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Wine Review

Mumm, Perrier-Jouet & Deutz - Champagne Elegance

By Raymond Chan
Our tasting in November 2005 of 18 Non-Vintage Champagnes highlighted the elegance of three houses that were all imported and distributed by Allied Domecq Wines. The opportunity of looking at all three houses in greater depth was too good to miss, especially with ADW’s Fine Wine Consultant Philip Bothwell taking us through the wines. The tasting did not disappoint, with the house styles of all three showing distinctively and differently. Being able to look at a range of the various styles, especially several of the ‘cuvee prestige’ wines was a feature. Following are brief notes on the houses and my tasting notes and scores on the wines tasted:

The Champagne Houses


Mumm, based in Reims, and owned by ADW, produces 625,000 cases a year of elegant, subtle and fine style, described by Champagne expert Tom Stevenson as “light, pure and fluffy”, which has found favour with the modern drinker of Champagne. Quality has returned over the last decade. It was a shame that we did not have the signature Cremant de Cramant in this tasting.

Perrier-Jouet, based in Epernay, has an annual production of 250,000 cases. Owned by ADW. Well-known for its Chardonnay influenced style, these well-respected Champagnes are “light, elegant, and true-blue brut in style with heaps of fruit” says Tom Stevenson. The two vintages of luxury cuvee ‘Belle Epoque’ and one of ‘Belle Epoque’ Rosé was a special feature of the tasting.

Deutz, from Ay-Champagne is a small producer with 75,000 cases annually. It is owned by Louis Roederer. Under-rated in New Zealand, the local Deutz Marlborough Cuvee making the marketing confusing and difficult. Tom Stevenson says “firm, flavour-packed wines of increasing finesse”. The Pinot Noir influence the strongest of the three houses.

The Non-Vintage Champagnes


Perrier-Jouet Champagne ‘Grand Brut’ NV
40% PN, 20% Ch, 40% PM. Straw yellow with a pale edge. Full nose with good depth and intensity, aromatic Chardonnay lift and balanced yeast autolysis. Dry, quite firm, tight and solid on entry, there is a soft concentration, with an elegance and finesse. Mousse is quite gentle. Subtle complexity from the autolysis. Soft, dry finish with length. Fine and subtle. The most preferred of the Non Vintage wines by the group. 18.0-/20

Mumm Champagne ‘Cordon Rouge’ Brut NV
75% PN, 25% Ch. Deepish straw yellow colour. Light on nose, very elegant, on the simple and plainer side of expression. Dry and very elegant, somewhat shy in expression. Fresh and crisp, with very good fine bubble, very attractive for it, but overall needs a little more depth and definition. My score 16.5+/20

Deutz Champagne ‘Brut Classic’ NV
38% PN, 30% Ch, 32% PM. Deepish straw yellow with pale edge. Absolutely textbook nose of Pinot Noir fruit and yeast autolysis. Tight and refined, with excellent depth. Dry, with excellent depth and concentration of flavour. Good Pinot Noir expression of body and depth. The mousse is settling, but the acidity is more than sufficient for freshness. Crisp, fine, and really quite elegant. Complexity of flavour from time on cork appearing. The second preferred wine of the flight by the tasters. 18.0+/20

The Major Champagne Style Variants


Mumm Champagne ‘Cordon Rosé NV
50% PN, 28% Ch, 22% PM, made by the addition of red wine. Pale pink colour, very pale edge. Very light and fresh, a delicate style with faint berryish fruit aromas, moderate depth. Dryish, with delicate, ripe berry flavours, slight muskiness, ripe and sweet fruited with a roundness on palate. Medium length. This bottle may have been slightly corked, the other more appreciated. 16.5+/20

Deutz Champagne ‘Blanc de Blancs’ 1996
100% Ch. Pale straw yellow with some depth. Fantastic purity of fruit, stunning intensity and depth, very fine and linear, outstanding elegance, and perfect yeast autolysis just adding the substance for complexity. Dry and exceptionally refined on palate. Beautifully fine mousse. Tightly bound, this will develop without any doubt. The beauty of the fruit is wonderfully balanced by the yeast autolysis. Sheer elegance and beauty. Classic stuff. 19.5/20

