The harvest in 2010 marked 30 vintages of winemaking for Tim and Judy
Finn, who began Neudorf Vineyards by planting and grafting vines in 1978. Their wines have captured the quality from
the warm Nelson climate and clay Moutere soils, and now they are regarded as some
of this country’s very best. It was
appropriate that Tim and Judy, with their talented winemaker John Kavanagh
celebrate this milestone with a wonderful lunch at Martin Bosley’s for a number
of the Wellington
wine and hospitality trade today. The
meal Martin prepared and served was simply outstanding, and matched with a
stunning set of wines that Tim Judy and John had made. It was an occasion that will be talked about
for a long time!
The latest Neudorf Nelson Sauvignon
Blanc 2009 (18.0+/20) was served on arrival. As is their preferred style, it was tight,
restrained, very fine with limes, gooseberries, minerals and steel. It will open up and reveal plenty more over
the next 2 years. The Buttermilk and honey bread, whipped butter
and Marlborough
sea salt a good foil to take up and absorb the tension and vibrancy of the
wine.
Then straight on to the star wine, the Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay, with a four vintage vertical. The 2008
(19.0/20) was a magnificent wine for its youth.
Amazingly concentrated mealy aromas and flavours, with real richness,
depth and freshness. Potential plus
here. The 2004 (19.5/20) was showing the complexities of secondary
development, allied to the tightness and intensity of a wine that has just
started to approach its plateau. The 2002 (19.0-/20) was at the peak of its
expression, with marvelous toasty complexities and a fullness, whilst still
retaining an elegance. The 1999 (18.0+/20) was also full, quite soft
and rich with its breadth, a touch oxidative now. But the 1999 was particularly superb with the
Miso braised pork belly, crayfish and
white beans. This is truly great and
consistent Chardonnay, and has been for many years, as a recent 25 year
vertical tasting of this label has shown.
Served with snapper tartare, pea
ice cream, saffrom milk wafer and pickled potato salad were three vintages
of Neudorf Moutere Pinot Gris. Though only working with this varietal for
less than a decade, Neudorf has reached the class of the leaders. The 2009
(18.5+/20) wonderfully pure, intense, minerally and showcase fresh. The 2004
(18.0+/20) broader, with toasty richness, but still steely, finishing dry. And the 2001
(18.5/20) surprisingly fresh, but possessing an array of complex nuances. All three impressed with their liveliness and
acidity, and ability to work with the different components of the dish.
Three vintages of Neudorf Moutere
Riesling followed. This is in the
German spatlese style, around 9-9.5% alc and approximately 50 g/L rs. The 2009
(18.0+/20) was undeveloped, tight and almost raw, with its lime and acid
palate. However the concentration and
length were clues to its undoubted ability to improve. The 2005
(18.0/20) was also still tightly constructed, but the secondary toast notes
were pronounced. Some more time will see
greater integration and harmony.
However, the 2002 (19.0-/20)
was sensational with its broad, rich toast and kero expression, enriched with a
lusciousness along with balancing acidity.
Time is the friend for this wine, and it gets more glorious with age. Martin Bosley created an intricate and
complex dish that only Riesling could match in the grilled John Dory, spanner crab risotto, hot coconut panna cotta,
shellfish-XO sauce and lemon fragrance.
The final grouping of wines were four vintages of Neudorf Moutere Pinot Noir, matched to cocoa-dusted venison, black pudding-apple ravioli, truffled parsnip
puree, prune pudding, and beetroot-red wine reduction. The 2008
(18.0+/20) was beautifully supple, but still shy and restrained in fruit
aromas, the acidity indicating the youth of the wine. The 2005
(19.5-/20) was a wine of great finesse, elegance and incredible depth,
intensity and structure. A benchmark
wine that will live another decade easily.
Dark fruited, robust and a knock-out with its bold dark flavours and
sizeable structure was the 2003 (19.0/20),
a hit indeed. Another well-received wine
was the 2001 (18.5-/20), with its
forest floor complexities, silky development, richness and harmony. This flight showed the diversity and interest
possible with the variety, and why it is a favourite for winemaker and wine
drinker alike.
Petit fours capped off this
fabulous luncheon. And a toast was in
order, acknowledging the achievements of Tim and Judy Finn in their remarkable
winemaking endeavours. Well done, and we
wish you continued success in the future!
- Raymond Chan