By Raymond Chan
It is becoming apparent now that Riesling is the equal
favoured grape of Central Otago with Pinot
Noir. The growers and producers achieved
early success with the latter, but it has taken some time to attain the same
level of quality and respect with Riesling wines. However, the last few years has seen
parity. Mt Difficulty has a bevy of
Riesling and Pinot Noir labels and all, while very different in style and
expression, are of the highest quality.
This is very apt and fortuitous, as Mt Difficulty is, and is seen as an
international brand for Central Otago and New Zealand nowadays. Much of the credit can go to Matt Dicey,
general manager, winemaker and ambassador.
We were very pleased to have Matt present a tasting of his wines,
focussed on Riesling and Pinot Noir. His
insights and perspectives were particularly illuminating for attendees. My notes on the wines tasted follow:
Flight One: Pre-Taster
Pair
Two diverse wines to set the scene. Firstly the Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir Rosé 2009 (18.0-/20), at 14.0% alc, <2
g/L rs, 100% Pinot Noir from the Target Gully vineyard, given 4 days skin
contact and fermented in seasoned oak.
Bright, pale pink with purple hues, this had a dense and solid bouquet of
roses, red berry fruits and minerals.
Dry and full-bodied, nearly a light red in mouthfeel, this had ripe red
fruits allied to fresh and racy acidity, which gave a succulence to the
palate. A serious, but refreshing wine
that will drink well for 2-3 years. Then
the Mt Difficulty Pinot Gris 2009
(17.5+/20), at 14.0% alc and 4.3 g/L rs, fruit from five Bannockburn sites,
spending four months on lees. Pale straw
colour with some depth. This had an
excellently expressed nose of stonefruits, spices and smoke, quite rich. On palate a combination of unctuous textures
with steely raciness. Classical Central Otago in style.
One to drink in the next 4+ years.
Flight Two: Dry
Riesling and ‘Target Gully’ Riesling
These two styles are the core of Mt Difficulty’s Riesling
production. Here, both Dry Riesling and
the ‘Target Gully’ were compared across three vintages. The Dry Riesling spends more time on lees,
hence the slightly deeper and fuller colour.
Matt considers the Dry the more demanding to make, as "there is nowhere
to hide”. The sweetness of the ‘Target
Gully’ can cover deficiencies. 2003 was
an excellent vintage and the wines now show full maturity characters. The aromatics of both wines truly resonant
with richness. The Mt Difficulty Dry Riesling 2003 (18.5+/20), at 13.0% alc and 3 g/L
rs, fruit from the Long Gully vineyard.
Pale edged light golden yellow colour, this had glorious lime and toast
aromas with kero complexity. On palate
quite dense, softly textured and richly deep, this was braced with steely
acidity which gave elegance and length.
The Mt Difficulty ‘Target Gully’
Riesling 2003 (19.0+/20), at 11.5% alc and 20 g/L rs, fruit from the Target
Gully vineyard, was limpid light golden-green in colour, and possessed a
beautifully aromatic nose combining honey, toast and kero, with some
restraint. Medium sweet on palate, this
was texturally fine and soft, the palate one of elegance, and full of complex nuances
of honey, florals, lime fruit and toast.
Still very fresh with good acidity, this had great length. Both were drinking at their peak, and should
continue to do so for another 3-4 years.
The 2003s were the most popular pairing.
2005 was a cooler vintage with low yields. Matt felt these wines had not developed as
well as they might have. Certainly not
as rich and resonant as the 2003s, they did show some evolution and bottle-age,
as well as reduction. The Mt Difficulty Dry Riesling 2005 (17.5+/20),
at 13.0% alc was femented dry and the 7 g/L rs was achieved by back
blending. Pale edged light golden yellow
in colour, this had a beautiful toast, honey and floral amalgam on nose,
indicating ripe fruit. On palate a wine
a finesse, purity and cut, the acidity prominent, working well with good depth
and intensity of the fruit. Some
reductive notes, but not obtrusive. This
should still develop over the next 4-5 years.
Next was the Mt Difficulty
‘Target Gully’ Riesling 2005 (16.5/20), at 11.0% alc , fruit from the
Target Gully site, stop fermented at 32 g/L rs.
Brilliantly clear light golden in colour, this had savoury, nutty,
toast, kero and mineral notes clouded by some reduction on the bouquet. Medium sweet on palate, the honied fruit was
marred by the sulphides These were the
least popular pair.
The 2009 vintage was also a slightly cooler vintage with some
yield reduction. However, Matt felt that
his vinification approach to both styles was appropriate and now settled, and
the wines very much as he would like them.
First was the Mt Difficulty Dry Riesling
2009 (19.0/20), at 13.5% alc, fruit from the Long Gully vineyard, the 4.5
g/L rs achieved by back blending. Pale
straw yellow in colour, the bouquet was one of pristine purity of lime fruits,
florals and minerals. On palate, a wine
with exceptional concentration, depth and fruit extract providing body and fine
textures. The power and approachability
indicated drinkability for another 5-7 years.
More backward was the Mt
Difficulty ‘Target Gully’ Riesling 2009 (18.0+/20), at 9.5% alc, fruit from
the Target Gully site, stop fermented at 35 g/L rs. Very pale straw yellow in colour, this had
beautiful lime and floral aromas lifted with honey and exotic botrytis
nuances. Medium in sweetness, this was
still very tightly bound, but showed wonderful lime and honey flavours on
palate with very fine acid cut. This was
still shy, but the potential was very clear.
6-8 years ahead.
Flight Three: ‘Estate’ Pinot
Noir
A wonderful vertical presentation of Pinot Noir here. These were very expressive of vintage, and all
were in excellent condition. The wines
were tasted from oldest to youngest.
First was the Mt Difficulty Pinot
Noir 2002 (18.5-/20), at 14.5% alc, fruit from the Long Gully, Mansons
Farm, Target Gully and Pipeclay Terrace vineyards, a very small portion whole
bunch, 75% wild yeast fermentation, aged 11 months in barrel. Deep, even, garnet red in colour, this was
very full and soft on bouquet. Lovely
ripe red berry and plum aromas, still fresh, yet with excellent secondary,
savoury spice and cedar elements and a touch of port! On palate, full, ripe with dark berry and
savoury flavours, quite complex and with real interest, becoming integrated and
mellow. This is drinking well now and
should do so for another 2-4 years. 2002
was an excellent year with fully ripened fruit of low yields. Many commentators thought the wines would
fall over very early… From a cool, low yield harvest was the Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir 2005
(18.5-/20), at 13.8% alc, fruit from the company’s Bannockburn vineyards, a
little whole bunch included, 11 months in barrel. Light ruby red in colour with some garnet on
edge. Still very fresh and vibrant on
nose with red berry fruits and just a touch of secondary, mushroom
complexity. This was lively and fresh on
palate, the acidity marked. An elegant
wine in size, there was still good grip and structure