Mumm Champagne ‘Cordon Rouge’ Vintage 1998
75% PN, 25% Ch. Very even straw yellow colour. Deep nose with good intensity of quite rich and ripe fruit with an opulence. Dry, firm and a touch austere on palate entry, seeming hard, but softens through mid-palate. Good textures and body, but could do with a little more sweetness of fruit expression, Medium length. 17.0/20

The De-Luxe Cuvee Champagnes


Perrier-Jouet Champagne ‘Belle Epoque’ 1998
45% PN, 50% Ch, 5% PM. Bright straw yellow with some depth. Excellent Chardonnay aromatics, freshness and lift, great elegance on nose, quite youthful, an element of raw, undeniable potential. Dry, with lusciousness and richness superbly balanced by the refreshing effervescence of the mousse. Soft and approachable, fluffy even, but with very good depth. Rich and very long. Medium term bottle age only required to reach maturity. 18.5+/20

Perrier-Jouet Champagne ‘Belle Epoque’ 1996
45% PN, 50% Ch, 5% PM. Deepish straw yellow, lighter edge. Rich toasty complexity from bottle age, tight and dense on nose, but with finesse and great elegance, style and concentration. Dry, the depth is remarkable for its alliance with the Charonnay elegance. Fine and firm, there is real complexity from autolysis alongside the bottle development. The simultaneous richness and finesse is the great feature. The most preferred of the ‘Belle Epoque’ wines by the group. 19.0/20

Perrier-Jouet Champagne ‘Belle Epoque’ Rosé 1999
50% PN, 45% Ch, 5% PM, made by the addition of red wine. Very light salmon-pink colour, but quite definite. Fine and chardonnayish with freshness and lift, but also with a subtle berry fruit nuance. Restrained yeast autolysis, very youthful. Dry, tight and a little austere even, with light berry fruit flavours. A density and texture giving a fine backbone and concentration. Lovely balancing acidity. The finish is quite ethereal and beautiful, with the most gentle drying bitterness. 18.5/20

Deutz Champagne ‘Cuvee William Deutz’ 1998
60% PN, 30% Ch, 10% PM. Straw yellow colour, even and not that deep. Perfectly proportioned with finesse and subtlety of Pinot Noir fruit and refined, tight yeast autolysis. Quite fresh and with youthfulness. A little austere on palate entry, but the depth and concentration is outstanding. Fabulously fine Pinot expression with matching autolysis. Gorgeous textures, weight and body giving outstanding length. 19.0-/20
The Products...
DEUTZ FRENCH CLASSIC NV
Deutz French Classic Nv
Deutz Champagne ‘Brut Classic’ NV 38% PN, 30% Ch, 32% PM. Dee...
$82.15 750 MLS
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MUMM CORDON ROUGE NV
Mumm Cordon Rouge Nv
Mumm ‘Cordon Rouge’ Champagne NV (17.5/20), an approximate blend of 45% ...
$94.90 750 MLS
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PERRIER JOUET BRUT NV
Perrier Jouet Brut Nv
Perrier-Jouet Champagne ‘Grand Brut’ NV 40% PN, 20% Ch, 40% PM. Straw yello...
$99.75 sale! 750 MLS
More...
MUMM ROSE BRUT NV
Mumm Rose Brut Nv
Mumm ‘Cordon Rouge’ Champagne Rosé NV (17.5/20), made up ...
$99.50 750 MLS
More...

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Staff Recommendations

DAVID

Easter weekend I flew up to Auckland and had a great time visiting family. I made sure I went to Maison Vauron, a must if you enjoy French wines and also Galbraiths to try a few craft beers.

RICHARD

Roast Chicken for dinner evidently. Which Kumeu River Chardy shall I choose?
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