By Raymond Chan
It was indeed
a very special tasting of Mumm Champagne at Regional Wines on two counts. Firstly, attendees had the rare opportunity
of tasting vins clairs, the first fermented base wines used as the blending
options for Champagne. This was the
first time Mumm had conducted a tasting of vins clairs outside of their cellars
in Reims. And secondly the presence of
Didier Mariotti, the chef de caves of Champagne Mumm. It is not very often that a representative
directly involved with Champagne winemaking conducts a commercial presentation
– usually it is a marketing or ambassador person. Didier is notable as one of the youngest chef
de caves, and his reputation as one of the driving forces behind Mumm’s revival
over the last few years has given him great respect.
Owning 218
hectares of vineyards, Mumm is a significant Champagne player. These holdings provide Mumm with around 25%
of their requirements. That 160 ha are
classified Grand Cru means that Mumm has superb resource for top quality. Allied to this is the breadth of fruit supply
enabling flexibility in blending for continual consistency. Mumm has over 300 parcels of wine for use as
components to achieve this.
The tasting
consisted of two parts. Firstly the
tasting of six vins clairs, demonstrating source, style and variety as well as
age. Then a tasting of four finished
Mumm Champagnes that are currently available in New Zealand. Here are my notes:
Flight One: The Vins Clairs
Each harvest
produces fruit resulting in vins clairs of unique character. It is the skill in proportional blending of
these wines and that of reserve wines that results in the desired uniformity of
house style. Didier explained that his
preference was for wine with freshness and an austerity, enabling proper
development. Fermented in stainless
steel without any wood influence, without any residual sugar, the vins clairs
expressed the terroir and origin of the fruit with great clarity. The vins clairs tasted came from grand cru
villages and it was noted that each bottle was equivalent to around €180 in
value. Remarkably, the wines did not
seem as austere and acidic as anticipated – possibly because of our national
palate being familiar with high acid and minerally wine styles!
The initial
two wines were from the Cotes de Blancs.
First was an Avize Chardonnay
2009, pale in colour, very lifted in floral aromatics, and crisp, steely
and acidic with flavours of white flowers and minerals. This was based on freshness, acidity and
tension in a fine linear style. This was
seen as a very desirable base wine for the Mumm style. Next was a Cramant Chardonnay 2009, also pale straw in colour, fuller on nose
with riper fruits, quite fat and lush in comparison with the Avize wine, though
still with plenty of acidity. The fruit
expression was more generous and more exotic.
Due to the more forward nature of this wine, only a very small
proportion would be used.
Then two
wines from the Montagne de Reims. The
first was a Verzenay Pinot Noir 2009,
with NE facing aspect. Straw yellow with
a faint blush, this had a reticent nose, fine and steely. On palate, this was steely, crisp and tight,
with depth and very delicate berryish notes.
This village produces wines with white fruit character and a distinctive
bitterness. Seen as excellent blending
base wine material. Then a Bouzy Pinot Noir 2009, from south
facing slopes, this wine had a definite pink hue to the colour, soft, lifted
berry nose and a fuller, red-berry influenced palate, though still with good
acidity. Possessing power, structure and
generosity, only a very small proportion of this wine would be used in
blending.
Then two
older wines to demonstrate aging. First
was a Mumm ‘Cordon Rouge’ 2007 vin clair blend. This is based on the 2007 vintage with 25%
reserve wine from the previous four vintages, in the approximate proportions of
45% PN, 30% Ch and 25% PM. It spent two
years in s/s vats on fine lees. Straw
yellow with gold hues, this had an intense toastiness to the bouquet and on
palate. Crisp, slender and fine, the
acidity still definite, but more settled.
Tertiary aromas flavours of yellow fruits, dried fruits and honey were
seen, and the Pinot Noir influence came into play. This was followed by an Avize Chardonnay 2004, pale straw yellow with flinty, steely
Chablis-like aromatics and palate structure.
A wine with intensity and concentration, yet great elegance of
style. Quite remarkable and
demonstrating the longevity of the base wine from this village.
Flight Two: The Mumm Champagnes
Four finished
wines were presented. The Mumm ‘Mumm de Cramant’ NV (19.0+/20),
100% Chardonnay totally from Cramant, all from one vintage (not stated as aging
may be less than legal requirements, but this bottle 2002), bottled at 4.5
atmospheres, and 6 g/l rs. Brilliant pale straw yellow in colour, this had a
beautifully lifted and intense nose of white stonefruits, steel and
minerals. On palate, a soft, creaming
texture, and delicate florals, stonefruits and citrus, minerals and barest
toast notes. A wine of great presence,
harmony and finesse. 4,150 cases made. Next was the Mumm ‘Cordon Rouge’ Champagne NV (17.5/20), an approximate blend of
45% PN, 30% Ch and 25% PM, based on the 2006 vintage, 8 g/l rs. Pale straw yellow with green hues, this had a
soft, elegant nose with a lovely floral lift.
Dryish, and quite soft with fine mousse, there was good freshness and
acidity, though a little SO2 was noticeable. Light autolytic
yeast notes and florals with white stonefruit flavours all on a very
accessible, easy palate. The third wine
was the Mumm Champagne Millesime 1999
(18.5+/20), at 64% PN and 36% Ch, and 6.0 g/l rs. Straw yellow with some depth to the colour,
this had a fine, tight, toasty nose with excellent interest and intensity. Dry on palate, with fine mousse, this was
refreshing with good acidity underpinning the soft, almost succulent
palate. Flavours of toast, honey and
nuances of caramel were delightful, and the palate had a roundness and
harmony. An excellent Champagne
approaching drinking maturity. Final
wine was the Mumm ‘Cordon Rouge’
Champagne Rosé NV (17.5/20), made up of 85% ‘Cordon Rouge’ NV with 14%
still red wine from PN and PM and 1% still Chardonnay blended in,