20
Montana ‘Terroir Series – Rail Bridge’ Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007
From the Awatere Valley, fruit from sheltered south-facing terraces on the Awatere River. Cooler region. Pale straw yellow with green hues. Steely and minerally nose, herbs and nettles, very tightly bound. Dry, this has gorgeous aromatic and floral fruit flavours, quite exotic, with steely mineral overtones. Crisp, intense and penetrating, this has great depth. Will hold and develop. Pipped to second place preference for the tasters. My score 19.0-/20
Flight Two: Chardonnay
The two labels of Chardonnay representing two sub-regions of Gisborne. With Chardonnay, winemaking differed to enhance the expression of the characteristics of the terroir. Was the winemaking sufficiently sensitive? And looking at the two wines across two vintages, was there a consistency of style for each label for each vintage. Our impressions were positive.
Montana ‘Terroir Series – Waihirere’ Gisborne Chardonnay 2005
13.5% alc, Clone 95 from the Ormond vineyard, a warmer site, WBP, some wild ferment, 26% new oak, 10% MLF. Straw yellow colour, some depth. Very intense and deep nose, great concentration of rich, mealy and tropical fruit aromas. A wine of real richness and power, beautifully creamy in texture, tropical and stonefruits, mealiness and nuts all show. The wine still retains balance and poise and a degree of finesse. Very long finish. The most preferred of the pair of Waihirere wines and the most preferred of the flight of four Chardonnays by the group of tasters. My score 19.0/20
Montana ‘Terroir Series – Waihirere’ Gisborne Chardonnay 2006
Brilliant straw yellow colour. Very fine and tightly bound nose, a little shy, with subtle nuances. A wine combining great richness with power on the palate, very intense and deep. Tropical fruits, pineapple, mealy. Still youthful and a little raw phenolic grip, but creamy textures. Oak shows, on the powerful long finish. Less preferred to the 2005 Waihirere, and least preferred overall for the group of tasters. My score 19.0+/20
Montana ‘Terroir Series – Stuart Block’ Gisborne Chardonnay 2005
13.9% alc, Mendoza clone from the Patutahi estate vineyard, a cooler, drier site. Inoculared yeasts, 26% new oak, 10% MLF. Deepish, darker yellow straw colour. Very fine and elegant nose, subtle stonefruit aromas, pure and concentrated, with real depth. Elegant palate, finely expressed, with citrus fruit and pineapple flavours, good nutty notes, some development showing. Linear to some tasters. Marginally second preferred over the third place wine and the 2006 vintage of Stuart Block by the tasters. My score 18.0/20
Montana ‘Terroir Series – Stuart Block’ Gisborne Chardonnay 2006
Brilliant straw yellow colour with green glints. Beautifully concentrated mealy nose with raw brackish nuances, minerals and stonefruits, real power and depth, and barrel ferment aromas. A cool note to the fruit. Fresh with excellent acidity and very minerally on palate. Tight and concentrated grapefruit flavours, nuts andoak notes. Very long. This has potential to develop well. Third preferred and second preferred Stuart Block by the group. My score 19.0/20
Flight Three: Gewurztraminer
A pair of Gewurztraminers from two sub-regions of Gisborne, distinctly different in style, the vinification kept constant between the two labels.
Montana ‘Terroir Series – McLoughlin Block’ Gisborne Gewurztraminer 2007
From the Patutahi region, clay soils. Pale straw yellow colour. Very fine, elegant ant tight nose with floras, rose petals and lifted aromas. Slightly sweet, this has excellent floral fruit flavours. Perfume and ginger spice elements, this has excellent acidity giving finesse and length. The lesser preferred of th
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Staff Recommendations
DAVID
Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.
MANN PINOT GRIS 09*
CH CARBONNEAU SEQUOIA 09
WEEPING SANDS SYRAH 10
RICHARD
Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
KUMEU RIVER CHARD 07
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KUMEU RIVER CHARD CODDINGTON 09
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Library Tasting: 1992 – 1994 Cabernet and Shiraz From Several Countries
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